Author Topic: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)  (Read 27883 times)

Offline screamin86

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #15 on: August 30, 2010, 11:38:05 pm »
looks great keep up with the updates :)
86 k10 lwb 4x4:350 .040 214/224 444/466 112lsa performer rpm 1406 lt's summit racing th350 2800stall
03 yukon xl:tint debadge full boltons
86 ta:lm7 hot cam boltons

Offline Altec

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #16 on: August 31, 2010, 10:27:34 am »
Nice. What is the switch for?


Lock up converter. The old truck had a 700R4 in it.

Thanks screamin!
1981 K10 Short Bread - 6.5NA - SM465

Offline Altec

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #17 on: April 11, 2011, 11:13:51 pm »
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The block is a 3970010. Common as the sky is blue. But a good block, and since it is a fresh rebuild, a good choice. It is loaded with flat top pistons, and 333882 heads. Although the heads are pointless to me because I believe the driver side one is cracked. But I have another set laying around I can use! From what I read, they are prone to cracking. I find it strange that a head on a fresh rebuild would be cracked? Better not to ask questions though.

Ain't that pretty?


The 487's.


And, here is the best part! I almost pooped myself seeing this. I pulled the oil pan off. After having a "Duh" moment, I slowly counted the main bolts. 1...2...oh dang...3...4... YES!!!
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Got the heads bolted on.

Started by digging out my Dad's books on the subject. I looked up the tightening pattern, and what to torque the bolts to.





So, after that I started cleaning things up. Pretty simple. A scrapper, and a scotch bright pad did the trick.


Then the heads.


Stick the gaskets on.


Then I dug the bolts out. Tip? Don't just throw bolts in a cardboard box. PITA... The bolts on a Small Block are simple. 8 short bolts, 2 medium, and 7 long. The short ones go on the bottom, the medium ones go on the inside outer edges. The long ones go on the inside center. Try not to mix them up...



I cleaned the threads. Nothing amazing.


Finally I put the heads on. Line the dowel pins up, and they should go right in place. After that I start all the bolts and run them down until they just touch. Then we get to torquing. Using a 1/2" drive torque wrench I got to work. I started at 40 ft-lbs. Then 50, then 60, then to the final setting of 65.


So, that is where I'm at. I may go out later, and get the lifters, and rods in.

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Well, I got the lifters in, and my Dad showed me how to set the rockers.

If that ain't art, I don't know what is.


Dug out some parts. A fancy starter, and the accessory setup from a 4.3. The truck it was from only have about 40K on it, so I got some nice parts I think. I even have the water pump.




I left the other bracket outside, so it has some oxide on it. :whine: Hopefully I can clean it up.

Went to the store and got some intake gaskets, and paint. I tell the guy I have a Chevy Pickup with a tree-fitty. What does he do? Picks a C10... I about pulled him over the counter! Ok, not really... I just wanted my gaskets. :lol:


So, gotta clean the block a bit, and I can paint it.

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Well, nothing really amazing yesterday. Cleaned the oil pan, got the new oil pump installed, and got the pan installed. Then I cleaned some of the grease off the engine.






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No real update. Other then I need to get some fuel for the shop heater. Don't know how many more 35* work hours I have left in me...

My new water temp gauge came. I thought it was going to be a electric one, but I guess I lucked out!





Next time I won't cut the probe without paying attention. Guess that is why they call it that. Pay then, so you don't pay later...

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Thank you. Still got some more work on that front.

Nothing amazing. Painted the engine. I'm hopefully going to get the intake on tomorrow. Along with the accessory brackets, and the water pump. Gotta do some slight tweaking to the block for the water pump to work. Being a newer style one.


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That was my thought. The old MTR's were mean sum' bishes!

Worked on swapping my steering arms a bit. See, I kept thinking I had to buy one. Then it hit me the other day. "I wonder if that dana 44 I have has one?" Yep... So I went to pulling that off. Was able to get one lock out the first day. Soaking it in oil, and left it. After reading some tricks on here, I went back at it today. A broken hammer, and some large hand tools later I had it off. Gotta pull the one off my 10-bolt now... Hoping that goes a little easier. HAHA!

