How to remove brake calipers on a 1980 Chevy 2wd 1-ton?

[Logan80]

I can't find a way to get them off. I've never removed calipers on a truck of this size before. Typically there are a couple of bolts or allen bolts that hold them on, I can't find ANY bolts or fasteners that are keeping these on the truck.

Can someone with experience removing/changing calipers on this truck give me some insight on how to remove them?

[zieg85]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Reman-Brake-Caliper-Front/1985-Chevrolet-C10-1-2-ton-P-U-2WD/_/N-ijk0vZ8knro?itemIdentifier=208736_410349_2362_3312

is a picture of the caliper reverse side.  There are 2 bolts that have a 3/8" allen head from the rear

[Logan80]

The calipers on this truck do not look like that. There are no visible bolts to remove.

[zieg85]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1985-Chevrolet-C10-1-2-ton-P-U-2WD/Brake-Caliper-Bolt-Guide-Pin/_/N-ijk0vZ8knjf

Is the bolt/pins.  They are from the back

[Logan80]

These probably aren't the best pictures, but can you show me where those bolts/pins are? I can't find ANYTHING resembling a bolt like a typical caliper has.

[zieg85]

Sorry, I didn't read that it was a 1 ton, duh...  In the second picture you see an allen head bolt.  Remove it and there is a wedge that you have to hammer out.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Disc-Hardware-Kit-Rear/_/N-8kolf?itemIdentifier=34249&_requestid=2343609

is what it looks like apart

[Logan80]

Thanks, I took the allen out and pried on that plate/wedge but it didn't budge, so decided to post here. I'll give it another shot!

[winky]

i had the same problem when i first got my dually after i removed the wedge i still had a hard time getting it all lose. i ended up using a hammer and pry bar. my dually was a service truck for a construction company and had hardend slag all under it so i figured that was the cause for my hard time.

[Irish_Alley]

burn them off with a torch

[bake74]

     Irish has a good point, controlled heat can loosen all kinds of bolts that have welded themselves on.  Another product that i use when I can not get controlled heat to a bolt, is called "freeze off", I buy it at grainger, and it basically is liquid nitrogen like substance in a spray can that will drop the temp. of what you are spraying fast and expand and cause it to break the rust and welding of nut to bolt apart.

[VileZambonie]

1.Siphon two-thirds of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir serving front disc brakes.
2.Raise vehicle, support on jack stands and remove front wheels.
3.Bottom the caliper piston in bore. Insert a screwdriver between inboard pad and piston, then pry piston back into bore. The piston can also be bottomed in the bore with a large C-clamp, Fig. 2 .



4.Remove support key retaining screw.
5.Drive caliper support key and spring from steering knuckle with a suitable drift and hammer, Fig. 3 .



6.Lift caliper from anchor plate and off rotor, Fig. 4 . Hang caliper from coil spring with wire. Do not allow caliper to hang from brake hose.
7.Remove inboard brake pad from steering knuckle, then the anti-rattle spring from the brake pad.
8.Remove outboard brake pad from caliper. It may be necessary to loosen the brake pad with a hammer to permit pad removal.

[Greybeard]

Vilezamboni is da man!

You will have to pound on that wedge to get it out the first time; almost a guarantee! Onc it starts moving however, it's a breeze. On the other hand it could wore out and just fall out of there despite how stuck it is at first.

Use disc brake grease or copper or nickle antiseize (lead antiseize would be better but the treehuggers effectively got that off the market) when you put it back in. A new one is best if possible to keep the caliper from rattling.

If money isn't tight it's also best to just replace the calipers. Unless you are proficient at rebuilding them. And the rebuild parts are available. Chances are good the cylinder bore is corroded and has a nice lip wore in the end of it.

If any of this insulting sorry...never know the mechanical nature of the ones on the other end of the webz.

Take my advice with a grain of salt too. I am not a certified mechanic, I have worked on them over the years however. Still, do the homework and know what you are getting into.

Once off they are basically the same as any other disc brake just bigger. Don't forget the anti-rattle clips, if you do you'll be wondering why it sounds like you are dragging something under your truck.