Engine starts, then dies. Help, I'm stranded!

[rockable]

Fuel filter was as clean as it was when I put it in two years ago.  I replaced the cap, rotor, ignition control module and the original coil.  Time will tell if it is truly fixed.  It's running fine for now. 

Thanks, Guys!

[big bear]

good luck man..

[TexasRed]

I agree with it possibly could be the ESC. Was your module the 5 pin?

In this there's a way to get disconnect the ESC in your current distributor:

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/escrepl.htm

You may want to print those instructions out with the picture and take some tools with you for awhile to try that trick.

[rockable]

I agree with it possibly could be the ESC. Was your module the 5 pin?

Nope.  3 Pin.  I put a new one in it yesterday.  Time will tell.

[rockable]

This has Electronic Spark Control written all over it.

I agree.  After 3 or 4 weeks, I've had no further problems.  I replaced both the coil and the ESC but I'm betting it was the ESC.  It didn't have any of that conductive grease smeared on the bottom of it, so it probably burned up.

Thanks for the help, guys.

[rockable]

Well, it happened again.  Now, I'm darn sure it isn't an electronic problem or a fuel filter problem.  It happens after the truck sits idling for a while on a hot day. It just stumbles and cuts off.  Today, I raised the hood and let things cool off for a few minutes and was able to get it going.  Once I got on the road, no problem.

It's seems like vapor lock but there are no restrictions that I can tell in the fuel system.  (I do have the twin tank setup.)  I'm thinking this junky ethanol diluted gasoline is the main problem.

Anyone else had this problem?  I don't have any fuel delivery issues that I can tell at WOT, so I don't suspect the fuel pump.

[Grim 82]

Just to clarify, what exactly did you replace regarding the ESC? I think that our terminology may be off here.

Having the same issues again now still points to ESC, and unless you have completely removed the system and replaced your distributor with a non-ESC distributor (or repinned it like in the link TexasRed posted), I would expect that it will have intermittent issues in the future as well. Were you able to check for spark like SgtDel suggested?

The electronic spark control systems on these trucks are notorious for working fine and then suddenly leaving you stranded on the side of the road, and then when you go back to get the truck it fires right up and works fine for a month until it does it again. Even if this is not the cause in your case, I would still remove the ESC controller and everything associated with it and install a new non-ESC HEI distributor. They are cheap nowadays, and even if the ESC is not your problem now, bet that it will be later on down the road.

[Irish_Alley]

did you replace the pick-up coil?

[rockable]

I replaced the three pronged ESC control module located in the distributor and the ignition coil, rotor and cap.  What else is there?

Yesterday, after I raised the hood for about 10 minutes, I got it cranked and drove it home without a hitch.  It never completely went dead.  It stalled out when I attempted to pull away after having sit idling for 5 or 10 minutes.  Then it would crank but die a few seconds later.  Finally, I raised the hood and let it cool down for just a few minutes.  It cranked and remain cranked, so I got on the road and got the air and fuel flowing.

What is the easiest way to troubleshoot this?  I've been driving it without problems since June.   

[Irish_Alley]

the pick-up coil is under the icm. im guessing about it being a problem but it sound like the only thing you havnt done. when mine went bad i lost everything wouldnt start up for nothing

[Grim 82]

What else is there?

There is a computer box in the cab that goes bad. With the right distributor you can bypass the ESC. The power wire to your distributor is piggybacked with the ESC so if the computer acts up it will cut power and you will lose spark.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=17443.0

[txchainsawgogi]

What else is there?

There is a computer box in the cab that goes bad. With the right distributor you can bypass the ESC. The power wire to your distributor is piggybacked with the ESC so if the computer acts up it will cut power and you will lose spark.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=17443.0

friggin' computers.

[rockable]

What else is there?

There is a computer box in the cab that goes bad. With the right distributor you can bypass the ESC. The power wire to your distributor is piggybacked with the ESC so if the computer acts up it will cut power and you will lose spark.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=17443.0

I'm not buying this one.  The AC was on, so the computer box in the cab was as cool as I was.  I still say it's some sort of vapor lock or fuel problem but I don't know how to troubleshoot it.

[low budget]

My guess is the fuel pump.  The rubber diaphragm in there gets warm and gets weak, when it cools, becomes stiffer.  I had a car that done the exact same thing as you are saying, and it was the pump.  As long as I was on the road keeping air moving it was fine, but let me sit for awhile and let a little extra heat build, and I was sitting for a while till it cooled down.

Final Answer:  FUEL PUMP....

Good luck with it...

[Irish_Alley]

you have a couple options. one is to replace everything that you havnt yet or wait till next time it does this then test for spark.you can do this by taking a jumper cable and ground one end somewhere then remove a plug and wire put the cable on the threads of the plug and put it somewhere you can see and crank the engine. If you got spark then it’s a fuel problem. if no spark make sure you’re getting power to the red wire on the cap with a volt meter if no power it could be the ignition switch in the column. if thats getting power your problem should be under the cap. And since you replaced the the coil and icm or as your calling it the ecm. Next is the pick-up coil. You have to pull the distributor out to take this off, then at the bottom of the shaft there is a pin that holds the gear on you pop that out then slide the shaft out. And replace the pick-up coil