Thread in question. I used the trick with the socket over the lock. guess it worked.
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=196081

How I found it today.


After using the socket, and giving it a couple whacks.


Now you see it...


Now you don't.


YAY!


Whew...


Now I gotta pull the other one off.

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Well, went out to pull the arm off the 10-bolt. Put the jack, and a stand under it. Popped the tire off, and went at it. Broke the second hammer. Now I'm gonna have to get another hammer. Might try the 10 pound sledge tomorrow if I cant get one.


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Got the steering arm on. I took a file to the threads to knock down the fudged part. Ideal? No... Work? Yep. Stuck the arm on, and cleaned the washers to stick on. Tightened them down by hitting the arm, then tightening some. repeat until tight. Now I have a factory steering arm to use as a door stop, or something...





While I was at it I grabbed the link to check the size of the tie rods to order boots. Ran into a problem. The longer of the two tie rods is worn out. :dohh: So I looked up the part number. I believe it is a ES2026R. If anyone would like to confirm, or correct this I'd be appreciative.

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Cleaned up, and installed the intake. Although I think I'm going to pull it back off tomorrow. Couple things I want to change, but ran out of time. So tomorrow I'm gonna do that, then clean the Holley up, and maybe try and line up the dizzy.

The Intake/Carb. It's a Weiand #7508 single plane, and a Holley Double Pumper.


Carb unbolted.


After a bath in the wash up tank.


Vroom! Vroom!

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MAIL!!!!


New tie rod.


Dust boots.


I pulled the intake back off. For the sake of maybe helping someone else not pull a stupid like I did I'll tell why I pulled it back off. I didn't put RTV around the water jackets...


Back on... Also got the main pulley cleaned up, and installed.


Later I have a couple thermostats I dug out the spares pile to test. I have a 160, and a 180. Hoping the 160 is good. If so, that is going on.

Also, I have a radio I need to test. I have a factory CD player from a new Silverado I've been saving. I'm gonna test it and see if it'll work without the computer BS. If it will, then I might mount the giant thing in my truck. Freaking thing is like 2.5 din...

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Thanks! :)

Well, I didn't get everything I wanted done today, oh well.

Tested the thermostat. Checked out good. Messy stove not required, just recommended.


The parts.


Installed. Well... dang.


Fuel pump installed.


Chasing the threads for the accessories.


Drive side bracket installed, passenger mocked up.


AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!! Need a different housing...


Got the pedal-tunnel-thing in the truck and drilled the two holes I needed in it. Now I need to grind off the old studs that are spot welded in.

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Been cleaning today, but have gotten a couple minutes to swap out the tie rod.

First I measured a common point on the tie rod (Center of the grease zirk) to the edge of the turn-buckle. Which believe it or not was exactly 6.5".

So after I knew that I put the old tie rod in the vice and loosened the clamps. Then took a flat blade driver to break the tube free. Using a chain wrench I spun the clamp off. Even the weight of a freaking firetruck brake drum I was moving the vice all over the place... Looked like I was dancing with it.


Got it though. Then the new one went on, set, and locked down.



Through some flat black on it. Gonna get Hammered paint when on the truck. Just didn't want to worry about rust...


PRETTY!!!!



edit,

Posting this as a note for myself. Decided on a course of action for the rear. Gonna hose the U-bolt on the donor for a week, then take a impact and try to get them off. After I get the axle out I am going to pull the cover and make sure it is good to go. Then I'm going to rip the brakes apart and clean everything up. I am going to replace the brake cylinders, and put a set of pads on. Then put the cover back on, fill it, and clean/paint it.

Need to order a set of leaf spring bushings as well. I want to have it all ready so when the axle is done I can transfer the leaf springs to it, and bolt it up for the final time.

I'm keeping the current front axle and pulling the gears from the donor truck. As well the donor has a nice set of WARN manual hubs. Do that and clean up the rotors. Top them with new calipers, and pads. Can you tell I'm worried about brakes? I don't want to build something I wouldn't feel comfortable having anyone drive...
1981 K10 Short Bread - 6.5NA - SM465

Offline Altec

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #18 on: April 11, 2011, 11:14:20 pm »
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I hit two pages! Woot!

