Author Topic: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10  (Read 4149 times)

Offline JuneBug

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 21
  • Newbie
Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« on: December 30, 2012, 09:26:46 AM »
My truck would not shut off when the key was removed so I finally figured that the ignition switch was bad.  It is on the column and not easy to get too. I had help removing it but now I am not sure how the actuator rod was positioned.  It doesn't seem to fit under the ignition switch so I am a little lost.  Any help with pictures would be great.  I need to see how the actuator rod and the ignition switch fit together.

Online Irish_Alley

  • Site Supporters
  • Senior Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7615
  • Family is not an important thing. It's everything.
If you canít tell yourself the truth, who can you tell it to?~Irish_Alley

When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?~Sherlock Holmes

Offline eric_haakenson

  • New Users
  • Posts: 1
  • Newbie
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2012, 03:05:38 PM »
Dude I'm having the same problem on a 85 Chevy Suburban.
I can't even see the ignition switch.
Is the ignition switch on the top of the steering column above the turn signal switch & the dimmer actuator?
If it is do I have to drop the steering column to get at it?
Also, I looked at linked Tilt column repair images, great shots & helpful, but it did not include changing the ignition switch so I am still at a loss.
Any pics of the ignition switch repair?

Offline Captkaos

  • OWNER and Administrator
  • Administrator
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 16404
    • http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #3 on: December 30, 2012, 03:11:50 PM »
The ingnition rack is at the bottom:






The ingnition switch removal is at the top:

Offline bd

  • Site Supporters
  • Senior Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 2453
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #4 on: December 30, 2012, 04:01:21 PM »
Fig. 1 - Ignition switch.
Fig. 2 - Note the small round hole in the "Switch Slider."
Fig. 3 - The actuator rod (#29) inserts into the "Switch Slider" in the bottom of the ignition switch (#24).
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know, until you know it....
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline JuneBug

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 21
  • Newbie
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2013, 08:40:14 PM »
Ok,  So I got some time to actually work on the truck again.  I changed the ignition switch on the steering column.  That is not something I want to have to do again anytime soon.  Its in such a hard place to get to. 

I am still having the dilemma with the truck not shutting off.  Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't.  It is also draining my battery.  I figure there is something not shutting off correctly but I am at a complete loss for what it could be.  She starts fine, no problems.  I turn her off and pull the key and she remains on for about another two minutes until she finally shuts down on her own. 

I have followed wires, checked everyone I can see and I don't see anything wrong with them.  A little history on the truck: 87' Chevy Silverado, V10, Step-side, 350 V8 5.7L.  Originally had throttle body but when my mom bought it they had replaced the engine.  It now has an Edelbrock 650, electric choke and has been upgraded to an HEI.

I need help. I have searched all over and found the same issues but never any solutions.  PLEASE HELP ME GET MY BABY STRAIGHT!!!!   

Offline JuneBug

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 21
  • Newbie
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2013, 09:48:49 PM »
Dude I'm having the same problem on a 85 Chevy Suburban.
I can't even see the ignition switch.
Is the ignition switch on the top of the steering column above the turn signal switch & the dimmer actuator?
If it is do I have to drop the steering column to get at it?
Also, I looked at linked Tilt column repair images, great shots & helpful, but it did not include changing the ignition switch so I am still at a loss.
Any pics of the ignition switch repair?


Did you ever get a fix to your problem?

Offline bd

  • Site Supporters
  • Senior Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 2453
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2013, 10:42:18 PM »
As a quick check, unplug the 2-wire regulator lead from the alternator to see if any of your symptoms go away.  BTW - have you done any work to the cab wiring or dash gauges?

To be more thorough, with the key OFF, unplug the 2-wire regulator plug from the alternator (see image).  Use a test light clipped to a good ground to probe the wires entering the regulator plug.  Verify that the #1 lead is dead and that the #2 lead is battery positive (the #2 lead is a short jumper connecting to the alternator battery post). 

With the key still OFF and the regulator plug still disconnected from the alternator, probe the #1 regulator terminal and then the #2 regulator terminal in the alternator being careful to avoid touching either terminal to ground - both should be dead. 

