Project Rust Belt 87'

[Irish_Alley]

Does the check engine light come on or any codes?
also check the o2 lines make sure they haven't melted or chafed seams like a problem I think also in the tank between the fuel pump and outlet is a rubber hose that sometimes brakes and will cause low fuel pressure don't think its a problem but it could be. Seams like to me the pump is working OK just something it telling it to shut off. My brother’s blazer kind of did that sometimes it would just die we would have to sit for a couple min and it would start right back up. I still don't think he fixed it lol been a couple years

[stavendirtbike]

Ended up doing some testing and so on and the Ignition Module was the culprit. Fuel pump was putting out proper pressures at all times. The ignition module was not sending reference pulses back to the ECM to allow for injector spray of fuel. So far so good, no stalling!

Will be tackling the flip kit/shackles this week! Stand by for results

[chevymotocross]

I was able to free the rear from the truck yesterday. The shocks came off easily, but as you can see in one of the photos here, someone welded in a washer on the bottom shock mount. I remember seeing a post or two, here, about these bottom shock mounts either breaking, or rusting out. Seems like a pretty strong weld, but I'll know where to look if my truck starts riding funny.

Next came removal of the u-bolts. These weren't budging at all. Applied some heat to the bolts/nuts and off they came! My father was convinced the leafspring eyelet bolts would not come out. Well the first one I attempted to remove came right off. I was so thrilled. Well, unfortunately that was the only leafspring bolt that came out. All the others, I had to cut. I included photos of what it looks like. I'm going to have to get them pressed out and order new bushings. Leafsprings are rusty but I see no need in replacing the entire springs.

I also removed the factory bumpstops. And cut the tailpipes since they won't clear the rear when it's flipped. I'm debating on keeping the tailpipes I have and just adapting to them, or, running new piping, mufflers back, and dumping them over the rear.

I'm at a standstill for now until I order the leafspring bushings. Once I get them pressed in, I can install the flip kit, and lowering shackles as well as the c-notch!





The only bolt that came out!

[stavendirtbike]

Today, I got those old leaf spring bushings out. I ordered the Energy Suspension leaf spring/shackle kit. They bushings went in perfect, great quality. I have extra bushings for the shackles since the Western Chassis drop shackles already came with bushings.

As I stated, only 1 darn leaf spring bolt came out, all the others I had to cut, so tomorrow, I will match up new bolts.

Tomorrow I will attempt to re-assemble..... this time lowered 6''!!! WooWoo!

[VileZambonie]

You should paint the leaves while they're out. Lookin good

[stavendirtbike]

Will be doing that early tomorrow with Zero Rust!

[chevymotocross]

Finally got around to installing the Western Chassis flip kit and drop shackles. In my post under "Projects/Builds, you will see I had to cut all the leaf spring eye bolts off, there fore I installed all new Energy Suspension bushings and grade 8 bolts.

I also got the Doetsch Nitro Slammer shocks with the kit since Sport Truck Direct seems to praise them. Well after reading some reviews here..... I wish I passed. Oh well, I'll have to see how they ride.

On the new WC Shackles, the bushing sleeve was too long. It would not allow install into the rear hanger, so, I shaved some of the sleeve off and they went in fine.

The flip brackets fit great. The supplied u-bolts are bigger than the axle tube, a bit too wide. I started a post a few weeks back about this on 67-72chevytrucks.com, and there was quite a bit of debate. I ended up using them. I did a test run around the neighborhood, and nothing came loose or shifted. I will re-torque tomorrow. If I were running a blown big block pushing serious HP, I would 100% opt for better fitting u-bolts.

I had some confusion about the bottom retaining plate. There are two holes on the western chassis plate, a center and an off center hole close to each other. The instuctions state: "Install the new u-bolts over the top of the axle and the retaining plate onto the bottom of the spring pack. The offset center pin hole should be forward to match with the leaf spring center pin".I test fitted it in the center hole and it didn't seem right. Fit much better on the offset hole. All the ubolts are spaced evenly, everything seems fine.

