73 C20 Performance Engine Build

[LTZ C20]

That made me chuckle....  The page Rich linked is, though titled for 73-78 ALL..., an illustration of a G van (P/N 336936), which is 81.45" in length.  GM did that because the firewall was forward of the carburetor.  It went all the way around the barn to get through the front door!  And, believe it or not, that was the second design!   

The P/N for the CK-1, 2, 3, et al, w/350 is 336935 and as stated is ~25" long.  Don't forget that the accelerator cable does a Ferris Wheel loopty-loop to allow for engine movement.  It sounds like the service cable you picked up is correct.

Lol it was nice to look at the pictures tho! Thanks guys, looks like I'm good then.

Seperate question, the exhuast studs, their nuts should torque to factory specs for a bolt? Lighter torque rating? 35? 15? I don't know, they are in aluminum heads.

[bd]

Don't bother with a torque wrench on the exhaust bolts.  Tighten them by feel the same as you would tighten a bolt of similar size.  Using a torque wrench on smaller bolt sizes in aluminum often doesn't end well, because of variations in torque wrench calibration at lower settings.  Be sure to use lock washers and some anti-seize.

[LTZ C20]

Ok. The ARP stud kit I got came with the studs, washers, and the nuts. No lock washers, but the nuts are flange nuts and the bottoms have the teeth formed into them so they grab when you tighten them down. ARP instructed I use anti-sieze if I want them to come back out and loctite if I don't. So the studs are loctited on the head side, on the nut side I should be the anti-sieze then?

[bd]

Use anti-seize on the nuts.

[LTZ C20]

Got it. Thank you again gents. I believe that's all the questions I have for now. Will update soon with pics but for now I'll hint that the engine is in the truck.

[LTZ C20]

Well the engine is in. Got that done yesterday, along with bolting the trans up and torque converter to flywheel. Today it has been just attaching evrything. I'm having to run to the hardware store for nuts for the header studs. They are flange nuts and the flange is hiding the header tubes so it's either get new nuts or grind the flange off 8 of the 12 nuts, just gonna get 8 regular grade 8 nuts.

Also, my old big heavy starter fits! So I didn't have to get a new one, that's always good.













Yesterday morning we had a little accident, I was unloaded the engine hoist out of my mom's truck, it went all humpty dumpty and fell over and unfortunately smacked the truck pretty good on the way down on the right hand bed side.



The big 1 over the wheel well is pretty deep, it creased the sheet metal. Some spots are down to bare steel, like the grey spot.

[FlatBlack77]

aw dam dude that sucks about the bed.

but at least your making awesome progress! it looks great

[LTZ C20]

Yea it wasn't a good feeling for sure. Two things to be thankful for tho, 1 it wasn't a nice paint job, has spray paint patches (biggest bei BG the whole hood) and 2 I'm not gonna use this bed forever, it's an 80 something bed on a 73, I have a proper 73 bed to use, just haven't got around to swapping them.

Today saw the completion, pretty much everything that needs to be hooked or attached. Spark plugs, disti, TBI unit, wiring harnesses plugged in, ac comp and power steering pump on,  fuel lines and exhuast. Only things left are plug wires put on the plugs, cooling system topped off, oil fill and then just a few little things and it will be ready to see if it runs.

[LTZ C20]

Good news all! The engine is all hooked up, running and running good! (Knock on wood) I did have some issues along the way but over all I was able to get it all worked out.

First off, the nuts included with the header studs were flange nuts, to get those to clear the header tubes, I had to go to the hardware store and get flange - less regular grade 8 nuts. Also, I had to grind a flat onto 1 side of 4 washers as to clear the tubes. Then I had to dimple the tubes at the inside bolt hole on the tubes for cylinders 1, 7, 2 & 8. So the 4 corner cylinder, their tubes needed dimples to clear the nuts. Once that all got done, the headers when on pretty easy.

Next, I had problems for some reason getting the 3 bolts for the power steering pump onto the serpentine bracket. They went together easy when I did the serp orginally, so for whatever reason they were being difficult, I took the lock washers off 2 of the bolts and it then worked after some careful adjusting.

Lastly, after first start up and checking over everything multiple times, it was time to drive it! The drive went well, good power, ran really good, response is immediate, fans were comming on as needed, all was good....until I smelt burning oil, got home and found the left valve cover was puking!! That's right folks, I pulled the cover off and the seal was just all loosie goosie and flopping around like a wet noodle. I cleaned the cover, the gasket, the head, applied a bead of rtv sealer to both the head side and cover side, no more leaks! I found a small little spot at the front of the oil pan gasket where the block, front cover and pan all meet. It wasn't puking but was a small bleeder, I cleaned the area and applied a small smear of rtv to the joint, that sealed that up as well. I applied rtv to all of these joints originally, again for no apparent reason the rtv didn't shmush into the left front corner. Fixed now tho.

That's all the malfunctions I had. I believe my valves may benefit from being adjusted while engine is running, that I'm considering letting a professional friend do for me, some times you can do all the big stuff but when it comes down to fine tuning things juuuuust right, it's reassuring and less stressful to let a very experienced pro do it. Overall tho, she runs really good and feels strong and powerful. I drove her last night and today, back and forth to work and home, no problems as of yet to report.

My girlfriend took a video of the first start up, I will post that as soon as I get it from her.

More pictures!







The truck, after pulling it out after sitting since February. Got it all washed up and clean and shiny!











I thought you guys would really like some pics of the truck itself and not just what's under the hood. I'm soooo happy that I have my truck back, it feels really good to be back in MY truck. Its like getting your happy place back lol.

Thank you so much to BD, Enaberif, BBM3, Rich W and everyone else for your much appreciated responses and help. This is exactly why I love being a member and supporter here. You guys are great, thanks everybody!!

[enaberif]

Good job. Truck looks good and engine looks good. Regarding those leaks that is exactly why on my truck I put nothing but Felpro blue gaskets.

Even installed when it was -5 Celsius my truck has no leak issues at all.

[bd]

It's a GREAT feeling when it all comes together.  Good job!

[LTZ C20]

Good job. Truck looks good and engine looks good. Regarding those leaks that is exactly why on my truck I put nothing but Felpro blue gaskets.

Even installed when it was -5 Celsius my truck has no leak issues at all.

I only use Felpro gaskets, I used the ones recommended for the head by Dart. Oh well. It's good now.

Thanks, it really looks half decent when it's clean.

[LTZ C20]

It's a GREAT feeling when it all comes together.  Good job!

It is! Thank you!

[FlatBlack77]

nice work man it pays off!

[LTZ C20]

nice work man it pays off!

Thank! Yes it does!