My 78 k10 4x4 build thread -454 install / build -1 ton axles- frame restoration

[FearNoMan78k10]

This is a pic that the truck first looked like when I got it. Half ton axles, dry rotted tires with great tread, small block 305 , no lift to my knowledge , unwaxed unbuffed the whole 9 yards...


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[FearNoMan78k10]

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[FearNoMan78k10]

Now.... With dually 1 ton axles and suspension, lift, bigger tires, different rims, painted rims, buffed and waxed truck, big block 461 installed, and the whole 9 yards, completely different truck, wouldn't you say?


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[FearNoMan78k10]

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[FearNoMan78k10]

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[FearNoMan78k10]

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[FearNoMan78k10]

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[FearNoMan78k10]

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[FearNoMan78k10]

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[FearNoMan78k10]

I stuffed the new 33's under the truck without the lift and had to get it towed because it was undriveable... This pic is with lift /suspension/axles and big block 


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[FearNoMan78k10]

All new posts from today are current up to date on where the truck is at. Start at the top of PG 86 for new updates and pics

[Don5]

The truck is shaping up nicely! Ok I will try to answer a couple of your questions and make a few suggestions. On the fire extinguisher, you never said where you wanted to mount it. If you want to stand them up right behind the seat I suggest using some sch 40 pipe with a bottom cap on each one. You can buy a roll of the perforated metal bracing in the plumbing section and use that to mount it to the cab wall using sheet metal screws. I would just buy a 4 foot joint of pipe and cut it to length. It should be fairly cheap. Just my idea though, you might get a better one.

As for the fuse blowing out, I figure you have a bad ground somewhere on the circuit or you are pulling too much amps somewhere. Now on to the Tach. Make sure your Tach is hooked up in the right slot on the distributor. Make sure that connection is solid! If it comes undone anywhere it will be right there due to the vibration of the engine! I would use a spade connector.

As far as the timing issue. I am too far away to come over and do it. I can tell you how us old school guys timed one without the light back in the day though. I always turned the distributor toward the firewall. When it idled rough or "kicked back", I turned it back toward the front of the motor just a little. Then to test whether I had right, I would stand outside on the ground and start it without pumping the gas. If the truck started then I always thought it was right on. It always started, just saying. I never paid attention to how many degrees the timing was. The truck always started, hot weather or cold, and idled good. BTW- I drag raced the crap out of my truck back then too.

Now I have a question. No one has ever explained this to me and I have always been curious. Why did you mount your rear driveshaft upside down? Is it because that end can be replaced easier than the other end? That is the only explanation I can think of.

I hope you can get these problems figured out with your truck. BTW- That thing is going to be LOUD with that short exhaust.
   

[FearNoMan78k10]

Thanks Don for the tips and advice I appreciate it. Yeah I think so too it's been a long but unique road and the truck is starting to really grow on me with how it looks now and how it looked when I first got it.   

As per the extinguisher, yeah I want mount it behind the seat and one somewhere else ......... Trying to think of a good spot..... 


The fuse blowing out issue.... Scares me a little..... I don't want to burn the truck to the ground over a ten dollar part.  Grounding itself out might be why,,,, but for some reason I am thinking excessive load ? Not by accessories being ran.... I don't know electrical that well.  But I'm thinking it's not a ground issue.... I think it is wired correct with good connections...  A short to ground could be a cause though. So I'm not going to rule that out... Could be just a painted surface causing it... I don't know. But , it is a irritating problem since I'm unable to figure it out by myself.  Ha... 

Now for the timing issue.... This 454 has had so much work done to it, I really need it to be spot on from startup to shutdown. Too much invested to have it off by a hair even.  I don't mean to sound spoiled when I said that.

Now for your question on the driveshaft.... What do you mean it is mounted upside down? Lol. It is mounted correctly . The slip yoke needs to be on the axle side of things and the solid yoke on the transfer case end. The shop that built the driveshaft said this is how it needs to be etc etc and broke it down for me. I'm posting a huge description on driveshafts for everyone to see. It will clear up most of our questions about driveshafts , myself being very much included .

[FearNoMan78k10]

Driveshafts and the components they are built of come in a dizzying array of sizes, shapes and descriptions. They are grouped into series based upon torque ratings (and other factors) and each manufacturer, not surprisingly, has it's own particular way of doing things. We have compiled some reference materials here to help you identify some of the more common driveshaft components and accurately measure your vehicle or equipment for a new or replacement shaft. There is so much more out there that time and space will not allow us to cover here. If you have questions concerning anything you see here or don't find anything that looks like what you have please call us!
U-Joint/End Yoke Series Identification
There are a myriad of universal joints and parts used in passenger cars, light trucks, medium and heavy duty trucks and industrial applications, transmitting power to make things move. We have tried to be as complete as possible but please call us if you don't find your style of parts! You will need to take a look at your parts to narrow down the options you see here.

Outside Snap Ring Joints & Yokes GM, Chevrolet, Ford, Jeep
Inside Snap Ring Joints & Yokes GM, Chevrolet, Dodge
Combination Universal Joints Jointing different series/parts
Bearing Plate Joints & Yokes Heavy truck, industrial, oilfield
Mechanics Joints and Yokes Industrial, oilfield, older Mack Trucks
Spicer SPL Joints & Yokes OE on International and others
Meritor RPL Series OE on Freightliner
Attaching Hardware Torque Specs U-Bolts, Strap & Bolt Kits
Measuring Driveshafts for Vehicular Applications
Identifying a series of parts is one thing, and correctly measuring a car, truck or piece of equipment for a new or replacement driveshaft is still another. All require a little basic knowledge to do properly and the accuracy of the measurements play directly on the fit of the parts or driveshaft. Here we will help you understand how and what to measure so we can build your driveshaft correctly the first time.