Now, with the regulator lead still unplugged from the alternator, turn the key ON, but do not start the engine.  Probe the #1 regulator lead - it should be hot, but less than battery voltage.

Report back with what you find out.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know, until you know it....
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline JuneBug

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 21
  • Newbie
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2013, 09:06:19 AM »
What exactly is that supposed to do?  Could my alternator be bad?

Offline bd

  • Site Supporters
  • Senior Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 2453
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2013, 12:10:52 PM »
The symptoms you described imply the distributor continues to receive power after the key is switched OFF.  The checks I mentioned starts the diagnostic process to determine the source of that unwanted power source.  At this point we want to narrow the possibilities.

You mentioned two symptoms: (1) the engine continues to run for ~2 minutes after the key is switched OFF, and (2) something is draining the battery.  The previously described checks are preliminary tests for both conditions.

Here's why...
If power is discovered on the #1 regulator lead with the key OFF, the battery will discharge through the alternator field windings when the engine isn't running and the battery will go dead (symptom #2).  It also would indicate the ignition circuit is improperly powered by an unwanted source other than the charging system (symptom #1).

On the other hand, if the engine consistently shuts off with the key while the alternator is unplugged, then the alternator wiring is the problem.  More on this later if this is the case. 

Disconnecting the alternator plug "opens" the alternator field circuit, partially isolates the charging system, and temporarily removes it from the diagnostic equation.  The 'test light checks' initially evaluate the wiring and alternator for a more complete preliminary diagnosis of both complaints.  Until you perform some tests, any "It's the..." answer is totally arbitrary, costly, and delays a proper repair.

At this early point, I suspect you have a wiring issue.  Hence, the previous question, "BTW - have you done any work to the cab wiring or dash gauges?"  But, the tests are required to isolate where.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know, until you know it....
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline JuneBug

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 21
  • Newbie
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2013, 02:42:49 PM »
Okay, so I did what you described.  Wires are hooked up properly.  Even with the alternator unplugged the truck still runs are shutting off the key until you disconnect the battery. 

As for rewiring, someone messed with the wiring for my mom.  I don't have a tach, and the installed a separate temp gauge. I do wonder if it is the wiring on the distributor.  Attached are two pictures of the distributor.  There is a red wire from the distributor is not connected (should that be for the + 12v) and the white wire from the distributor is connected to the red wire in the wiring harness.  Should the white wire be the tach?

Offline bd

  • Site Supporters
  • Senior Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 2453
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2013, 05:25:46 PM »
...There is a red wire from the distributor [that] is not connected (should that be for the + 12v) and the white wire from the distributor is connected to the red wire in the wiring harness.  Should the white wire be the tach?

Your distributor may be wired directly to battery.

The top of the distributor is labeled "BAT" and "TACH" (see attached image).  12-volt ignition power controlled by the ignition switch is supposed to feed the terminal labeled "BAT" via a 10- or 12-gauge wire.  Looking at your images, both wires appear undersized, which can starve the ignition system (an additional problem to the other problems you've identified).
  • Which color wire connects to the "BAT" terminal of your distributor?

  • Use your test light to probe the white wire with the key OFF - it should be dead.

  • Probe the white wire with the key ON - it should be 12-volts hot.

  • Probe the white wire one more time after shutting the key back OFF - it should be dead.
Post an update.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know, until you know it....
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline JuneBug

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 21
  • Newbie
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2013, 06:35:40 AM »
White wire is hooked to the BAT terminal on the distributor.  From the other tests performed, the wire is always 12-V hot.  At first it was dead key off, then key on it went hot and after I turned the key off it stayed hot.

Offline bd

  • Site Supporters
  • Senior Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 2453
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #13 on: March 25, 2013, 07:49:45 PM »
Is it safe to say that after you disconnect and reconnect the battery, the 'white' wire is still hot?  Or, does it reset to 'dead' until you cycle the key ON?
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know, until you know it....
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline JuneBug

  • Newbie
  • Posts: 21
  • Newbie
Re: Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod Question - 87 Chevy V10
« Reply #14 on: March 25, 2013, 08:05:46 PM »
That is correct. Unhooking the battery rests the wire back to to zero.

 


Facebook Comments