Removing factory oil cooler

[bbohannon1]

'85 C20 5.7L. Oil cooler supply line is leaking. I want to remove the oil cooler as other have done. Is this the right/best part for the job? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CVS-OFA65/  Thanks in advance!

[Captkaos]

You talking about the piece that is bolted to the oil filter pad on the block?

[bbohannon1]

Yeah. I want to loose the oil filter mount that has the hoses to & from the oil cooler and replace it with one without the hose connections.

[Captkaos]

Just unbolt it and put the bypass valve in it, that one you listed doesn't have a bypass....

[bbohannon1]

I obviously don't understand what's going on.  What's a bypass valve?

[Captkaos]

I was just pointing out that most factory Chevrolet filter bosses have a bypass built in, that one doesn't.

[firefightin1]

if you keep you oil changed every 3000 miles or so you dont have to have a bypass valve, all it does is keeps the oil filter from clogging up and starving the engine of oil, however for street use of an engine i highly recommend using a bypass style, i only use the non bypass on race engines.  hope this helps a little

[VileZambonie]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SES-3-60-08-900/

This is what you need and eliminating the oil cooler is a good idea.

[bbohannon1]

What about gaskets I might need?

[Jason S]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SES-3-60-08-900/

This is what you need and eliminating the oil cooler is a good idea.

I don't want to hijack the thread but...
Why would eliminating the oil cooler be a good idea?  If you tow anything, especially on a hot day in summer I'd think the oil cooler would be a nice thing to have.

[VileZambonie]

The only gasket is the oil filter. The bypass adapter bolts directly to the block just make sure it's nice n clean. There will be gaskets with the cooler set up.

Why would eliminating the oil cooler be a good idea?  If you tow anything, especially on a hot day in summer I'd think the oil cooler would be a nice thing to have.

Because they leak and if it does by the time you realize it, too late. You know how many engines I replaced for this same reason? If it was a crate engine replacement you needed to bypass the oil cooler or the warranty for the engine was void. If you use good oil you've got nothing to worry about.

[trink2030]

Hello!

I ordered this part for my 1985 454 c3500 from summit.  I didn't realize this thread was for the 350 when originally reading.  When I got it, it didn't look like it would bolt up, so I called Summit and they said that it 'should' work.  Does anyone have any comment for the same part on the 454?

On a side note, the reason I want those lines gone is because they are leaking.  I bought the dye at the below link and used a 365nm UV light and it is clear as day where my motor has leaks at. At night it shines like it's radioactive under the UV.  Awesome stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Products-TP34000601-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B000JFHNTM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335050649&sr=8-1

[trink2030]

Also, is the part at the below link what I should be removing when I do bypass the cooler?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=342&partnum=25013759&a=FR342-25013759-794526

Thanks again

[VileZambonie]

Not sure what you are linking to but when you remove the cooler adapter and lines just make sure that the block is clean. Old gasket material and crud builds up in there and if you are going to use the standard bypass valve then it needs to be really clean. No gasket is used except for the oil filter o-ring.

[bd]

I ordered this part for my 1985 454 c3500 from Summit.  ...When I got it, it didn't look like it would bolt up, so I called Summit and they said that it 'should' work.  Does anyone have any comment for the same part on the 454?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SES-3-60-08-900/

This is what you need....

Vile linked the bypass valve/oil filter adaptor for your Mark IV big block (and all other production Chev V8s from ~1968 through 1987+).  The actual bypass valve is the little pale brown colored fiber disc.

...when you remove the cooler adapter and lines just make sure that the block is clean.  Old gasket material and crud builds up in there and if you are going to use the standard bypass valve then it needs to be really clean.  No gasket is used except for the oil filter o-ring.

As stated, remove the old filter base with the oil cooler hose ports, clean up the block (be careful of razor sharp edges), and then install the new filter base that you purchased - NO gasket or sealer. 

Tighten the two bypass valve mounting bolts to 18-20 lbs-ft.  Install a new filter, add oil as needed, check for leaks, and your basically done.  The only thing remaining would be to remove the old cooler hoses and brackets.