Author Topic: Cowl rust repair begins  (Read 2205 times)

Offline trucknoob

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Cowl rust repair begins
« on: December 02, 2011, 12:09:30 PM »
Here is the beginning of my crusade against the cowl rust. How hard is it to shape the sheetmetal for the areas that were already gone? It looks tedious but I'm going in guns blazing ! Any tips are appreciated. Wish me luck.
Bill

Offline bake74

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2011, 09:14:53 PM »
     As far as how hard to shape, kinda depends on the tools you have access to.  If a english wheel/brake is available I would say easy, if a big hammer and the end of a vise, I would have to say, not so easy.
     Good for you there is the internet with a wealth of people who just love to show you how to do stuff on U-tube and the like.  Good luck with your project and keep us informed.
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Online VileZambonie

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2011, 09:17:24 PM »
I built my firewall. English wheel and a welder
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Offline bake74

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2011, 09:21:16 PM »
I built my firewall. English wheel and a welder

     Gotta love a english wheel, and people who know how to use them.   ;)
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Offline trucknoob

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2011, 09:37:27 AM »
No English wheel here. I saw Jesse James use one on discovery. They are awesome. I'm thinking I can cut the pieces out weld them up and then weld them back into place. It will probably end up looking like Frankenstein. Luckily I have a few good welders I can call in for support. One of my Friends told me he molds using a bucket of sand and a body hammer ! Also wanted to ask your views on cutting out the dashboard and that brake plate so I can get back in there after the deep stuff. Honestly, its seems like I'm digging myself into a hole but I cant stop. I'm having too much fun. I guess if I screw it up bad enough I just go in search of another cab.
Thanks for looking guys,
Bill

Offline bake74

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2011, 02:16:43 PM »
  Luckily I have a few good welders I can call in for support. One of my Friends told me he molds using a bucket of sand and a body hammer ! Also wanted to ask your views on cutting out the dashboard and that brake plate so I can get back in there after the deep stuff.   I guess if I screw it up bad enough I just go in search of another cab.
 
Bill

     Friends who weld are awesome if you don't trust yourself.  I actually watched someone use the sand and body hammer method and he got really good results ( I am not that patient though )
     As far as removing your "dashboard", most of your dash parts and dash pad are removable, the actual metal frame is spot welded in different areas, it can be done, but I would suggest you tear everything out of your dash and pad first to see if you can get to the area's, before actually removing the metal dash, just an idea.
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Online VileZambonie

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2011, 03:32:20 PM »
Here's some pics of how I did my firewall









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Online VileZambonie

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2011, 03:34:07 PM »
I made the tunnel indent on the wheel because I hated the factory look there with the seam. I also hate that lip and the pinch welds so although it was a lot of work I like the way it looks.
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Offline trucknoob

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2011, 03:39:19 PM »
It looks amazing. How thick is the metal you made the wall out of ? It looks stout !

Offline trucknoob

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2011, 01:14:17 PM »
I finally found some good metal. Still gonna need to get the brake braket off. Theres bad stuff behind it. Wish me luck !

Offline HAULIN IT

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2011, 07:52:44 PM »
Got here too late! I was looking at your first pictures & was thinking to myself... "As long as you leave the top portion of the curve of the trans./distributor dip you'll be ok." Scrolled down to todays picture & saw that you cut it out, Why? That just made your job MUCH harder, especially if your not familiar/have the proper tools & skills.
You will want to make the dipped area out of one piece & tack it in with some extra metal sticking out facing forward/upward ( a little heat @ 10:00 & 2:00 will help shape it) & then paint the backside Black, use a metal straightedge laid flat on the original metal & scribe around the excess, trim it off. Get a piece of heavy paper like Vile showed to transfer to the new metal...you will end up with a weld right around the curve. This is much easier than trying to make the flat & curved out of One piece. Lorne   

Online VileZambonie

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #11 on: December 06, 2011, 12:51:20 PM »
Get a shrinker/expander and a bead roller from harbor freight. It will make building your own metal much easier.
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Offline trucknoob

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #12 on: December 06, 2011, 04:10:16 PM »
I didnt destroy the dip. I just cut it out so i can repair it and reweld it back in.

Offline HAULIN IT

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #13 on: December 11, 2011, 07:48:15 PM »
Well, Ok...I just don't see why you would want to make a second weld seam 2" above the one you needed for no reason?

Offline trucknoob

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Re: Cowl rust repair begins
« Reply #14 on: December 13, 2011, 11:55:52 AM »
How else would i get to the rust that was between the "dipped area" and the firewall with out removing that piece ? Not to mention to repair the metal that butts up to it from behind.

 


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