1986 K10 Re-build (Not the motor)

[sonicbluezx3]

Well it has been a long while since I posted an update. Sorry about that.

As it stands now, I have the bed and cab mounted onto the truck and everything is all put back together. The step rear bumper is mounted as well.

Basically the only thing left for me to do is put the interior back in and replace the doors.

I just bought a set of doors off of Craigslist for $150 that are in really good shape. I have the door panels off now and will be painting everything black. I am planning to have diamond plating cut out to the shape of the lower carpet panel on the doors and have that instead. Also I will be putting 6" speakers in the door and wiring up the power door locks.

Painted the frame: (Don't worry... I painted it black after this. That was the only color of the rust sealer K-mart had and it was on sale. I went back over it with black bedliner spray so it is 100% black now!)


Got the cab on:


Friends who helped:


I put my old doors on to keep the water out:


Gotta love the new front "bling":


How it sat after new years:


I then moved to Charlotte to an apartment. My truck sat in the garage for a few months while I was working and going to school and had zero time to work on the truck.

I started back working on the truck in my garage about a month ago and the next set of pictures will show the progress I have made since then.

[sonicbluezx3]

Okay here are some pics of what I did to fix the low hump issue:





This was the shifter before sandblasting and painting it:


After:


Shifter cover before painting:


Shifter cover after:


Dynamat on the floor:

[sonicbluezx3]

Had to cut a hole in the floor when I got the cab because the cab mount nut was spinning in place. I fixed the threads and replaced the mount, and covered the hole (I sprayed about a can of PB blaster in there before doing so in order to prevent rust).

[sonicbluezx3]

Fubared radio area:


Fix:






Rear speaker mounts (has anyone else done this??):

Before:


During:


After:

[sonicbluezx3]

I now have the doors sitting in my shop. I will be sanding/painting them and replacing all of the seals. Once i get them done I will go install them in the garage. All that I have left is to install the blazer seats, the carpet, and the remaining interior trim panels.

I will still need to set up the A/C system since it never had A/C (I decided to keep it and try to find all the pieces to add A/C to the 6.2. I have the brackets and all the venting for the interior).

[Edahall]

Haha thanks. I don't know if I agree, haven't ever owned a Ford truck. I am very happy with my Chevy though... just wish the 6.2 had more power! Lol. Way down the road I may look into swapping some sort of turbo diesel into it, but I have to finish what I've got right now lol and then focus on school for a while.

These 6.2's only came with 130 hp from the factory.   However, there are some simple things you can do to help it out quite a lot and even gain some on fuel economy.

1.  Install a "J" code intake manifold that does not have the EGR valve apparatus. 
2.  Open up the air cleaner / intake.  You can stack 2 air cleaners on top of each other.
3.  Ditch those restrictive muffler for something like this.

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/oid/78183/erm/productDetail.do

4.  Get a single 3" exhaust or dual 2-1/2" with an H pipe.
5.  Exhaust headers if you can afford it
6.  Turn up your injection pump.

I did all of that to my 1982 6.2L Suburban and the difference was like night and day.  Power would be similar to a very healthy 350 but with much less fuel usage.

[thirsty]

Nice idea on the speakers. How do they sound in there?

[sonicbluezx3]

Haha thanks. I don't know if I agree, haven't ever owned a Ford truck. I am very happy with my Chevy though... just wish the 6.2 had more power! Lol. Way down the road I may look into swapping some sort of turbo diesel into it, but I have to finish what I've got right now lol and then focus on school for a while.

These 6.2's only came with 130 hp from the factory.   However, there are some simple things you can do to help it out quite a lot and even gain some on fuel economy.

1.  Install a "J" code intake manifold that does not have the EGR valve apparatus. 
2.  Open up the air cleaner / intake.  You can stack 2 air cleaners on top of each other.
3.  Ditch those restrictive muffler for something like this.

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/oid/78183/erm/productDetail.do

4.  Get a single 3" exhaust or dual 2-1/2" with an H pipe.
5.  Exhaust headers if you can afford it
6.  Turn up your injection pump.

I did all of that to my 1982 6.2L Suburban and the difference was like night and day.  Power would be similar to a very healthy 350 but with much less fuel usage.

Yeah i have all of the books from the diesel place so i plan to do some of this. Thanks for the tips. Any idea where i can get the intake or exhaust manifolds?

[sonicbluezx3]

Nice idea on the speakers. How do they sound in there?

Ive only played them enough to make sure they worked. They sounded a lot better than the dash speakers did though. Im going to have to close off the spot here 6x9s go so the sound is a bit better.

[Edahall]

Yeah i have all of the books from the diesel place so i plan to do some of this. Thanks for the tips. Any idea where i can get the intake or exhaust manifolds?

You might be able to find the intake manifold at the junkyard.  The trucks with the non EGR intake manifolds would be either 3/4 ton or 1 ton.  Or you could do like me and chip out that EGR pedestal.

The only place I know that sells exhaust headers for the 6.2/6.5 is
http://www.stans-headers.com/diesel.htm

[sonicbluezx3]

Do you have a picture of what the egr looks like? The part in the intake i mean

[sonicbluezx3]

Wow $551 for headers.... do they really make that big of a difference over stock?

[bake74]

     Nice job on the floor hump and speakers, like the speaker idea.

[Edahall]

Do you have a picture of what the egr looks like? The part in the intake i mean

It looks like this.

[Edahall]

Wow $551 for headers.... do they really make that big of a difference over stock?

Yes, huge difference over stock.  Also, still cheaper than a Banks Turbo and power is very comparable between the two.  But the one big advantage of headers over a turbo is better fuel economy.  I have more than paid for the price of the headers with just better fuel economy alone.   GM should have installed headers on the 6.2 from the factory but I'm sure cost was the factor against it.  Also, keep in mind that the military Humvees have headers installed on their 6.2's.  The military would have never installed them if it didn't make a big enough difference.  Too bad, these headers don't fit in our trucks otherwise that would be a way to save some bucks.