NOTE: All vehicular driveshaft measurements should be made with the weight of the vehicle on it's wheels - suspension loaded!

Points of Measurement The secret to measuring for a driveshaft is knowing the points to measure from and to - where to put the tape. The image below shows the end fixtures most commonly found in driveshaft application. Most automotive shafts feature a transmission slip yoke at one end and an end yoke at the other, while many industrial/oilfield shafts are flanged at each end. Keep in mind that all driveshafts must have a provision for "slip" (the ability to change it's length) somewhere in the shaft. In a truck or car, for example, the engine/transmission power plant is installed on flexible mounts while the rear axle is hung from the vehicle's suspension - everything is moving. The driveshaft must be able to accommodate this motion. This fact will help you understand the how's and why's of driveshaft measurement. Think of measuring for your driveshaft as simply measuring from point A to point B, with a point C tossed in there for a two-piece driveshaft. If you know where to place and read your tape for each of these three points you can correctly measure your car, truck or other application correctly.

Point A: The end of the driveshaft at the power source, usually a transmission. There are but three different types of fixtures here: automotive and light truck shafts usually have a transmission slip yoke at point A, though some have a fixed end yoke. Transmission slips do as they are named - the yoke is long and splined onto the output shaft of the transmission, providing the necessary slip for the driveshaft to work as the vehicle's power plant and suspension work. Fixed end yokes and fixed companion flanges are fixed by a nut or a bolt to the transmission shaft - no movement here. In these cases the slip is built into the driveshaft with a slip yoke/splined stub set of parts. (Remember a driveshaft must be able to change length as it operates!) In the image below, Point A is either the centerline of the u-joint cap (in the case of a transmission slip or and end yoke) or the face-of-flange (in the case of a companion flange. Please note that a transmission slip yoke should be set in it's operating position (0.75" off bottom) prior to measuring.

Point B: The output end of the driveshaft, usually at the axle. The axle will have a fixed end yoke or companion flange attached to the pinion. So, Point B is the centerline of the u-joint cap (for an end yoke) or the face-of-flange (for a companion flange) at the power output end of the driveshaft.

Point C: Driveshafts that run long distances must, in most cases, be sectioned into shorter pieces that require a center bearing (carrier bearing) to support the connection of the front and rear sections. Point C is the centerline of the bearing and is most accurately measured from the center of one of the two bolts that hold the bearing assembly in place. Carrier bearing ends consist of two or three components: the bearing itself is pressed onto a bearing stub. Some bearing stubs are long and used with forward-facing slip yoke on the rear driveshaft. Others are short and have a fixed end yoke or fixed companion flange, using a rear-facing slip yoke on the rear driveshaft. Automotive and light truck applications usually have the long bearing stub setup, while heavy truck's use the fixed yoke style bearing end. Refer to the image below for your bearing end style and heed the notes for each!

PLEASE NOTE: Parts shown in this image are representing a type of part, not your particular part. Your slip yoke or center bearing may not look just like the ones in the image but it will look like one of these part types. Identify the type of part(s) in your driveshaft and use the points of measurement for that type.


Measuring Driveshafts for Auxillary Equipment
Auxillary equipment driveshafts are measured a bit differently. In new installations the driving output shaft and the driven input shaft are just that: round keyed or splined shafts without any end yokes, flanges or other fixtures installed. In the image below we have used a power takeoff and a hydraulic pump as examples of auxillary components that may be truck mounted. Others include winches, product pumps, right angle gearboxes, etc. All are measured for driveshafts in the same manner: tip-of-shaft to tip-of-shaft. Measuring the diameter and key size of a round shaft or, in this image, the diameter and spline count of a splined shaft is necessary as well to have the right end fittings installed on the shaft when it is built. Please give us a call if you need help measuring for your auxillary equipment shaft requirements.


Use the Resources!
Use the U-Joint Identification section to ID your series of parts, then use the Measuring For Driveshafts section to accurately measure your car, truck or auxillary driveshaft. We'll be quite impressed when you call us to order a 1350 Series driveshaft at 54.5" C-C for your hotrodded Camaro!



Parts list, service and installation guides and more. Click to open the PDF file and use the table of contents on the left margin to navigate. We have included some of the most common reference books here. For a more complete listing please go to our Contact/Links page to access Chelsea's online library.
Chelsea PTO
Some parts lists and manuals are quite large PDF files and may load slowly, dependant upon your internet connection. Patience is a virtue.

270 Parts List 6-bolt hotshift for Allison
277/278 Parts List 10-bolt for Allison New World
340 Parts List 6-bolt heavy duty forward & reverse
442/489 Parts List 6/8 bolt single speed workhorse
823 Parts List 8-bolt extreme duty single speed
852 Parts List 8-bolt hotshift oilfield mainstay
863 Parts List 8-bolt extreme duty forward & reverse
880 Parts List 8-bolt heavy duty single speed
230/270/271/852 Install Guide Clutch Pack PTOs
277/278/859 Install Guide For Allison New World Transmissions
Muncie PTO
TG Parts List 6/8-bolt single speed
RL Parts List 6/8-bolt forward & reverse
83 Parts List 8-bolt forward & reverse




Hydraulic applications are quite common in mobile power and varies in it's use and circuitry. Here are a few references we hope you find helpful.

Permco Gemini Dual use pump/valve for end dump and live floor applications
Permco Gear Pump/Bearing Specs Flows and horsepower requirements by series
Permco Bushing Pump Specs Flows and horsepower requirements: 197, 257 Series
Permco Gear Motor Specs Flow, HP and RPM specifications






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[FearNoMan78k10]

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