broke another starter

[screamin86]

so i thought i fixed my starter issue ive been having because of the bad bolt hole in my block by swaping on a 3bolt iron nose cone AND using the starter brace. well i was wrong it started fine for a few days then today when i went to leave the gas station it started but sounded awful then i could hear something rattling under the truck so when i stoped and looked under the truck i found the nose on the starter hangin off banging on the flexplate. i shut it down and called my insurance company and got it towed home. im thinking about trying a powermaster 3 bolt starter. ive called a few machine shops and repair shops in my area and they all say they can try another starter or that the block cannot be welded while its in the truck.

[Lt.Del]

bummer.  There is a lot of torque in starters and if the starter is not attached right and has the slightest play, i guess that is the result.   Good luck with it.

[screamin86]

Yeah I'm getting frustrated I started looking for a complete pullout 5.3/4l60e but I'm still finishing up my swap in my car and I don't wanna start another. I'm close to selling it and putting a hitch on my yukon and get a small utility trailer and put up a new fence at my house. Than maybe in a couple of years get another square body.

[Irish_Alley]

im confused, whats the starter nose have to do with the bolts?

[VileZambonie]

What's the problem with the block? Is it broken? Make sure you are using the correct knurled bolts and torquing them to spec. Put in a good starter as well as making sure you have it shimmed properly.

[screamin86]

I bought new bolts when I mounted this starter and made sure they were the correct length and size. I ordered a powermaster starter that has all 3 holes with bolts and shims hopefully this will work. The outer hole it broken like just up to the threads.

[screamin86]

Got my powermaster starter in the mail yesterday and got it installed today and I must say this thing is NICE but it should be for $217 shipped.its got like a black rubberized coating on it and all electricl hookups on the bottom with I like since it will be away from the headers. Her is the p/n 9612. I bolted it up and hooked up the batt and It cranked as quiet as my wifes 2011 civic. I ran it awhile to chage the batt some and prob started it 10 times or so and so far so good but I'm gona have to put the the shim that goes behind the mounting block. Every now and then. Like light light throttle you can hear the flexplate just touch the end of the starter gear. I'm gona fix that tomorrow and keep up with updates I have to haul a bunch of stuff away from our house and moms this weekend so ill see how it does.I may switch to a larger better set of batt cables though these are 4gauge duralast cables.

[bocajoe]

Got my powermaster starter in the mail yesterday and got it installed today and I must say this thing is NICE but it should be for $217 shipped.its got like a black rubberized coating on it and all electricl hookups on the bottom with I like since it will be away from the headers. Her is the p/n 9612. I bolted it up and hooked up the batt and It cranked as quiet as my wifes 2011 civic. I ran it awhile to chage the batt some and prob started it 10 times or so and so far so good but I'm gona have to put the the shim that goes behind the mounting block. Every now and then. Like light light throttle you can hear the flexplate just touch the end of the starter gear. I'm gona fix that tomorrow and keep up with updates I have to haul a bunch of stuff away from our house and moms this weekend so ill see how it does.I may switch to a larger better set of batt cables though these are 4gauge duralast cables.

Hey screamin86, I know it's an old post but I wanted to see if the 3 hole powermaster starter is is still working for you as I have the same problem with a broken starter bolt hole in my 350 block. Which bolt hole was broke on yours... the one circled in red on this diagram? That's the bolt hole that broke off 1/2 way up my block. dang thing is killing me trying to find a good solution.

[VileZambonie]

why not drill it out?

[HAULIN IT]

I think what he is saying is that the block is chunked out. I've seen a few like that...just peels a half round chunk out of the thin area up the depth of how much the bolt was threaded in. Lorne

[bocajoe]

Yep, a chunk fell of my starter bolt hole. Couple pics but they suck, sorry

If you look at the left part of the picture half way way down you can see the missing chunk



This pic I threaded the starter bolt fully... you can see part of the threads still showing

[dvdswan]

I was going to suggest shimming the starter, but that sucks about the bolt hole.  i would measure the height of the starter to and then install the bolt in the block at that measurement.  I think you will have more threads showing than you do in the one picture.  i'm no expert on block repair, but that all it will ever be from here on out.  maybe JB weld the piece on there, but with the torque of the starter I think you will be back to square one.  you may need another block...  IDK.  hopefully this can be repaired or even welded in.  good luck.

[rich weyand]

You can probably drill the hole through and thread it all the way through and use a longer bolt to get more thread engagement.  The other thing that would be the ultimate fix is to clearance drill the hole, then grind enough clearance on the back side to get a nut on there and braze the nut in place.  Use a deep nut and an over-length bolt so you have plenty of engagement.

Deep nuts are also called coupling nuts, as here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-nuts/=q19i7g

[bocajoe]

Thanks for the ideas & help guys. I would love to not have to pull the motor if at all possible. The original poster said he used a powermaster 3 hole starter which my block is drilled with 3 holes. It's been a while since he posted he got the starter... I'd love to find out if it worked out thus far.