Been cleaning all day, haven't had time for the truck. I looked out the window at the sun setting, and said screw it. Walked outside and put the link on! Got the steering arm coated in a bit of black, and stuck it on. The new rod tightened fine, but the back one just spun. So I just have to take a board a put pressure on the link and tighten it. That will have to happen later though.

The boots fit good. After getting crushed down they take a shape more like the factory and fit good. Hoping they hold up. I'll have to do a review later.



Also I priced the parts to do the rear brakes. $10 a piece for cylinders, and $20 for shoes.

Quote
Hello all! Isn't it a beautiful day in the neighborhood? Over 80* today! Got quite a few things done! In between working on my junk, I was out with the battery charger jump starting some junk to move around. Was quite fun.

My main reason was I wanted to wrap up some loose ends on my engine. That means tapping some holes, replacing a water neck, and getting a pilot bushing. I also wanted to clean my bell housing.

Now first I started with drilling, and tapping the head. Found the tap, and the drill.First I realized my drill bit is to short to fit through the bracket. Crap... WAIT!!! I have a bracket from a '91 'burban that might work. So I dug that out and it was perfect! So I bolted that on and used it to mark the spot with the drill.


Marked.


I measured the depth of the hole on the other side, and used tape to mark the drill.


Done! Well, sorta. What you don't see is that I drilled into the water jacket... Guess the casting right there is thinner... After drilling the hole I used a larger bit to make the tap start easier. Then just tapped it using a 3/8"-16 tap.


Since I'm using a late model water pump, I had to drill and tap one of the ports. Sadly, a 1/8NPT tap was just slightly too small. So I had to drill it out, and use a 1/4NPT tap. No biggy.


Started cleaning the bell housing. Found blue paint under the grease. fudge. So instead of cleaning it up to something I'd eat cereal out of, I'm going going to clean it to DD status.


DIE!!!


And my very cool Dad picked me up flywheel bolts, and a pilot bushing on his way home from work today.


Edit,

Forgot something. I crawled under the truck while having my Fiancee watching the tire while I spun the pinion. Stuff not 100% sure, but I'm thinkin' the front might already have 3.42 gears. If that is the case, then that means I don't have to change the front gears!

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Flywheel, and pressure plate cleaned up. Just knocked the junk off the flywheel face, and degunked the pressure plate. Then sat the pressure plate on top of the flywheel to cover the clutch contact areas, and coated them both with a rust treatment at the same time. Dug up some bolts, and washers for them as well. Only half dry in the picture if you are wondering...


I was also looking at the transmission figuring out how I am going to get it out from under the bench, and I saw a little pitcher. Grabbed it, and it had the tranny-bell housing bolts, flywheel-crank bolts, dust shield bolts, and flywheel pressure plate bolts. The key words here are flywheel-crank bolts... Guess I'll save the new ones...

One dust cover bolt is missing...

"GM P/N'S 12453934, 14047045, 15521863, 15616191, 384024 & 3906680............AFTERMARKET P/N'S 04-518, 04-064 & 04-064A"

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ot the 350 off the stand, and the 6.5 on today. Plus knocked in the pilot bushing, and was going to assemble the entire clutch assembly and bell housing but I couldn't find any loctite, so I just gave up...

Rolled out so I could clean my work area.


On the floor.


No longer on the floor...


Bushing in.


Bell housing mocked into place because I felt like it...

Quote
Hoping to do two updates today.

Got the transmission drug out, and half cleaned up yesterday. Forgot to take a before picture. Ton of grease, none of it is from the transmission...



My Dad picked me up some shorty chrome valve covers yesterday!


And today my leaf spring bushings showed up! Won them on Ebay. The entire front set is there, and I think the others are the rears minus the shackles?




Part two of today will be this evening...

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Well, I figured the transmission would work better bolted to the engine, so I did that. :uhmk: Hoping to drop the whole assembly in this weekend.

Together, and the engine mounts on. Also dug out the tranny crossmember, and the bushings for it.


gonna wait to put the new fancy valve covers on after the engine is in the truck. Don't want to scratch them up!

Quote
Update for today!

Truck in the shop...


Pulled the cover off the top of the master to drain the fluid that was stuck in it. I don't think it should look like that...


