A/C Condenser Fitment

[fxrsrider]

'75 C10 Shortbed

Will the later model ('83-'87) A/C condensers fit the core support wall of an early model ('73-'75)?

'75s ran R12 refrigerant and the condensers have large i.d. tubes that do not condense R134a efficiently.  I'm looking to swap my original '75 condenser so that I can run R134a....and am wondering if the later model condensers will bolt on or if I'll run into any fitment issues.

Thank you in advance for your help...

[VileZambonie]

 Have you already completed the retrofit? Why not see how it performs before you waste your time replacing the condenser?

[fxrsrider]

No, I haven't completed the retrofit.

I just got back from a local specialist shop named Walnut Auto Air.  The owner has been doing auto a/c's since '83.....does everything and sells parts.  He explained the whole thing to me.....and did make the point that the 134a will run through my R12 condenser.  He basically said the same thing....we can do it and see how it performs...."you may have to add an electric fan to push more air through your condenser," he said.  He also pointed out that my cab is relatively small, unlike a Suburban or Crew Cab.

He handed me a cross section of the two different condensers.........the condensers designed for 134a are a better design....no doubt.

My primary interest is to do the job right the first time.  At $75 a pop for crimped rubber lines, I don't want to have to "redo" the system if it doesn't work well.  I'm also running several braided hose lines....which are far more pricey than the crimped rubber hose.

This is just my "due diligence" before I move forward...

[blazer74]

Didn't r134 come in around 93 or so. I had a 92 S10 that was still R12. So your 83 to 87 would still be old style tube and fin condenser.

You want a parallel flow condenser which your not going to find a direct fit unless you had one custom made.

Also your 75 has the condenser in front of the radiator support, later models approx and not quoting around 81 or so have the condenser mounted behind the rad support and in front of the radiator.

Best bet if you don't want to stay with the original style condenser is to get the biggest aftermarket parallel flow you can fit in the space and fab brackets and lines.

You could actually use one a bit smaller than the original due to the increase of efficiency of the parallel design.

You might want to consider doing a sanden compressor conversion unless your keeping the original look.

The original long A6 compressors are hard to find a good one that doesn't sling oil onto the under side of hood. New ones are pricey.


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[fxrsrider]

Thank you, Blazer.  I was overlooking a few major details regarding the model years....thank you for clearing that up.

I did install a 508 compressor when I installed the serpentine drive system a week ago....so at least I have that going for me at present. 

I'm thinking your suggestion about the universal parallel flow is the direction I'm going to take.  I already put an aluminum rad in....so I have a little bit of room for changes in front of the rad now (since the new rad isn't a perfect OEM replacement fit)

I'll post some pics later today...

[blazer74]

Again the 75 condenser is on the front side of the rad support not on the same side as the radiator, if your using the original grill watch for space between the grill and aftermarket condenser its limited.
Good choice with the 508, cleaner and smaller install. Frees up the valve cover too.


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[fxrsrider]

Did some more research today.  Found a new OE replacement, "engineered for OE form, fit and function and meets or exceeds OEM standards," in the aluminum, extruded tube style (ideal for R134a) for $65 from a reputable auto-parts resource.

...I think I found my answer 

now I have to figure out the rest of the system.

Again...thanks for all your help!

[roundhouse]

Did some more research today.  Found a new OE replacement, "engineered for OE form, fit and function and meets or exceeds OEM standards," in the aluminum, extruded tube style (ideal for R134a) for $65 from a reputable auto-parts resource.

...I think I found my answer 

now I have to figure out the rest of the system.

Again...thanks for all your help!

share the link for the part you found

I've heard that the ones from a late 90s Yukon will fit with a little mod. But haven't tried it


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[Jason S]

Thinking ahead a bit,

When I assembled a factory A/C system on my '73 GMC (a decade ago), I had an issue with finding an aftermarket accumulator that would correctly fit the '75-back factory evaporator. I swapped to a '76-up evaporator and use the more readily available late style accumulator. 

[frotosride]

I know you said that you already had your solution but just for reference... My '87 has been converted to qera since the mid 90's and I have had only one problem and it was air flow through the condenser due to a larger speedway radiator. My e-fans weren't able to pull through the condenser. A little FYI the 508 has a built in relief @400-/+25 psi. Lesson learned.
Don't forget the expansion tube for 134a if you forget this you will get flood back and can ruin your new compressor. 

[fxrsrider]

share the link for the part you found

I'm never sure how specific I should be in my posts.  A few times I've noticed my posts are censored for language (ok...I'll keep it PG)....but then once I attempted to post a link to a supplier and the link was automatically changed to "competitor.com"....even the name of the company was erased from my post.  So I assume the guys at the top of this forum have an interest in keeping these posts limited when it comes to the sourcing of parts.

But....since so many people are asking....here's what I found.

Item specifics:

Brand: APDI
Manufacturer Part Number:   7013612
Outlet Type:   Block Connection
UPC:   887548018397
Inlet Type:   # 6 Female O Ring
Other Part Number:   C3612, 636120, P36120, 7-3612, 73612, A208, C61200   
Interchange Part Number:   24-30366, 2053, 3612, 200053, 15-6121, 36120, 7580
Core Length [IN]:   28 7/8

[fxrsrider]

My '87 has been converted to qera since the mid 90's and I have had only one problem and it was air flow through the condenser due to a larger speedway radiator. My e-fans weren't able to pull through the condenser. A little FYI the 508 has a built in relief @400-/+25 psi. Lesson learned.
Don't forget the expansion tube for 134a if you forget this you will get flood back and can ruin your new compressor.

Much appreciated.  Yes, that expansion tube is important......to make things even more of a pain, there's a Design 1 and a Design 2 for these truck's a/c systems.  Since my '75 is "early" it was "blessed"  with the 1st design, which is not as easy to find parts for.

As a side note, as I'm adding up all of my figures....I'm coming to find that parts and labor for this system upgrade is not cheap.  I am doing all of the work.....but even wholesale price hose lines run $75-$85 a piece....then there's the compressor, condenser, controller, sensors, etc.

I'm beginning to consider an aftermarket system that moves everything to sit underneath the dash (cleans up the engine bay) and removes the headache of vacuum lines.....using servo motors instead.  The price difference between restoring and upgrading the OE system and going with a full aftermarket system is a few hundred dollars......labor is the same either way.  I'm thinking the aftermarket system may be the way to go.

Restore & Upgrade to R134a:
(figures include tax and shipping or cost of gas for will call)
Condenser, Drier, Drier/Accumulator Tube: $125
Hoses (x3): $240
Evaporator: $125
Controller: $80
Sanden Compressor: $225
Switches & Sensors: $ 80
Misc: $50
= $925

Aftermarket System (complete):
=$1300


Aftermarket System (partial) + purchase and install my own outsourced parts:
Aftermarket evaporator and servo package: $800
Condenser, Drier, Drier/Accumulator Tube: $125
Hoses (x3): $240
=$1165

[blazer74]

Design 1 or 2 no big deal, ask for an expansion tube and it will come with the adapter to replace the original brass type.


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