1975 K-10 Project

[BBM3]

Park on a flat surface and measure ground to lip of wheel well to get an accurate measurement.

I believe the horizontal fore-aft character line is meant by design to be parallel with the ground plane and hub centers.
The front and rear wheel openings by design are not.

Regardless of how the suspension is set or body sits on the frame when I measure from the character line to the top center of the front and rear wheel openings I see the rear opening is ~7-1/8" and the front is ~5-3/4".

This is what causes my eye to see theses trucks sagging in the rear when they are actually level.

Maybe it's just me?


Edit: Spelling

[BBM3]

It has been awhile since my last update.

I've had other cars in the fleet to work on recently and the fuel delivery problem I have been dealing with on the K10 frustrated me to the point of setting it aside.

In the past week finally I got back to work on the K10.
I decided to restart by reducing the fuel system to it's most basic components.
I removed the fuel selector valve, the frame rail mounted fuel filter, and replaced the rubber fuel line running from the LH tank to the RH frame mounted hard line.
Finally, Success! I drove the truck on the same circuit that always ended in sitting on the side of the road waiting for everything to cool off so I could limp back home.
Next I am going to drop the RH fuel tank, inspect the tank and sender, and replace the rubber section of fuel line. Re-install the fuel selector valve and hopefully be done with the fuel system?

Last weekend I flushed the cooling system (again). Forget the flush tee in the heater hose method. It didn't do much. This time I did it right. I back flushed the heater core, radiator, and engine block separately. I removed the thermostat, plugs in the lower block and repeated at least a dozen times until clear water in finally ran out clear. The crud that came out was other worldly.

Monday I replaced the cap and rotor and set the timing. The mighty 350 now starts and idles hot or cold as if it were fuel injected.

Yesterday I installed rear air shocks.

Today I installed new front shocks, drained the rear diff, installed a new gasket and refilled.

I think I have a bad bearing on the left side of the diff. I need to do some reading to figure out what is involved in replacing the bearings.

Tomorrow I will change the front diff oil and gasket and after putting it off forever, flush and bleed the brake system.

I need to remind myself that I bought this truck for the enjoyment and reward of saving it from further disrepair and an eventual date with the crusher. 

[enaberif]

Bearings aren't too bad as long as you have the proper tools. The most basic you will need is the 4 prong socket for the spindle nuts and the rest can be done with basic hand tools.

If you are doing the bearings you might as well do the seals and everything else too and look at our ujoints and ball joints.

[BBM3]

Sorry I meant the LH rear carrier bearing and yes, both u-joints are tight.
When I had the cover off of the rear diff today I rotated the yoke back and forth expecting to see ring and pinion slop.
Ring and pinion mesh and wear look great.
What I did notice is what looked like play in the left carrier bearing. I was able to move the ring gear slightly cross car.
I think I remember reading that the LH carrier bearing is adjustable? I need to RTFM tonight.

Thanks for the reply and any further thoughts.

[LTZ C20]

Sounds like good progress! Feel free to swing by my place and do it again on mine haha. I'll even let ya use my tools. Just kidding.

[BBM3]

Thanks for the gracious offer LTZ.

[LTZ C20]

Your very welcome.

[BBM3]

I learned something today.

Found this quote by Rich W in another thread:

Read the first three posts here: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/distributor-tuning-theory-part-1-a-59033.html

A previous owner installed an Edelbrock 1406 on my '75 non-emission controlled truck and connected the vacuum advance to ported vacuum.
I just swapped to manifold vacuum. What a difference! Idle and throttle response are much improved and hopefully fuel economy will benefit too.

If you are reading this Rich, Thank you very much.

[BBM3]

I decided to layoff the heavy work this weekend and do some easy stuff.
Cleaned, primed, and painted the LH interior door trim as a test. Very happy with the result.
It will be interesting to see how it holds up.

LH Door Trim Before: (Wrong color from a PO re-spray, chalky, and worn)


LH Door Trim After:


I have been trying to get the windows to roll up without having to use two hands.
I removed the LH window regulator, straightened the arms, pressed the pivot rivet tighter, cleaned, lubed, and reset the run channels. Afterwards the window rolled down fine but still took too much force to roll up.

Today I tried lubricating all of the moving parts as well as the seals on the run channels with dry silicone spray.
Instant success. While I was spraying the stuff around I hit every moving part in the door. Lock rods, hinges, and latches.
The LH door now works like new.
Don't know how long it will last but for now the stuff is magic.

[LTZ C20]

Door panel looks good.

[BBM3]

Thanks LTZ,

With the newly painted door panel installed I clearly see the scope of the interior cosmetic work I have waiting.

[enaberif]

Thanks LTZ,

With the newly painted door panel installed I clearly see the scope of the interior cosmetic work I have waiting.

Interior is a SLIPPPPPERY slope my friend.. You have no idea what you started.

[BBM3]

I believe I do.
That is why I have been focusing on the underside of the truck and putting off the cosmetic.

As if I don't have enough to work on. I found another truck I am going to have a look at tomorrow.

[1967KaiserM715]

I believe I do.
That is why I have been focusing on the underside of the truck and putting off the cosmetic.

As if I don't have enough to work on. I found another truck I am going to have a look at tomorrow.

tread carefully... or not, I currently have 3 ongoing projects, and they all take a little bit of my time, but right now, I wouldn't have it any other way

[LTZ C20]

I would love another square. Either a suburban or crew dually.