Help with some fine tuning?

[Dr_Snooz]

Sounds just like you have an Edelbrock carb. LOL. Mine has the same exact symptoms. I just live with it. Sometimes after restarting, it runs pig rich for awhile until I get it all blown out. Whatever Edelbrock.

[Got Smoke?]

Sounds just like you have an Edelbrock carb. LOL. Mine has the same exact symptoms. I just live with it. Sometimes after restarting, it runs pig rich for awhile until I get it all blown out. Whatever Edelbrock.

Well I'm currently working on that part....I won a Holley Street Avenger at a buddies open house for his Truck Accesory shop, he's trying to get it swapped out for a Truck Avenger for me.

[TexasRed]

You might try the heat insulating gasket between the carb and the intake. Those aluminum intakes throw off a lot of heat. Your module may be getting hot in your distributor too. I had a problem with hot starts until I changed my coil to an external and put a good module in there. I still get a slight stumble (but heck it's 100 plus degrees in Houston) but it's nothing like it was when it was winter.

The other thing is to slowly open the throttle halfway so the accelerator pump doesn't activate and then start it and let your foot of the gas once the engine catches so to speak. If it's somewhat flooded with gas, the extra air will help blow it out.

[GUITAR1989]

Yeah I just put on an Edelbrock and noticed if I shut my truck off and went in the store when I came back to fire it up Id have to crank for maybe 5 secs then it would start up. I talked to the guy at O'reilies and he told me to check the choke to see if its open fully after the trucks up to temp. Also told me to make sure my fuel line wasnt by anything that would get it really hot. Both of those checked out fine so Im guessing vapor lock is the problem. Im going to head down and buy a heat insulator gasket before I put new gaskets under my manifold. Ill tell you how the hot starts are after I have the insulator installed

[Got Smoke?]

You might try the heat insulating gasket between the carb and the intake. Those aluminum intakes throw off a lot of heat. Your module may be getting hot in your distributor too. I had a problem with hot starts until I changed my coil to an external and put a good module in there. I still get a slight stumble (but heck it's 100 plus degrees in Houston) but it's nothing like it was when it was winter.

The other thing is to slowly open the throttle halfway so the accelerator pump doesn't activate and then start it and let your foot of the gas once the engine catches so to speak. If it's somewhat flooded with gas, the extra air will help blow it out.

Wasn't quite sure what gasket you were talking about so I did a Bing Search...my carb is a square bore and my manifold is a spread bore so there is an adapter in between...would this serve the same purpose, or amplify the problem since its made out of metal/aluminum?

[1980c10]

Sounds just like you have an Edelbrock carb. LOL. Mine has the same exact symptoms. I just live with it. Sometimes after restarting, it runs pig rich for awhile until I get it all blown out. Whatever Edelbrock.

Well I'm currently working on that part....I won a Holley Street Avenger at a buddies open house for his Truck Accesory shop, he's trying to get it swapped out for a Truck Avenger for me.

My street avenger never lets me down.

There is an adapter for your application, You could find a phenolic version to insulate from heat if thats a concern. I would find an open version to help balance out your a/f mixture between the right and left bank as well.

[Got Smoke?]

Sounds just like you have an Edelbrock carb. LOL. Mine has the same exact symptoms. I just live with it. Sometimes after restarting, it runs pig rich for awhile until I get it all blown out. Whatever Edelbrock.

My street avenger never lets me down.

There is an adapter for your application, You could find a phenolic version to insulate from heat if thats a concern. I would find an open version to help balance out your a/f mixture between the right and left bank as well.

If my truck was already restored I would have just slapped the street avenger on there...its the nice all aluminum version. However, my truck is far from pretty and still gets taken off road frequently so I opted to swap it out for a Truck Avenger(hopefully)

[1980c10]

Yeah I just put on an Edelbrock and noticed if I shut my truck off and went in the store when I came back to fire it up Id have to crank for maybe 5 secs then it would start up. I talked to the guy at O'reilies and he told me to check the choke to see if its open fully after the trucks up to temp. Also told me to make sure my fuel line wasnt by anything that would get it really hot. Both of those checked out fine so Im guessing vapor lock is the problem. Im going to head down and buy a heat insulator gasket before I put new gaskets under my manifold. Ill tell you how the hot starts are after I have the insulator installed

If you have an electric choke, the choke operates off of 12v power not engine heat. So if your key is turned off the choke closes (when activated). when you turn on your key the choke slowly opens becuase the 12v power is heating the choke thermostat. your choke would most likely be closed somewhat. (btw you can check this by leaving the key on next time you stop for a few minutes). If this is your issue and you have plenty of choke for a cold start; dial back the choke a little and try it.

[beastie_3]

vapor lock. aka fuel in carb turning into vapor, or something like that. mine does it too, but I have a electric pump so i just let it prime.

[TexasRed]

You might try the heat insulating gasket between the carb and the intake. Those aluminum intakes throw off a lot of heat. Your module may be getting hot in your distributor too. I had a problem with hot starts until I changed my coil to an external and put a good module in there. I still get a slight stumble (but heck it's 100 plus degrees in Houston) but it's nothing like it was when it was winter.

The other thing is to slowly open the throttle halfway so the accelerator pump doesn't activate and then start it and let your foot of the gas once the engine catches so to speak. If it's somewhat flooded with gas, the extra air will help blow it out.

Wasn't quite sure what gasket you were talking about so I did a Bing Search...my carb is a square bore and my manifold is a spread bore so there is an adapter in between...would this serve the same purpose, or amplify the problem since its made out of metal/aluminum?

I thought you had a performer intake which should be both square and spreadbore flanged?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9265/

Something like that might work. Or you could try the whole plate setup. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-3710/

[jaredts]

A lot of performer's can use square or spread bore carb.'s, but there's plenty that are one or the other.

[Got Smoke?]

I thought you had a performer intake which should be both square and spreadbore flanged?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9265/

Something like that might work. Or you could try the whole plate setup. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-3710/

It is a performer intake I bought it new from my local auto zone several years ago while a buddy & his dad were helping me rebuild the 350. You can get them in either form, at the time I was reusing my Qjet carb so I needed spread bore.

[VileZambonie]

I thought distributor should not have vacuum at idle?

If you have a bone stock application and wish to keep it that way, yes it was timed and ported from the factory. If you have done any modifications and or just want to benefit from a stronger idle and better throttle response connect it to the full vacuum port on the front of the carb.

[VileZambonie]

You should wire the elcetric choke off of an oil pressure switch. If you have it hooked to key on B+ as soon as you turn the key on it will start to heat the choke coil.

[Got Smoke?]

You should wire the elcetric choke off of an oil pressure switch. If you have it hooked to key on B+ as soon as you turn the key on it will start to heat the choke coil.

Is there another oil pressure port besides the one the OEM sender using next to the distributor. Sorry I know that's a newb question...