I took the motor mounts back off and painted them. Wasn't happy with the material chipped paint look...


After much hard ache the engine is in with the help of my Dad, and a friend of his, Shawn. The clam shell mounts put up a heck of a fight... I WILL be getting rid of those come time for the diesel...


Stuck the tranny mount in. Need to get a bushing.


Not pictured is I cleaned the threads for the bell crank ball-pivot-thing on the bell housing. Then installed the transfer case.

Dug through my Dad's drive shaft collection for the front, and rear. After getting burned on a front shaft for his K10 my Dad started to collect them... I lucked out and found a rear that would work with no mods!


Before de-rusting...


After de-rusting, and cleaning the surface I just just some gloss black on it.


The front is going to need a proper degreasing... All the oil, and grease on the front shaft I understand is from the vehicles built in anti-rust system... :lol:

Also looked at the bushings. I do believe they are the right ones. Wasn't sure if my lift springs were close enough to a Rancho to work...

Quote
Went back out for some messing around.

Here is the hole for the shifter. Was done quick with a cut off wheel...


The boot I plan to use. Just because it is cool... I have a factory one as well, but the Hurst one just adds more horsepower! Haha. Wouldn't mind getting this shift knob to go with it, but the only problem is I'm trying to get my Fiancee in a position where she can not complain about driving a manual, and not having the marks on the knob could be a excuse...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CUSTOM-HURST-CHEVY-OLDS-442-CAMARO-CHEVELLE-SHIFT-KNOB-/260766058407?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb6de47a7


Put mah new valve covers on. Not bad!



Quote
Todays update!

Did some work on the clutch.

Got the bell crank on. My engine, and transmission is cocked a bit so the ball isn't fully seated... Trying to take good pictures, since find mechanical clutch pedal conversion pictures on the internet is heck.




I modded a transfer case shift linkage to act as the bell crank to clutch fork linkage.






Next step involved a little machine work. I turned a new set of pedal bushings on the lathe. Measuring the bore of the pedal, and measuring the OD of the rod I'm using. The pedal is roughly 11/16". i made it roughly .690" for a press fit. The hole for the rod is 29/64" I do believe.






Next step is the rod. I made it long enough to add some spacers, and maybe a brace. It is a simple 7/16" steel rod. I drilled a hole in each end, and has a pin going through it.


Girly painted the pedals for me! Thanks babe!


Mocked in the truck.



Next I painted the alternator bracket.


To get the power steering pump off you HAVE to remove the pulley. Which you need a special puller to do...


Off.


Painted, and on.


Plenty of clearance! Haha!


edit,

Couple videos of the bushing fit.

YouTube        - Chevrolet K10 Custom Pedal Bushing

YouTube        - Chevrolet K10 Custom Pedal Bushing 2
1981 K10 Short Bread - 6.5NA - SM465

Offline Altec

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #19 on: April 12, 2011, 06:09:31 pm »
Sorry about the triple post.

Slow day...

Changed the water neck.




Then I worked on the clutch some. Cut the hole for the linkage. The hole in the first picture was to smal FYI. I used a cut off wheel. Tried a hole saw and just made a fool out of myself...








1981 K10 Short Bread - 6.5NA - SM465

Offline Altec

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #20 on: April 15, 2011, 12:31:04 am »
Got the old front leaf bushings out. I used the technique of drilling a ton of holes, and ripping the outer pieces off. Then taking pliers on the inner tube and wrenched it out. The other half just fell off... Before I can install the new ones I need to get some sort of sanding bit for either my dremel, or die grinder to clean the inside of the holes of rust. To much crap doesn't allow the bushings to fit right...





Then picked up some gaskets, and bolts for the headers, along with ordering a tranny mount.



Got the AIR tubes cut off one of the headers. Need to grind them down now. Also cut the other one lol.


The tranny mount was in today.


And I cleaned the springs to install the front bushings. Need to get a couple mounting bolts...


I went out and dug the bolts out for the front drive shaft, and cleaned it. One of the holes on the axle yoke was fudged up, so I had to chase it...


Tomorrow I'm going to try and get the cursed brake booster hooked up... I swear I will never modify another pedal tunnel, or adapt a brake booster ever again. It just isn't worth the hassle... It would have been worth the money to buy a factory pedal assembly, and to dig up a hydro booster...

