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73-87chevytrucks.com
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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks
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Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension
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frame protectant
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Topic: frame protectant (Read 7052 times)
gcochran223
Registered Users
Posts: 148
frame protectant
«
on:
December 30, 2011, 06:51:21 pm »
New to the forum, can't wait to learn some tips and tricks.
I'm about to start a frame up restoration on my 78 k10. dismantling begins this weekend and I'm thinking of what I want to use to protect the frame from rust for the future. it's not getting sandblasted or powder coated nothing that extreme,but I'm wondering what I should use weather it be tractor paint or por-15 I've seen.this is kind of a budget restoration,any tips are appreciated thank you .
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1986 k15, 355, th400 ,np205, Corporate 10 bolt,corporate 12 bolt, 8" suspension lift.4.56 yukon gears.
thirsty
Senior Member
Posts: 1289
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #1 on:
December 30, 2011, 08:47:30 pm »
Get it degreased first. If you are doing a frame off restoration than you will get good at it.
Then use a needle scaler (if you have an air compressor), a wire wheel, and a wire brush to get the heavy rust off.
After that use POR 15 or Chassis Saver and top coat it with paint before it is fully cured. I'm not sure about chassis saver but I know that the paint will not stick to por 15 after it is cured. The top coat will give it UV protection.
Hope this helps.
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Blazin
Blazin new trails!
Senior Member
Posts: 6130
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #2 on:
December 30, 2011, 09:46:07 pm »
Paint won't stick to Chassis saver either once its cure with out using a special etching primer. POR 15, or Chassis Saver won't stick to old paint either, even if its sanded. It will only stick to tightly adhered rust, or clean sand blasted metal.
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Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs
bake74
Senior Member
Posts: 5871
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #3 on:
December 31, 2011, 09:52:35 am »
Welcome to the site. I just did mine frame, but had it powder coated (but I got a smoking deal I could not pass up). If I was to do it again, I would have it sand blasted, wash it and leave for a couple of days to etch with oxidation (rust), and then either por-15 or chassis saver the frame.
I also redid both front and rear axles in por-15, and getting ready to do all the suspension parts left over in chassis saver. (doing a experiment to see which is better).
Any way, the cheapest way, and to make sure it last like you want, is go the sandblasting and por-15/chassis saver route, should never have to worry about it for a great long while.
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#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
74 k10, 77k10 Tom
VileZambonie
Global Moderator
Senior Member
Posts: 19171
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #4 on:
December 31, 2011, 10:02:43 am »
If you aren't in the budget of having it powder coated you're going to have to put a lot of elbow grease into it if it's got rust, scale, undercoating, paint etc on it. So a powerwasher, sandblaster and wire wheel are going to be essential tools.
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75 K5
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84 GMC
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85 K20
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86 k20
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gcochran223
Registered Users
Posts: 148
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #5 on:
December 31, 2011, 11:10:27 am »
thanks for the tips I appreciate it. the frame is actually probably the cleanest part of the truck believe it or not I believe it was an old silverado edition farm truck. there is a sand blasting powder coating shop probably 15 miles from my house I could get a estimate I guess I would probably want them to do the frame and the axles.I have an air compressor so wire will in such wouldn't be a problem I also have a power washer..I do like the way that p o r 15 has reviews on the internet so that definitely sounds like a way to go. I did see you last time harbor freight did have a soda blaster, sandblaster type device there but. I'm not sure how quality it is.
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1986 k15, 355, th400 ,np205, Corporate 10 bolt,corporate 12 bolt, 8" suspension lift.4.56 yukon gears.
Blazin
Blazin new trails!
Senior Member
Posts: 6130
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #6 on:
December 31, 2011, 11:27:44 am »
The rims on my 86 were sand blasted, then i stuck them outdoors for about two months. Brought them in, took a wire brush to them, pressure washed them, let them dry, brushed Chassis Saver on, then sprayed the yellow acrylic enamel over it about half hour later. They still look great 4 years later.
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Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs
bake74
Senior Member
Posts: 5871
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #7 on:
December 31, 2011, 09:02:35 pm »
One thing to remember about having your axle's powder coated. They will have to be completely stripped down, I mean everything, that is why I ended up coating mine myself. ( I already had the gear sets with new bearings and races put in them. )
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#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
74 k10, 77k10 Tom
seventyx3
Newbie
Posts: 26
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #8 on:
January 01, 2012, 12:40:12 am »
I went the wire wheel/brush method due to budget. I've got my frame pretty well degreased and cleaned up. Some spots are bright, shiny clean metal, but others places it's nearly impossible to get to. The rust was not too severe because I'm in Arizona, but now I don't know how to go about painting it. It doesn't sound like por-15 or chassis saver will work well because the substrate is a mix of previous paint, light rust, heavier rust, and shiny. Rustoleum makes a clean metal primer, a self-etching primer, heavy rust primer, plain old primer, and primer sealer. If I'm not going with chassis saver, what do you think would be the best alternative? It's currently just a bare chassis. I've put as much elbow grease into it as I could tolerate. I was thinking self-etching primer and then semi-gloss. What are your opinions or experience?
Thanks
Kyle
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Blazin
Blazin new trails!
Senior Member
Posts: 6130
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #9 on:
January 01, 2012, 01:24:19 am »
Use a self etching primer on the bare metal, and Chassis Saver on the light rust. The heavy rust needs to be removed and then Chassis Saver. Just make sure the Rustoleum is compatible with any automotive paint you plan to use.
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Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs
bake74
Senior Member
Posts: 5871
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #10 on:
January 01, 2012, 12:52:32 pm »
On the hard to reach area's, you can use a flat headed screw driver to scrape off the paint so chassis saver/por-15 will stick to it. I know it is time consuming, but if you don't or can not spend the money on sand blasting, this is a cheap alternative that you can do at home with only your time.
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#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
74 k10, 77k10 Tom
gcochran223
Registered Users
Posts: 148
Re: frame protectant
«
Reply #11 on:
January 02, 2012, 02:27:13 pm »
Well after some digging, a buddy has a connection on a sand blasting shop and it seems like ill go with sand blasting the frame and some type of two part epoxy paint. Somewhere around 500 otd. Seems like my 78 budget goes up every week!
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1986 k15, 355, th400 ,np205, Corporate 10 bolt,corporate 12 bolt, 8" suspension lift.4.56 yukon gears.
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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks
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frame protectant