Where to get projectors

[1979C20]

Take some pictures of your wiring so we can help some.

[Skunksmash]

Aww who am I kiddin I don't know where to start! I would just use trial and error but I'm afraid I'll just burn out and waste my H4 bulbs and have to buy more.

[1979C20]

Like I said, take some pictures of the wiring and we can help out. I dont think youll burn out the bulbs, if anything they justwont turn on.

[Skunksmash]

No, unless the wirong is backwards, the bottom 2 should be the broghts and the top 2 ahould be the lows.

Gotta revive this old thread.

Do yall think it would be bad if I got the brights and dims reversed? Looks like my brights are now going to be the top two lights, and the dims are going to be the bottom two lights. Well, the bottom two lights will come on, anyway. The top two will never go off. Pretty much the exact opposite of the way you describe.

For some reason that just seems to be what the new H4 bulbs want to do.

[Irish_Alley]

The top two will never go off. Pretty much the exact opposite of the way you describe.

For some reason that just seems to be what the new H4 bulbs want to do.

this is how my 86 was setup the top two where low and stayed on all the time while the bottom two where the highs

[Skunksmash]

Yeah but now my top two are going to be the brights/highs. Is that a bad thing? Won't I be blinding people?

[ehjorten]

Legally, the upper lamps need to be the low beams (in a vertically stacked setup).  However, I would argue that the lower of the two being the low beams would be better for oncoming traffic.  For example, in ECE regulations there is a height restriction on low beams (1,200 mm), but not on high beams.  This is because you are not using the high beams in the presence of on-coming traffic.  Who cares where your high beams are at that point!

[jaredts]

edit:  just re-read what you did, and it should work without relays, although you will need them to keep from burning up your headlight switch or worse (catch your truck on fire).  Did you swap the wires on your headlight connectors?

[Skunksmash]

I'm still working on getting it all going. I have not hooked anything up permanently yet. Just did some testing to see how the H4 bulbs would work with the stock stuff.

But uh.. so you're saying that if I just wire up the H4's and make 'em work, then it may ruin my switch? Where exactly do you install the new relays to prevent this?

[jaredts]

It will draw more current than your system was designed for.  You may blow your fusible link going down the road and suddenly have no lights, or burn up the switch, or catch the truck on fire.  You could buy a relay kit, or buy two relays and some wire and a fuse holder and wire it yourself.  Search the internet a little.  78 Chevyrado added relays to his truck using relays with integral fuseholders--pretty slick.

[Skunksmash]

So it looks like I need... 4 of these things. One per headlight. Dang. Any way I could just use 2? Wait no I guess that wouldn't work cause all 4 headlights come on when you turn on the brights...

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003530041-SPST-Relay-Bracket/dp/B005OV274W

Also gotta figure out what the current draw is on the H4's so I can get the correct relays and fuses. Saw this in the archives on another forum.

 

"A stock sealed beam headlight only draws 12 to 15 amps. The stock headlight switch is rated up to 15 amps. A halogen headlight draws 15 to 18 amps, which is right on the edge.


Headlights don't draw anywhere near that much current. The typical halogen H4 headlights are 55/65 watts, which is only about 5 amps per bulb. I think stock bulbs are even lower.

http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/HighPerformance/Silverstar/ProductLine/

I have seen some specialty bulbs up around 100 watts, though.

Still, I would recommend a relay setup for any upgraded or even stock headlights."



"Chevynut...Your right on the amout of current draw...The other source I quoted was incorrect.....Thanks for pointing that out....However, the Shop Manual states that the thermal ckt breaker in the H/L switch is rated at 13 amps and the original sealed beams draw 50W at high beam for a total of 8.3 amps....Therefore, as you stated, 2 halogens at 60W will draw 10 amps, putting you toward the upper limit...See links:

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm1204.html

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm1218.html

So, I would recommend a relay setup for any upgraded or even stock headlights as well."



Ok do yall think the Hella 25 amp relays can be used for my H4 conversion? They come with a 25 amp fuse in them. If each H4 headlight is only going to draw 18 amps max, and I get 4 relays, then I should be fine right? Or is 25 amp too high? Do you need to be closer to your actual current draw? Maybe I should get 20 amp relays and a 20 amp fuse for each light?

[jaredts]

You only need one relay for high beams and one for low beams.  Power their coils with the existing headlight low and high beam wires.  Use those relays with built in fuses or just use an inline fuse ahead of regular SPST or SPDT relays.  Power to the contact on the relay that will power your headlights should come through a substantial wire (10 ga. or so) hooked directly to the battery positive or use a ring terminal at the positive battery connection on the starter.  The fuse, whether in the relay or inline should be close to the source you get B+ from so you don't have much unfused wire to pose a hazard.

[Skunksmash]

Ok sounds good. I'll report back later.

[4x4x4x]

if anyone is looking to buy hella replacement headlights fro the chevy quad light system, then check out this link.

http://www.ronthebusnut.com/collections/conversion-supplies/products/hella-165mm-headlamp

they have both low and high beam hella headlights for around $15.00 each.

[Skunksmash]

Yeah I considered those. They're probably great pieces, but they don't look very cool. They look old. That's why I bought the more modern looking Depo brand ones for the H4 conversion. People would look at those and just think they were stock.