Also hoping to get the other header cut, and grind them both down. Think I might try and see if the headers will fit in the blasting cabinet. :lol: Also need to price some V band clamps. One of the flanges is bent, and it couldn't hurt to upgrade for the right price...
1981 K10 Short Bread - 6.5NA - SM465

Offline Grim 82

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #21 on: April 15, 2011, 11:39:53 am »
Good progress. Looks like you got it already but for cleaning inside of steel tubes like those leaf spring eyes, I made a bit that chucks up in a 1/4" arbor die grinder that works well. Take a piece of 1/4" steel rod and make a cut in the end of it about an inch long with a hacksaw, making a split in the end, and then fold a strip of emery cloth in half, slide into the split end, and tap it together with a hammer to pinch the emery cloth. Make sure to put it in the piece before you spin it up or it will launch on you though.
Give a man a gun, and he might rob a bank. Give a man a bank, and he might rob the world.

Offline Altec

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #22 on: April 15, 2011, 01:02:53 pm »
I tried all of the more kind ways. I ended up using the die grinder with a bur bit. The built up crap in the eyes was just amazing... Thanks for the advice though!
1981 K10 Short Bread - 6.5NA - SM465

Offline Altec

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2011, 11:02:44 pm »
Hello all! Fiddled around. I spent most of the day battling with the pedals...

Messing with the pedal I figured out a couple things. Before I get into that a little back story. hydro booster linkage for whatever reason will not line up with the pedal... So first I tried shimming the booster to angle it. No go... So next I decide to pull the pedal out to get a better look. I notice there is in fact two holes in the pedal. One roughly a inch above the hole that has the mount for the factory linkage. Out of curiosity I put the pedal back in and stuck a bolt through the hole into the linkage. Before I get ahead of myself moving the linkage mounting point up makes the pedal travel further... Bad in most cases. So then I pressed the pedal as far as it would go and measured a common point on the fire wall to the pedal. After this I went out to my donor truck and also pressed the pedal all of the way and measured. Wouldn't you know that the pedal travel was roughly 1/2" FURTHER on the donor which has a factory vacuum booster. So I can only guess the factory hydro booster has a different travel then the vacuum booster? I really have no idea. If anyone has any insight I wouldn't mind! The booster is from a 1995 Vandura. Stupid me didn't grab the pedal from the van so I can't measure the throw on that.

Nothing really picture worthy there...

Found a couple heims I think I am going to use to make a new clutch pedal to bell crank rod.


Pulled the old center console piece out of the donor. It won't clear the manual though so I'm probably going to cut it.


I randomly stuck a set of new style center caps on my Outlaw wheels. Doesn't look to shabby! Thinking I might pick up a set of lug nuts to try them. I figured out you can get them in standard sizes. They are known as "Dual Thread" lug nuts.


Also, got to go get the right u-Joint tomorrow (Today). I bought the wrong one before... I figured out I need a Neapco 3-3130... Trying to adapt a random drive shaft isn't always fun... Still better then chopping up a factory shaft...
1981 K10 Short Bread - 6.5NA - SM465

Offline Altec

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #24 on: April 16, 2011, 08:24:25 pm »
Rear drive shaft in. Don't worry, the yoke is long as heck... Plenty still inside the case.


The right U-Joint was a 3130. It has a large cap 1330 on one side, and a 1310 on the other.


Also got the bolts for the leaf springs. Grade-8 9/16" bolts.




Not pictured is one header ground down, and the clutch bell crank bracket holes slotted.

Rainy day... The brake pedal is going to be the death of me...
1981 K10 Short Bread - 6.5NA - SM465

Offline sonicbluezx3

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #25 on: September 10, 2011, 05:38:03 pm »
So any updates??
1986 Chevy K10 w/ 1983 Cab, 1984 Bed, 1987 Doors and a 6.2 Diesel Swap w/ 700R4 Trans. Truck body completely re-done between 2010 and 2012.

Offline big bear

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Re: 198-Everything K10 Diesel Project (Bunch of pictures!)
« Reply #26 on: September 10, 2011, 06:38:07 pm »
great project