auto to 5spd problems

[VileZambonie]

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.

Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.

Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.

Remove the reservoir cap.

Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.

Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.

Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.

Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.

Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.

Refill the reservoir to the proper level.

Repeat Steps 6 and 7.

If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.

The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.

Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).

Add additional fluid if needed.

Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.

[Blue 81 C-10]

That procedure is pretty much what I have done. Last nite I was able to find some small clear tubing & jamb it into the bleed valve end and route it back up to the master cyl. thus creating a loop for the fluid. I did get a few bubbles out but still cannot shift. I may try it again but I don't really expect a different outcome. Any other ideas?

[Blue 81 C-10]

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that with that vacuum method I figured "more was better" so pulled it down to 25"hg which my brother convinced me was pulling air in past the o-ring on the quick connect on the slave cyl. I have now pulled & replaced this transmission 5 times trying different "fixes", no luck yet. Any more ideas?

[VileZambonie]

Try chocking the front wheels. Jack up the back of the truck as high as you possibly can and support it on stands. Try bleeding it now.

[Blue 81 C-10]

Well I thought I'd let you know that after removing the seat and lying on the floorboard so I could better observe the master cyl. stroke I removed the clutch pedal and lowered the connection point with a new drilled and tapped hole in the pedal which gave it more stroke and finally fixed my problem. My clutch disengages fine now. You were on the right track early on so thanks for your advice.

[VileZambonie]

Glad you got it working

[Blue 81 C-10]

I had to remove the brake booster to mount the clutch master cyl. There isn't room for both. What all do I need to change out to go to manual brakes?

[Captkaos]

you DO NOT want to do this....  85-up trucks used a hydraulic setup that mounts with the stock booster.  Why don't you use it?

[Blue 81 C-10]

I wish I could but from what I can tell the 85-87 used the same booster (JB3) that I have but with a different clutch master. Later model boosters were different and might be a bit smaller. The problem is the location of my 96 clutch master and that it has to go there since it goes with the transmission/slave & I don't see any way to change any of that. Do you know if a later brake booster (88-93ħ) will work? Or maybe the JB5 from the early model might even fit, I don't know.