Ruined my ebay flipkit today while racing.

[VileZambonie]

Do you have caltracs for a flipped axle? Do you have the line lock on the front or back brakes?

[Irish_Alley]

I saw that too vile was kind of hoping I misread it.       

[team39763]

Caltracs are the flipped models.  The linelock is on the rear brakes.  Plenty of racers have done this and it works pretty good when done right...but I did mine wrong since I didn't know the "trick" to it. 

[Irish_Alley]

i thought the locks were for the front so you can do a burn out

[1979C20]

Locking the rear brakes to do a burn out will help NONE. You want the least amount of friction on the rear brakes as possible. You want to have the front tires locked up to stop foreward movement and your rears free to spin. If you want some mean burnouts, empty the brake lines and resevoir for the rear brakes and use just your fronts. You could line lock the rears, rev the engine, hold the front brakes, then release the rear line lock still holding the front brakes and gas. Releasing the line lock with all of that rotating force would brake the tires loose like no other.

[HAULIN IT]

 Team, I see several "flaws" in your plan. First, the basic design of a flip kit is poor for what your trying to do with your truck. The axle is trying to rotate upward on the launch & the only thing holding it is the ungusseted vertical sections of the "U" which are pushed against the unsupported/weakest area of the original perch. If anything, the lower flip part should have some support in the triangle areas so the front & back can't bow/buckle like they did. Second, the upright portions should be angled inward somewhat  so they are hitting closer to the axle tube...it's still a poor plan, but would be much better than what you have. You really need the bottom perches welded to the tubes with high angled supports holding the ends in place...there is allot of force going on there when the engine turns the drivetrain & the tires have 100% bite.
 I'm concerned with the shim in the first picture. I don't exactly understand what is going on there. Is that the center pin of the spring pack behind the perch (beside the stone)? Did that stuff all get moved around or was the shim only half way under the flip part when you put it together? By the bend in the flip part...I'm thinking it was allways that way. What was holding your shim, flip plate centered? Did you drill a new hole in the shim? Was the center pin long enough to to into the hole in the flip plate? I suspect that some issues here maybe what started the whole thing going south. Please answer & I'll explain.
 Here's a picture of mine...they are the original tubes/perches just turned upside down, but the simple boxing on the ends supports them from folding. Remember, the front side isn't doing anything on the launch (I guess you can tell that by the your second picture  ) The back is what is keeping the housing from turning...it is driving downward into the spring. On your setup, the unsupported item (the top perch) is now trying to do the job. I have built a couple rearends for high powered, leaf spring cars that I made the perch out of 2 flat triangle flat plates (with holes to slide them over the axle tube) & a flat plate for the bottom & a piece of strap to box the triangles the whole way around the tube. This works well, but is un-needed for any "normal" amount of power/traction.
 
 Several years back I broke the right side, main leaf on a launch...the outcome was quite similar to yours. 
 On the linelock thing...Doing the back works fine, installed/operated correctly.
By your last post Team...I'm guessing you have it figured out now? Was the in/out backwards? Any Questions, Just ask! Lorne
 

[team39763]

Thanks for the reply Lorne.  Yeah, I had the linelock in/out lines backwards.  I put the linelock on the rear brakes to block the rears off during the burnout so I could have a little better contol.

Everything just moved around.  The shim was on correctly(centered under the saddle) and the pin was in, but I guess it sheared off.  The pin was long enough to go through the saddle and the shim.  That wasn't it in the picture.

I'm gonna get me some high quality spring perches whenever I do fix the truck.  http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Leaf-spring-perch_p_1485.html

[78 Chevyrado]

How much power are you playing with and how wide are your rear tires? 

A guy I know has an old AMX with about 600hp in it and really wide tires (dont remember how wide) and he had to get billet spring perches on his car.  he twisted and broke even the best stamped perches.   his car would pick up the nose however high you wanted it to go though when he stomped the gas.

[team39763]

I was told that my motor should make around 400-430 and my slicks are 29x12.  I don't have enough power to rip things apart.  I'm 100% sure it was something I did(didn't do correctly) that caused this.

[VileZambonie]

Why would you put the line lock for doing burnouts on the rear? You got it backwards.

[Irish_Alley]

i think maybe to burn out the clutch  im still confused about this part but seams others have done this, I thought a line lock was to free up one foot so you can use the clutch and gas at the same time

[HAULIN IT]

Vile & others, Quite a few guys have the line lock hooked up in the rear brake line. What you do, instead of having the valve hold fluid/pressure IN the front brakes...it's hooked up so it keeps the fluid/pressure OUT of the rear brakes. Now you use the brake pedal to work the front brakes while doing the burnout. Instead of letting off the button when your done, you just lift off of the brake pedal, then the switch before the next time you want rear brakes...most guys still use a momentary button I believe.
I'm not sure who/when this idea started...the first guy I knew of that did it was running in the F.A.S.T. series (Factory Appearing Stock Tire) where the vehicle must look stock & have many correct dated, ect. parts. Having a line lock set-up hanging under the master cylinder was a no-no. He had his tucked up in the kick-up above the rearend...the line goes back, into the line lock then out to the rubber hose & down to the rearend housing. Lorne

[Irish_Alley]

now that makes sense. you flip the switch before you apply your brakes to cut off flow to the rear. then you use the brakes it will only go to the front.

[VileZambonie]

I didn't quite get that this is how he has his set up from his posts. I understand the concept you are saying Lorne but for someone who is looking to do a burnout setting it up conventionally seems to make the most sense here no?

[team39763]

I was aiming to do it exactly as Lorne said.  I had a reason for wanting it that way rather than the traditional way, but I can't remember what it was.
I looked over the damage today and the trans is beyond repair, the driveshaft will need a new end welded on it, the rearend is fine(except the spring perch).  It could've been worse.