A few questions on timing and valve lash.

[C10 guy]

    OK fist post here and first time ever needing help with my c10, lately I'm just at a loss. OK its a 79 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 6inch lift and 35s. i bought the motor rebuilt from a crashed 83 el Camino. the car was a mess but motor was sound, with less then 3000 miles on the rebuild. she ran for about a year after i dropped it in but i slowly stop driving her and now she has sat for over a year. at the moment i can get her to turn on but she is not happy, i had to retard the timing way bad to get it to fire. if i set the timing to -4 as it calls for it barely runs and once the key is turned off it will continue to run unless i choke the carb to kill her. second a buddy and i had a few to many to drink one afternoon and decided to do a valve job cause it sounded like it needed one. after that all my issues started, Ive tried and tried to get the valves adjusted right, everything from tdc on compression stroke adjusting x number of valves based off of pushrod play to cutting open a set of valve covers and doing it while shes running. i just don't know what to do n e more. n e advice n e one, or even where i should start? i wanna get her running by Monday if at all possible.

[Lt.Del]

a buddy and i had a few to many to drink one afternoon and decided to do a valve job cause it sounded like it needed one.

funny how things sound after a few too many.  Don't listen to the clothes washing machine after a few too many, your wife might get mad.

[zieg85]

I hope you had fresh gas in it after the year it sat.  Sounds like the symptoms of old gas to me.... My $.02

[C10 guy]

you know never thought about the gas! wow cant believe i over looked it. I'm thinking back and the gas in my fuel filter looked good as knew, and i think thats why i didn't think about it.

[VileZambonie]

C10 guy - PG langauge here please.

Where did you get that it calls for 4° Retarded ignition timing? When you did the valve job what exactly did you do? Recheck the firing order, adjust the valves with the engine off, reset your timing. If it still runs poorly o a compression test. If it's bad gas you'll be able to smell it.

[C10 guy]

Um what language if you don't mind my asking?

as for the valve lash i turned the motor to tdc on the compression stroke and adjusted 1348 exhaust and 1257 intake. then turned the motor a full turn and did 2567 exhaust and 3468 intake. on each one i tightened them till the pushroad stopped spinning and turned em a half turn tighter. after this i turned the motor one final time and re dropped the distributor facing number one. replaced my plugs following 18436572 order. upon trying to start her she wouldn't fire. i then loosened all the rockers a 1/4 turn and was able to get her to fire. on my truck engine bay it called for +4 degrees. this didn't work so i went off that the motor was an 80 - 85 block based off the stamp on the block. auto zone said it called for a -4 degrees still didn't work. in order to get her to run some what decent and turn off when i turned the key i had to retard the timing way way back.

I was also told the bolts on the rockers are meant for one time use only and should be replaced upon any adjustment. is this correct? I also pulled out most of my rods and ran them over glass and they all seem straight, a few were in question but nothing i felt was bad at the moment.

[VileZambonie]

Common mistake people make because it's printed in every chilton's out there. Tighten the rocker arm nut until there is no movement up and down. You could have the lifter fully depressed before the pushrod stops spinning. Also that technique works fine for stock cams but if you are running an aggressive cam profile adjust it to zero lash on the base circle of the cam + 1 full turn (with stock rocker arms)

Um what language if you don't mind my asking?

Repeating it here would defeat the purpose of editing it out. If you forgot what you wrote PM me.

[C10 guy]

To my best of knowledge the cam is stock. So what would you suggest as I'm out of ideas, should i go back with the same technique and re due the valves? or is there another way to do it?

as for timing, where should it be at? Ive always set it by ear as Ive didn't have a timing light, i since then now have one. where should i set it?

[VileZambonie]

Try adjusting the valves like this. #1cylinder TDCC adjust the intake and exhaust valves to zero lash by moving the pushrod up and down rather than spinning it. Check to make sure none are bent while you're in there. From zero lash go an additional one full turn. Rotat the crank clockwise 90° and repeat the same steps to #8, and keep repeating this in the firing order turniong the crank 1/4 turn after each adjustment... 18436572 don't drink beer when you do it either.

Make sure the TDC mark is accurate as well.

[C10 guy]

ok thx ill give it a shot in a few. also any ideas on timing? and or what degree it should be at?

[VileZambonie]

got a timing light?

[C10 guy]

So it just so happens my neighbor is a mechanic for a living, once or twice i asked to borrow a tool but other then that we never speak just the friendly neighbor wave that one only gives because you happen to share the same tiny piece of geological space. nevertheless he came over and said "u need some help" i wont bore you with our conversation but he did tell me 2 of my valves were to tight, he also said tappet covers  (a word i don't even know how to spell) so i know he was old school. he adjusted my valves with the motor running hit it with my timing light and said its -40 not -4 degrees helped me adjust the carb and man she is puring like a dream!
all in all i wanted to thank VileZambonie for the words of wisdom you gave me and everyone else's $0.02.