Also, WC instructions state to install the bottom shock bolts inwards. Well, as another member told me, this isn't too practical as it would require you to remove the flip kit brackets/ u-bolts to change shocks. So, I cheated an installed them outwards. The passenger side shock, since it's placed on the back side of the axle, needed some "adjustment". I had to shave down the shock nut, so I could slide the bolt through and tighten. All is good though!

When I lowered it back to the ground on the wheels, I couldn't believe how low it is. The spare tire is almost on the ground, well that could also be because of the front not being lowered yet.

The driveshaft angle is better than stock!

It was a nice feeling stepping into the truck with rockers/floor boards closer to earth And the front isn't even dropped yet!

I took it for a test ride around the neighborhood. Felt fine, even did a holeshot to make sure everything was tight In the pics, you will see the tailpipes hanging down extremely low. They are cut, just dangling there. I had to cut them due to the drop. What a difference in sound w/o tailpipes! I plan to dump the exhaust directly over the rear.

I notice the driver side Doetsch shock, makes an air swooshing noise when the suspension is compressed...... maybe this is one of the reasons for the poor reviews? I sure hope they aren't already blown! Is that what the air noise indicates?

All in all, it was a good experience. It wasn't just buy the kit and go. At least for me. To sum it up, I needed all new leaf spring/shackle bolts and bushings, had to shave the WC shackle sleeves, and had to modify the shock bolts to install.

[chevymotocross]

Install went great. With the use of an air grinder and sawzall, I was able to cut away quickly and neat. Took awhile to drill the holes. Passenger side brake line had to be moved out of the way but very minor. Funny how the bump stop takes up most of the c-notch clearance, I doubt the axle will get that close anyways but if I lowered it more, I would probably need a smaller bump stop.

I like how this notch is thick and wraps around the top of the frame. I applied zero rust of the frame area before putting the notch on. Looks like the notch plate will actually strengthen that thin area of the frame.

[VileZambonie]

I'm making a C-notch this week myself. So are you painting the whole frame?

[chevymotocross]

I'm making a C-notch this week myself. So are you painting the whole frame?

Absolutely! I will be getting to that tomorrow. Zero Rust the frame along with undercoating. After that, here is what's left:

-Front Suspension Drop via spindles/springs along with a replacement UCA that rotted out.
-Cab Corners
-Tailgate needs a tiny bit of rust repair on the bottom.
-Put the bed in primer along with all the repaired areas (cab corners, rockers, door, fenders, almost entire truck)
- Prep for paint, scuff up the non-repaired areas, strip down the truck of bumpers, lights, moldings etc
- Send to Maaco. Yes yes I know, but my father did a c10 over years ago. Had it painted a different color as well. As long as YOU prep it, the maaco paint isn't bad! Plus, it's a Daily Driver, not looking for perfection.
-Re-assemble/drive!

My goal is to complete by mid-July. I leave for Air Force training at the end of August so atleast that will give me a solid month of enjoyment before going away for 6 months. I'd like to get a car tent to protect it from the elements while I am away.

[stavendirtbike]

Painted the frame and axle today with Zero Rust. I left the ends of the frame un-painted since I have to repair those sections. Any ideas for spare tire relocation? It's not safe keeping it underneath with the truck this low. I guess my only options are to carry it in the bed or not at all.

[VileZambonie]

Nice progress and it looks much better. I would say carry it in the bed or keep fix a flat and get AAA

[beastie_3]

If you keep it in the bed, make sure you lock it up some how so no one rolls away with it.

But if you leave it at home, as well as the jack and lug nut wrench, you'll gain 5 HP. jk

[Captkaos]

Why is it not safe running it that low?  I would put it back under the truck.

[stavendirtbike]

Why is it not safe running it that low?  I would put it back under the truck.

That thing is slung LOW! No way I'm running that. A dip in the road and scrapeeee. Any weight I put in the bed and that thing is dragging.