1985 GMC K10 build

[1967KaiserM715]

Seam sealer was applied, and another coat applied-via both air gun and by brush to reach the harder areas the gun couldn't get around, like back of cab, front cab firewall lip and under the floor supports. I'll drop cab back down and do  the firewall and interior, then I can put it on the truck to finish, along with doors and fenders.

I don't have the means to lie everything out to paint, so doing it on the truck will get me the best even spray I can do, without laying extra coats down on one panel and making it look different.

I also tore into my front driveshaft, completely rebuilding it, wasn't originally, but then discovered one u-joint on the Cv side was a little loose, and figured everything else was getting done now, why wait. I mean it's only money, so I guess I'll keep working the long hours.


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[1967KaiserM715]

Done a little work, I have painted the front driveshaft but have yet to throw it together, as I decided to take it easy and do body work over the past few days.

so pics of all the body work, one rust free multiple dents CUCV fender, and the stock passenger side(possible replacement, had a CAPA sticker on it.) the passenger fender had multiple dents in the front, one set would technically be hidden behind the front bumper, but the few others would be noticable.

as for the CUCV military truck fender, several dents, creases, and on the top of the fender some pretty good deformations-(Which are still noticeable, I plan on trying do more later), I also plan on using a CUCV door as well for the drivers side, the original is majorly rusted along the bottom, and also severely dented. and same thing with the fender, it is rust free but has more then its fair share of dents. I plan to completely blast the outside of the door, to get a better idea of the work needed.

Some pics






this is the passenger fender, had a small outward pucker in the metal, so a little heat and a dolly, nice and flat.


most of the before pics of the drivers CUCV fender is hard to see the dents, same with door, all because of the flat CARC paint it has. so I'll try to describe some of the harder to see damage.

forst pic here is of the top side fender, I feel like they strapped the truck down over the fender, the same marks are on the passenger fender, but there is a pretty good pair of dents along the top(over a 1/4" when laying a flat edge across front to back of fender(which is supposed to be slighlty curved as well.) and as a result it bulges out the side as well.



pretty good crease, unfortunately I tried as best I could, but couldn't fully remove.


this pic has three areas, as shown by the sharpie lines,(FYI it looks like a big crease in the middle, but it is a grey camo paint going across) the one up by the body line is a two part dent, bulged out on the upper side, dented below. and one dent along the wheel well crease(really easy to pull out)


and finally some work done






hard to see because of the light, but the wheel well line came out good


best I could do, it almost looked like someone hit it with a axe, it was dented so far in


little bit done here, most of the bulge is out, next stepp was to try and pull the upper part, and then attack some more of the lower bulge


here you can see I pulled the dents a little more, and pounded the bulge in a little more, still not great, the "smiley faces" indicate where I need to try pulling a little more.







and the door, lots of dents, along both sides up and down, one long crease across under the body line, and several dents under the window, two are where the handle and mirror mount.


and does anyone know what went here? looks all torn up.

[winky]

whats the technique with the heat and dolly? looks good.

[1967KaiserM715]

so heat expands metal, also makes it soft, so any dents that are formed convex(bend outwards) with a little heat, will expand, and as it cools will actually pull the dent flat, a dolly makes it easier for the stubborn ones to go flat. I also use a combination of heat, hammer, and ice water to make the metal do work, essentially the cold water will make the metal contract faster and also makes for a stronger surface(can use to fix oil canning, or even prevent it) which I did on the roof of the cab, it had a major dent, I managed to pull, put it oil canned pretty bad(popped in and out relatively easy) so a little localized heat and a cold rag cause the metal to shrink and regain its structure it lost when it was dented.

body shops will use dry ice to pop hail dents in newer cars(really thin metal) not sure how well that would work on the thicker metal of older cars, but the principle and concept are pretty close to the same.

[winky]

ive seen heat used on hail dents just never on actual "dents" i might try it next time im fixing one of those door skins that should really be replaced. stretched metal on these newer cars loves to oil can

[1967KaiserM715]

Slow progress, still working the dents out of the door, will probably have to skim coat the whole door to make it smooth.

Got a few other odds and ends buttoned up, front driveshaft, working on finalizing my paint color(s) undecided if I want two tone or solid.


