1985 GMC K10 build

[Captain Swampy]

Looks really good!

[1967KaiserM715]

pulled rear axle and springs for sandblasting and painting Saturday/Sunday. Only did one spring pack, the other will get done hopefully before the weekend.








changed the tires to some spares I had lying around, so I didn't paint my good tires, I was originally going to use the ATV tires, and put the drums on them, but decided since I had the other tires I would just mount them, and it would be easier to move



popped the rear diff cover to pull axles to do wheel seals and found a few disappointing things

two chipped top and bottom spider gears, side spiders were pretty chewed, chipped ring gear, looks like maybe the pinion has a chip as well. Plus I can't pull the drivers axle out, it felt loose on the spider gear, and the end of the splines looked smashed...I haven't changed the front diff oil yet, so I guess I need to take a quick peek, hopefully(fingers crossed) I won't find anything up front



(same pic, no flash)


some of the marks on the side gears,




and the chipped ring gear


more later.

[1967KaiserM715]

this post will be a accumulation of everything I did during the week, plus the 1-2 hrs I managed to squeeze in today(oil filter adapter in my jeep was leaking pretty bad, took 5 hrs to do)

but got one spring pack all assembled with some add-a-leafs(Rancho) looks to have added an extra 1.5" to the arch.

Comparison shot, not great, but the general idea is there


drivers side brakes all assembled, before and after




have this extra piece, no clue as to where it goes?? came with all the spring hardware, but nothing like it came off, or was on the other side? it's roughly an inch long


in other news, I just got the spider/side gear set(Yukon brand) and just ground down/rounded the edges on the chip on the ring gear, pinion looked fine, and the wipe pattern seems to just miss the chip. Hopefully this should net me a few thousand miles; my dad thinks it should be fine-he is a large truck mechanic, and he says they do the same thing if the wipe pattern misses the chip, he says normally when the spiders or side gears chip and get caught in the ring/pinion, if it doesn't crack the tooth, and it on the outside edge, and outside the wipe, it should last a while.

but anyways, hopefully that fix lasts at least a year or a few thousand miles, that will give me time to get money to either get a locker or find a 14 bolt, stronger rear end.

Tomorrow I plan to sandblast and paint the other spring pack, finish up the passenger side brakes, and assemble the axle, and that will be it for this truck for now, I need to go through my deuce-and-a-half, make sure it is road ready, so I can register it.

[blazer74]

The mystery piece fits in the adjustment hole same as the rubber ones.

[1967KaiserM715]

The mystery piece fits in the adjustment hole same as the rubber ones.

Thanks, which brings about another point, my backing plates don't have any adjustment holes, is that normal for some years?

[blazer74]

Yes

[blazer74]

They could have knockouts.

[blazer74]

[blazer74]

[1967KaiserM715]

Definitely no knockouts, or even indentations for the slots, I looked after cleaning the backing plate, trying to figure out how to adjust the brakes. I plan on drilling and using my Dremel to make a slot. Thanks again.


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[blazer74]

Tighten them until you can just get the drum on.

Use the brake pedal to seat and center the Shoes in the drum.
Make sure both drums are on before you push the pedal

[Irish_Alley]

Tighten them until you can just get the drum on.

Use the brake pedal to seat and center the Shoes in the drum.
Make sure both drums are on before you push the pedal

if you go this way make sure your drums are smooth and theres no lip to them. they will be hard to install but once on there will be too much slop and you wont be able to remove them easy. i put my drums on my 02 on the lathe to smooth them out

[1967KaiserM715]

Well, guess it's been a while, but the rear axle is all together, I put new spider and side gears in, and filed the chip tooth, I checked the wear pattern and it wasn't near the chip, my dad thinks it will work fine, and if/when it does break, I'm putting in some sort of locker/posi unit.

I did the pinion seal, which was not fun, the last 3 or 4 threads got all mangled, had to get a die to clean up the threads, looks like the nuts threads start bunching up at the bottom for whatever reason(so the bottom part of the nut and the outer threads of the pinion), so however it happened I fixed it, it's back together( I went with the factory service manual and measured the torque required to spin the pinion, then when I put the new nut on I added 6 in-lbs per the book.

I have also taken the rear driveshaft, cleaned and painted, new u-joints, started working on the brake lines(axle and springs have been installed for a couple weeks now), hoping to have all the lines on frame side in, in the next few days. I've only managed to find a couple hours a week to work on the truck, between work and trying to keep my only working car running, but every little thing I do, will help me later.

I'll try and get some pics up later.


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[1967KaiserM715]

I really got to get better at updating and pictures...

got the brakes 90% done, just need to get cab finished and mounted so I can mount master and finish the last two lines.



Got one side long, the other short...go figure, also made a bracket extension for rubber hose






thought I had more pics of the front lines, but guess not, all the lines to proportion/combo valve are in, only the ones to the master will need to be done, used the cunifer line, with stainless fittings

picked up a 3.5" exhaust kit, Flowmaster, got it mocked up, but thinking just going straight out the back, father then out the side...haven't decided, got a piece of flex pipe, plan on solid mounting the exhaust from down pipe, all the way to the transfercase(no need for flex anywhere there) then the flex pipe, and three hangers aft of the transfer, should be fine like that, unless I go out the side, then 4 may be better.







Used the stud gun, pulled a majority of the dents, what little is left over can be skimmed with the tiniest bit of filler. still need to finish foot-well patch on passenger side, finish welding passenger floor, and put the drivers side brace back in(need to flip cab on back to do that)




(this one is really fuzzy 'cause of the lights, wouldn't focus on the cab corner no matter where I stood)

[1967KaiserM715]

Got a little more done, I plan on seam sealing the bottom and doing another coat of paint tomorrow.
but last of the repairs,



Cut out for the Shifter



Outside ready to be sandblasted; only doing the bottom, I will do the topside next weekend, by doing it this way I can pretty much section it off, and overlap as needed with primer. the bottom is getting an ample coat of SEM Rust Sheild Black.



After Blast-I got a majority of the material, wire wheeled a little bit more I couldn't quite get due to the angles, the SEM is supposed to be applicable over any rust, but much of what was left was just factory paint, or the e-coating on the patch panels, both of which got additional sanding and cleaning.



And a couple coats of SEM, I need to take a paint brush to ensure full coverage in some spots, like in the back of the cab and under the cab supports that are running up and down in the pics. I plan on taking a spray wand(Eastwood internal frame paint comes to mind, but I know there are others) and coating all the internal cavities as well.