Author Topic: which 700r4?  (Read 19065 times)

Offline Grim 82

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which 700r4?
« on: June 01, 2010, 04:57:58 PM »
I will be putting in a 700r4 to replace my SM465 (sm465 going for a different project) in my 82 K10. I have an 84 K10 with a bum 700r4 and I have an 88 suburban (thought it was an 87 until recently) with a 700r4. One of them is going in to be rebuilt and then I will install it. I read that the 87 & newer 700r4's are stronger than the older ones. Which of these 2 is a better candidate for the swap? I am unsure if the 88 is computer controlled.
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Offline VileZambonie

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2010, 04:59:20 PM »
Use the 88. The only difference is the VSS
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Offline Grim 82

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2010, 08:30:23 AM »
Cool, thanks! Before posting my question I asked the guy at the transmission shop, but I wanted your thoughts on this. I asked about wiring for the lockup, and he said that they can make them so that they lock up hydraulically, and then you don't need to run wires to it. Does that sound about right? I have read the boards here and it seems that everybody that has done a swap like this ran wires for the lockup. Is that preferred, or even possible?  Also he said that the 88 would shift harder than the older ones, but I don't see why it would make any difference if it's built and adjusted properly. I appreciate the help and expertise, as I know very little of automatic transmissions.
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Offline VileZambonie

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2010, 10:06:19 AM »
The TCC solenoid is electronic so you need 12v to energize it. You can control it hydraulically using electric pressure switches if that's what he meant otherwise I don't think he knows what he's telling you.
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Offline Grim 82

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2010, 11:48:55 AM »
Agreed. That just doesn't jive with everything that I've read here. For the money to get it rebuilt, and the work to swap everything else that goes along with it, I don't want to take any short cuts. I want it to work right. If I have the '88 rebuilt, what else will I need to take from that vehicle to make it work? The '88 is quite a ways away so when I get the trans I want to pull everything else I need at the same time. I have the complete '84 pickup sitting here locally to start salvaging parts from right away like the steering column, crossmember, t-case, etc.

Does it matter which flex plate I use?
Are the TV cables the same?
Will my starter work with the new flex plate?
Do I need to pull some existing wiring to put in the 82?
If so does it matter if its from the 84 or the 88?
Since the 88 has the VSS, what does that entail to make it work?
Does it matter which t-case I use (84 or 88)?
Sorry for all the questions, I am just quite unfamiliar with alot of this. I really appreciate the help.
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Offline VileZambonie

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2010, 04:27:21 PM »
Just do some research on the board here. You'll probably find more than all of your answers in greater detail.

Does it matter which flex plate I use?
Yes you need the flexplate for your engine application. One Piece and two piece rear main is different
Are the TV cables the same?
Yes they should be. If not they are compatible
Will my starter work with the new flex plate?
Yes
Do I need to pull some existing wiring to put in the 82?
If so does it matter if its from the 84 or the 88?
If you want the pigtail for the TCC Solenoid and the low vacuum switch
Since the 88 has the VSS, what does that entail to make it work?
You just might have to swap the speedo gear assemblyDoes it matter which t-case I use (84 or 88)?
Are they both NP208? If so use whichever one looks better.
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Offline Grim 82

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2010, 05:03:19 PM »
I am going to start collecting up all the parts tonight. ;D  Thanks for your help Vile
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Offline Grim 82

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2010, 10:42:27 AM »
Well I have the trans, t-case, steering column & related wiring pulled and have my original column out. I tried a different trans shop and this guy puts corvette servos, etc. into each 700 he builds, and a bunch of other things that I don't fully understand. This build will include a new converter and lock-up wiring kit with a pigtail to connect to the existing wiring, and an additional cooler and temp gauge. I have the vacuum switch from the donor truck. Any suggestions on an additional shift kit or anything else to consider before I take it to the shop?
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Offline VileZambonie

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2010, 04:41:11 PM »
Where are you located? Have him check the sunshell thoroughly. The servo applies the band. The servo upgrade provides a positive engagement and disengagement of the band. You will also notice a firmer 1-2 shift. Transgo makes a nice 700R4 reprogramming kit that helps eliminate all of the bugs the 700R4 was plagued with.
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Offline Grim 82

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #9 on: June 08, 2010, 09:14:59 AM »
Fargo, ND. I got the auto column installed last night and hooked up the switch that goes to the brake pedal from the trans harness. Still have to hook up the dimmer and intermittent wipers, but the truck runs again. On the low vacuum switch on the firewall, does it just need to be plugged into a manifold vacuum source? It was not plugged in on the donor truck. Thanks for the help
« Last Edit: June 08, 2010, 10:44:14 AM by Grim 82 »
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Offline VileZambonie

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #10 on: June 08, 2010, 03:02:37 PM »
Yes, manifold vacuum
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Offline Grim 82

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #11 on: June 14, 2010, 03:35:10 PM »
It's getting a new hardened steel sunshell and the transgo kit. I should have it back early next week. ;D I stripped down the 84 too and compared the 2 flex plates. The 84 and 88 are different so one of them should be the match to replace my flywheel.
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Offline HAULIN IT

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #12 on: June 14, 2010, 05:03:00 PM »
I asked about wiring for the lockup, and he said that they can make them so that they lock up hydraulically, and then you don't need to run wires to it.

 From Transmission Center:
#12LU. 700-R4 Hydraulic Lock-up Package, works on 1982 to 1989 valve bodies only. The Fairbanks hydraulic lock-up package allows you to engage lock-up automatically without the computer. Non-toggle switch activated, it comes with 5 custom calibrated springs so you can vary the point at which your torque converter actually locks-up. Cost $69.00

 I found through some researching GM used these years ago as a solution to in & out lockup "hunting" on some models. There is a GM part number for a kit, I believe it only has four springs. I bought it before I swapped to the 4L60e, but never tried it so I have no input as to how well it works.
 Vile, This setup eliminates the TCC.  Lorne

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #13 on: June 14, 2010, 07:28:05 PM »
You mean it eliminates the tcc solenoid right? The earliest design lock up converters were fully hydraulic non electrictronic but everyone hated them. I wouldn't recommend a non electronically controlled tcc but that's just my opinion. The in and out lock up was easily corrected with the modified PR valve and tv boost valve.
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Offline HAULIN IT

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Re: which 700r4?
« Reply #14 on: June 15, 2010, 09:39:00 PM »
Yes, Vile that is correct...I knew what I was thinking & just quit typing I guess. Lorne