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[1967KaiserM715]

Thinking solid color, some sort of a deep red-backup color will be a sort of dark hunter green if the red is too expensive(out of budget...of which I have already passed...twice)

Saw a real nice truck  in town the other day in the exact color I want-I'll see if I can post it through Tapatalk-otherwise I'll try later to post it.



I have tried to remove the dents and creases in the door-but I am at the limit of my body skills, and I still have a few stubborn dents and creases(it looked like they took a 2 ft x 2 ft steel box and ran it into the door). So ultimately I will have to break down and skim coat the door In Filler.

I am also working on finishing up steering, have to see if I can't fabricate my own brace for the steering box, or if I have to break the bank and buy the kit.


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[1967KaiserM715]

playing with some paint-Dark Jade Semi-metallic. it was getting dark-so pics aren't great, nor could I get a good view of the color, on my down to the barn to look at it in the sun and get some more work done. this is the same as Mack Green, just with metallic flakes-my dad had some left over on a job at work, so rather then throw out an almost full quart he brought it home.

[1967KaiserM715]

And 2 in the sun, different angles-the previous pictures were taken at dusk and the paint was still tacky. Paint is dry now(not fully cured-needs 24 hours, but it is hard and dry)




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[LTZ C20]

Nice color, I like it.

[1967KaiserM715]

Nice color, I like it.

Thanks, still undecided on if I like the metallic, think I'm gonna get an aerosol can made up in GM Dark/Woodland Green, and spray half the tailgate, so I can see them side by side, and then I'll decide.

Painted the firewall, it will get a second coat later to make sure I got full coverage. I just brushed it on, as it is a low visual area- I don't plan on running a clear window in the hood to show off the engine bay. There was also no rust, so after scraping and wire wheeling most of the tar off, I sanded with 80 grit. I'm thinking maybe I'll do the whole engine bay black-so underside of hood and back of fenders; would make it easier to paint them if I do that; and it will save me some money.





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[LTZ C20]

I painted my entire engine compartment and under side of hood all with semi gloss black engine enamel the first time I had the engine out.

[hatzie]

Nice color, I like it.

Thanks, still undecided on if I like the metallic, think I'm gonna get an aerosol can made up in GM Dark/Woodland Green, and spray half the tailgate, so I can see them side by side, and then I'll decide.

Painted the firewall, it will get a second coat later to make sure I got full coverage. I just brushed it on, as it is a low visual area- I don't plan on running a clear window in the hood to show off the engine bay. There was also no rust, so after scraping and wire wheeling most of the tar off, I sanded with 80 grit. I'm thinking maybe I'll do the whole engine bay black-so underside of hood and back of fenders; would make it easier to paint them if I do that; and it will save me some money.





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I like the metallic green.  Gives it a dressed up look you dont get with the plain Jane color.

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[1967KaiserM715]

Been a week or so, but here is a picture of 1985 GM Woodland green(it is slightly darker, more of a brown hue to it then earlier or later Woodland greens). This is really just for show, I think the Dark Jade metallic is the color I will end up using.



I also got the drivers gas tank brackets painted up, with 2 new straps(also painted, as they come uncoated) I used some stainless nuts and bolts to hold them on, although the heads are a little high, they were better then actual hex heads, but may still require some grinding so they don't wear a hole in the gas tank. I am using bicycle tire tubes as an anti squeak pad, as that was one of the recommended materials instead of the tar paper/material strips normally used.





and some of the gas tank, a before paint, but after some scraping/sanding/wire wheeling,



And an after shot of a half painted tank, the other half(bottom) will get sprayed tomorrow, I need the top to dry a bit more, and this is also because I had no good way to hold it to paint it all at once. I am using VHT Silver, I'll see how much better this holds up against the Krylon I used on the other side(which I was not an overly huge fan of the way it came out.)



and finally two pics of a beige/light tan/cream painted dash-pad against the Dark Jade metallic-which I think is the color I will use, after walking by the gate for a week, the metallic has sort of grown on me, although I may see if they can mix it with slightly less flake.





more later, still lots to do.

[LTZ C20]

Dark jade metallic for sure. If it was me, I'd go for either a darker cream color or a light shade of tan brown. In the pic, the dash pad looks too much like white and not much like cream to me. Just my opinion tho.