Ball joints for a 1985 Chevy k10

[enaberif]

To be honest it may sound like the mechanics are charging a lot but when you factor in prices of parts and tools you'll be paying twice as much.

For example I picked up the spindle socket with the 4 points and it cost me $20. I picked up the ball joint removal tool and it cost me $90. That already is over $100.

Also take into consideration if you are doing ball joints its time to look at the ujoints of the front shafts as well as your bearings and seals. The seals and bearings will be at least another $150 cost to do as well.

Also spanner wrench for ball joint preload? Never heard of such a thing and will have to look into that myself.

** EDIT **

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=101152

[Blazin]

$300 to $400 per side is not bad money at all.  Even better money if it includes parts.
They can be done in the driveway though.
A good quality jack, & jack stands are a must. A spindle nut / hub nut socket too.
Set both sides of front axle on jack stands. Between the shock mounts, & knuckle is a good spot.
Lay out a clean rag to set the hub parts, & spindle nuts on in order they come out.
Clean, & check out all the hub parts for wear, or damage. Re grease them all when re installing.
Use a brass punch to knock the back bearing & seal out, or a seal puller from the back side.
Clean the old grease out of the old bearings, inspect them, & the race for any scratches, or missing finish. If there is any question replace them. Make sure you pack the bearings, not just slather the outside with grease when re installing.
Remove the spindle, inspect the bearing inside the the spindle. These bearings are very commonly overlooked. Coat the spindle with grease before you slide the hub / rotors back on when re assembling.
There is a kit available to replace the inner bearings, & the rubber / plastic dust boot that goes over the short axle shaft that helps keep these bearings clean of crud.
Remove the axle shafts. ( This is a great time to replace the axle joints. )
Since you are replacing the ball joints don't worry about trying to get the cotter pins out. Cut them off as close to the nut as you can. Whack the correct size socket down onto the nut, it will fit over whats left of the cotter pin. Take an impact & spin the nut off. The nut will clean the cotter pin right off.  I usually leave the top nut on a few threads. This way when the knuckle comes loose it doesn't fall completely off. As far as the tie rod nuts, & drag link nut if you can't get those cotter pins out you can cut them off with the nut as well, Usually doesn't hurt the threads. Then you can use a drill to removes whats left of the cotter pins.
Then you will need to remove the bottom nut. If you don't have an impact swivel you will need to use hand tools.
Use a pickle fork to separate the knuckle from the axle. If the fork doesn't separate them leave it in for pressure. Then whack down on the knuckle. Be careful not to hit the spindle studs.
Put it in the vise, & use a ball joint press to remove & install them.
Then reassemble.
Use the ball joint press to remove, & install the axle joints too if you decide to replace them.
Rep[lace the tie rod, & drag link cotter pins with new ones is a good idea too, even if you did get them to come out.

[Greybeard]

I'm only saying this because of the seventeen year old reference on the part of the OPer. When you clean the axle bearings do not use gas, do not rub with with towels, do not use compressed air to spin dry a clean bearing. If you do not have a parts cleaner with filtered washer fluid use kerosene instead. Diesel is cheaper but dirtier. Otherwise a few cans of contact cleaner works (expensive). I don't use starting fluid, brake cleaner, or carb cleaner since these can be a fire hazard. Trans fluid works pretty good too but then still needs to be cleaned off before packing with fresh grease. A good nylon bristle brush will be required for whatever cleaner you use.

It's all the little details that take so long for some things. Little things like not having a clean pan to put things in for cleaning if a parts washer is not available, forgetting the wire for when the caliper needs held out of the way, having the wrong sized pickle fork (which BTW can also be used with an air hammer), and the list of little things keeps accumulating. For me, add to that the fact I have to work on my stuff on a gravel drive and the frustrations skyrocket.

Good luck!   

[Edemich]

If you haven't purchased your ball joints yet take a look at RockAuto.com.  They are half the price as the box carpart stores and it's the same part.

Has anyone commented on the spanner tool referenced in the second post required to preload the top ball joint? I am getting ready to do this and am curious what he meant.

[Irish_Alley]

There's an adjustment sleeve on the top knuckle. You can use a punch and hammer idk the problems with doing it this way and the proper way to adjust it

[enaberif]

If you haven't purchased your ball joints yet take a look at RockAuto.com.  They are half the price as the box carpart stores and it's the same part.

Has anyone commented on the spanner tool referenced in the second post required to preload the top ball joint? I am getting ready to do this and am curious what he meant.

Its a tool by OTC part # 7080 and yes you need this tool to remove the sleeve and install it as you need to torque it down properly.

I bought it locally last minute and it cost me $30.

http://www.amazon.ca/OTC-7080-Joint-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B0002SRDEG

[Greybeard]

I guess the Original Poster never came back? Since I only visit here every month or two these days, I don't keep up very good. Nevertheless....

My original 1978 shop service manual (this poor manual has seen better days since I bought it in about 1980) says to check preload of the top ball joint while turning the knuckle with a fish scale attached to it. With everything disconnected from the knuckle and the fish scale attached to the tie rod end hole with knuckle in the straight forward position the maximum amount of force to keep the knuckle moving (after it breaks free and starts moving) is 25 lbs in both directions. The sleeve DOES have a torque adjustment done at the time of new installation of 50ftlbs (before the new ball joint is installed obviously) and the retaining nut to 100ftlbs minimum (after the ball joint is installed) or slightly more to get a cotter key slot to line up, never loosen to align the slot. It also says due caution needs to be used when installing, removing, or adjusting this sleeve so as not to bugger up the fine threads inside, the sleeve is hardened steel, the knuckle threads are not. To adjust, loosen and remove the ball stud top nut, loosen the sleeve slightly (as necessary) and re-torque the top nut and recheck the preload, rinse and repeat as necessary. 

For what it's worth, this is, as I mentioned, for the 78 model year K model 1/2 tons (12 bolts and Dana 44's) but most axles should be the same in the 73- 86 plus era with standard axles.