Have spark have fuel but engine will not start

[swilliams]

Hope the link works. It is to show that i am getting good spark.
goodspark.shutterfly.com/videos

[Liltroy]

once again....if you have verified that you dropped the distributor in and timed correctly, check your fuel pressure. just because a little squirts out doesnt mean youve got enough.

[swilliams]

That is true but with starting fluid i should at least get a small resopnse.
I am going to get a guage also.

[roundhouse]

When we swapped over to TBI.  We couldn't get the dizzy in right

We wound up taking an old distributor cap and using a dremel  cut the center out  so we could actually SEE where the rotor was pointing

That made it easy 
Buy a new cap and cut a hole in the top of  your old one

[swilliams]

That will help I have an old one to use thanks

[roundhouse]

It was the only thing that would work for us

You think the rotor is pointed a certain way but it's usually off a little.   Or a lot

I just used a dremel with a cutoff wheel and zipped out the entire center of the cap

Set the crank pulley to zero degrees
And stab the dizzy in
It doesn't matter which  electrode the rotor is pointing at
As long as you use that electrode as number one

You can also stab it in 180* off

No way to know since the crank rotates twice as much as the cam

When setting the timing. I use a vacuum gauge
When the engine is warm and idling move the dizzy around until you get the highest vacuum

And then set it by ear doing test drives if it's a manual or bY power braking if its an automatic

Just stand on the brakes and put a load on the engine while an assistant slowly advances the dizzy till it knocks then back off a little

If its a manual find a hill where you can floor it in second gear lugging the engine a little

Keep advancing the timing till it pings when you lug It under full throttle

I don't pay any attn to the actual numbers

I have a 90 mustang engine EFI in my 73 Bronco

It runs good with 32* advance

About double what it's supposed to be
But that's where it runs best

[swilliams]

FInally sucess!! I took a few day(had to work anyway) started back in today and finally hot it to fire and start. Still needs tuning but i have a TINK noise randemly whyle ideling have not tried to rev it up. Is this just lifters that need adjusting or is it the ping of it being out of time? I went through at install and checked all 16 and have them at 1 turn past 0 lash. How would i go about readjusting them? Thanks for all the help getting it started.

[VileZambonie]

Why don't you explain how you adjusted the valves to us....

[swilliams]

I would spin the rods between my fingers untill i had slight resistance and no lifter to rocker arm play then tighten the nut 1 complete turn then lock down set screw. Since the original post i have gone back and added another 1/4 turn and backed timing to 8 or 9 deg BTDC. It has helped but it seems like i still have lifter tick or headers are leaking.

[rich weyand]

What you are describing is probably what we used to call "header slap".  Headers are thin walled compared to heavy cast-iron manifolds.  You are actually hearing exhaust pulses hitting the header tubes.  The Hooker 2453, for example, has tubes 3 and 4 bending back at right angles along the engine.  Google "header noise" and you will see you are not alone.

Anyway, some headers do it, some don't, and it also depends on the cam and the heads.  Fast-ramp cams and high-flow heads are more prone to it.

I hadn't heard headers up close and personal in decades, and I thought it was a header leak, but my speed shop guys reminded me that that's just the way some headers sound.  They checked for a leak anyway, and for lifter issues, but all was good.

[Engineer]

You need to adjust the valves while the lifter is sitting on the base circle of the cam.

There is a sequence where you can adjust a few of the valves while the engine is on #1 firing, then rotate to #6 firing and adjust the remaining valves.

One other method is to adjust only #1 on #1 firing then rotate the crankshaft 90° adjust #8, then crank 90° then #4, and continue in the firing order until all 8 are adjusted.

When you tested for compression did you check all 8? Or just 1. If you have compression on all 8 then I would suspect the valve adjustment is not your issue.

[LTZ C20]

Just like Rich said, header tick. It can be confusing until you realize what it is. I have high flow heads, headers and dual exhuast. I noticed that after I used header wrap on the pipes under the cab it has quieted down a lot and with cooling fans running it's not super loud. Between my exhuast,  sound of engine running, fans and the stereo jacked up haha I rarely hear it now, even when I'm starring right at the headers.

[swilliams]

Thanks for that. Knowing its not just me and mine makes me feel better.

[VileZambonie]

You need to adjust the valves while the lifter is sitting on the base circle of the cam.

This....

So are you saying you just randomly adjusted them and not in the proper sequence? You'll be bending push rods and burning valves in no time if you haven't already.

[swilliams]

No  I went through and just after the intake valve closed on each cylinder where there was no pressure on each valve then adjusted


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