my swb tube chassie build with crown vic crossmember

[dale]

going to be a full tube chassie with a 2010 crown vic front susp and a twin turbo 5.3
 will try and keep yall updated.

[bake74]

     Why  crown vic front susp ?  Just curious if you had a reason other than you have a 2010 crown vic laying around.

[Skyshadow]

You had me at tube chassis! Subscribed.

[dale]

     Why  crown vic front susp ?  Just curious if you had a reason other than you have a 2010 crown vic laying around.

something different!

why spend 2000-3000 dollars on a aftermarket crossmember when you can get one off a crown vic for 350 dollars (complete) aluminum, rack, coilover struts (switching to adjustable coil overs) fit right in!  Its cheap simple and nice.

[dale]

this  how truck will look when done

[bake74]

     Very nice, I would love to follow your progress with as many pics as you want to upload, especially what you do with your crown vic front.

[Skyshadow]

     especially what you do with your crown vic front.

I'm salivating to see that as well.

[dale]

the start of the crown vic crossmember.. Narrowed 5" and ready to go!

[pitbull2332]

Narrowing it 5" answered my question, I looked into doing this on my 86 until I looked at the track width. What are your plans for the rack and pinion? looks good so far

[dale]

rack and pinion im going with is a duralast part #6046 from autozone (50 bucks) and jegs part # 550-40201 (88 bucks)

[HAULIN IT]

Dale, A couple things are rattling around in my head after looking at your pictures. Much of coarse is just my opinion & thoughts from working on my truck project & years of fooling with other stuff. Do so with it as you wish, but I'll take a moment to point out what I see. Some of this will be in the form of questions to get an idea what you have in your plan that isn't in the few pictures you've posted. Most important PLAN, PLAN, PLAN!

First, I would strongly suggest you get a motor/trans. assy. sitting in between the frame rails, with the oilpan blocked up a safe distance off the ground before you do any planning of cutting/welding metal for the frame...this is going to tell you a number of things. What size tubing are you making the main rails out of, Rectangle or Round? What are you going to use for rear suspension?
 
Second, I would STRONGLY suggest you do a body drop Incorporated in your frame build. I did a 2" angled (0" in the front-2"in the rear) to take out the "mistake" that is in most trucks as they are designed...It was one of the best modifications I've done to our truck & by design (bolted together bed, heavy rib under the cab outside the frame, ect.) it a pretty easy thing to do.
You would benefit from doing a straight 2" drop since your going to need all the help you can get at the trans. to firewall clearance...2" may not seem like worth the bother, but as you move forward many things will start to seem to be "right" if you just had more room here & there. You can go more on the body drop, but I noticed things both to the bed & cab that told me 2" was the "ideal" spot to not make way more work (fixing odd looking off-sets, gaps around the bed floor, stock carpeting, seat, pedals, ect.), some of which may or may not be of concern to you. 

Third, I would suggest cutting out the inside panel of the bedsides so you can move the tires outboard another 2"-3" per side...this will do several things, your tires now (from the side profile) look lost in the wheelwell because they are in so far...bringing them out will change that dramatically. Also, the wider track width the better handling, room for wider suspension mounting points, ect. What do you plan to do at this point for bedfloor to axle clearance?

Forth, I feel the front track width is too narrow & will not only look "incorrect", but haunt you as you move forward.  That's all for now, Have a Great Day! Lorne

[dale]

Thanks for all the info haulin it!!
This will be a street truck,  Frame is going to be 2x6 rectangle tubing (.120 wall) with 2x4 rectangle tubing (.120 wall) for cross supports.  Gonna use 1"5/8 od round tubing (.120 wall)  for cage.  Back tires will be little wider, pics are not set in stone... Just gives everyone an idea on how it will look! The rear will be a narrowed 9" with adjustable ladder bars and coil overs for now...  Will 4 link it later on.
 I narrowed the front like that and also gonna move it forward a inch or so cause im going for the pro mod look.  I have friend helping me who has built many drag cars, and trucks.  I will mention some of this to him!

(any pics or info on your truck?) would like to see it.

[travisr1988]

 
Second, I would STRONGLY suggest you do a body drop Incorporated in your frame build. I did a 2" angled (0" in the front-2"in the rear) to take out the "mistake" that is in most trucks as they are designed...It was one of the best modifications I've done to our truck & by design (bolted together bed, heavy rib under the cab outside the frame, ect.) it a pretty easy thing to do.
You would benefit from doing a straight 2" drop since your going to need all the help you can get at the trans. to firewall clearance...2" may not seem like worth the bother, but as you move forward many things will start to seem to be "right" if you just had more room here & there. You can go more on the body drop, but I noticed things both to the bed & cab that told me 2" was the "ideal" spot to not make way more work (fixing odd looking off-sets, gaps around the bed floor, stock carpeting, seat, pedals, ect.), some of which may or may not be of concern to you. 
 

Just curious, and a little lost, but what is the mistake you speak of?