Engine swap diary

[Stewart G Griffin]

Thanks.  i can't do any drilling until the Trans mount arrives.  This should hopefully get the engine and trans centered properly.

[gutts]

i'm thinking i might just go with a new crate 350 and be done with it.   

Rice burner ?

[Stewart G Griffin]

i'm thinking i might just go with a new crate 350 and be done with it.   

Rice burner ?

i decided to bite the bullet and go ahead with the v-6.  i figure i'd be happier that way in the long run as i rarely tow or haul heavy and basically use the truck for transportation---with the occasional ability to pickup bulky items for weekend projects.   If i had gone with the crate 350, the truck would most likely be running by now.   But i don't think i'd be as happy in the long run.

[Stewart G Griffin]

Ok, i got the new trans mount installed and the trans crossmember put back in place.  It did seem to help get everything centered up.  i went with Energy Suspension pt.# 3-1108.  It's polyurethane which i think is more durable than the stock rubber mount.  It was $25 or so at Jeg's.

Next, it's on to drilling which i may not be able to get to until next weekend, but hopefully sooner.


i know Greybeard mentioned using a split-point bit which i will look into.
Any other tips for drilling?

[zieg85]

slow and steady, use cutting oil (regular motor oil works) and let the bit to the work.

[Greybeard]

Hey,
   Google split point or pilot point drill bits. They cut faster and much easier than a regular bit. The trick is to get the drill speed at the speed the bit wants. A variable speed drill is best obviously, A cobalt bit drills better and faster than a HSS bit (by hand) but cost considerably more. Drilling is as much art as science. Perfect pressure and bit speed with a steady drill motor (no rocking) and it amazing how easy hand drilling can be, get any of those things seriously wrong and it can become the greatest frustration known to man. A high quality cutting oil is best, and they usually evaporate with little or no trace. I haven't used regular motor oil for drilling in a couple of decades but IIRC it smokes a lot and carbonizes more. 

[Stewart G Griffin]

Thanks for the drilling tips.  i will not be able to get to this for a while because something came up.

The only things left are:
Drill holes in frame for the new mounts

Exhaust re-work  (small block is slightly different from v-6.  Different enough to where it's not a bolt in)

New/different radiator hoses/trim heater hoses to fit.

Figure out throttle cable /kickdown cable mounting. May be able to use v-8's

Reprogram tach to run on 6 cylinders instead of eight.

Reconnect temp gauge

May have to lenghthen power steering hoses

May have to lenghthen fuel lines to fuel pump.

Reconnect alternator and starter wiring.

Install electric fan properly

[Stewart G Griffin]

What size should the hole be drilled at?     i'm thinking 3/8"?

[zieg85]

Same as what the V-8 perches used.  Pretty sure they are bigger than 3/8"

[Stewart G Griffin]

Believe it or not, i think they really are 3/8."   Drilling went ok.   i used a transfer punch because i already had the engine in and did not want to go thru the hassle of disconnecting the trans and taking the engine out etc.  So i actually drilled thru the holes of the mounts.

i used a drop of regular oil every 20 seconds or so.

And got all the perch bolts in.

[Greybeard]

Good deal! This my regular bimonthly rollaround through here. If regular oil works use what ya have. I remember we had some of the foulest looking thick black cutting oil I've ever seen at work, and it stank to high heaven, but it worked. All it's for is to cool the cutting edge by/and providing lubrication. It stands to reason that whichever side is hotter is also softer. The kicker here is that the cutting edge of a drill bit is very thin, therefore easier to heat up.

I have always preferred cutting holes through a preexisting hole. Cit the first hole insert bolt and tighten, rinse and repeat.

[Stewart G Griffin]

Ok, engine is officially in truck----all perches/mounts are bolted in and tightened.  The perch bolts are 9/16" socket and the nuts seemed to work best with a 15mm boxwrench.

Next, both fuel lines(the rubber part) will have to be lengthened to reach the fuel pump.   Would anyone happen to know the sizes of the rubber hoses, both supply and return, going to the fuel pump?

[Stewart G Griffin]

Fuel hoses installed.  i went with Thermoid brand fuel injection hoses.  5/16" for supply, 1/4" for return.

Exhaust

Radiator hoses

Throttle/trans kickdown

Vacuum booster brake line

Tighten converter/bellhousing and transmount bolts to correct specs

Reprogram to tach for 6 cyls

reconnect temp gauge

Install starter

Install alternator

Install P/S mounts and extent P/S lines

Intall electric fan properly

[Stewart G Griffin]

Radiator hoses from the 4.3, surprisingly, bolted right up to the v-8's radiator.  May provide pics tomorrow if there is time.


NEXT CRISIS:

Throttle bracket and cable are too far back to work  (cable has bottomed out in this position)   The kickdown cable, i think, can be adjusted but i'm not sure.   Any suggestions?

[Stewart G Griffin]

Ordered new, shorter, correct throttle cable "Pioneer Automotive" brand from summitt.  Apparently on the 4.3 the carb sits a few inches further back compared to the v-8. Probably about 4.5" further back----the v-8 cable is like 24"and some change and the v-6 cable is 20.75"
 
Working on installing brake booster line to back of carb, intall throttle bracket and adjust kickdown cable if it can be adjusted?

Will provide pics asap.