1985 GMC K10 build

[1967KaiserM715]

You definitely want to fit the doors before installing the fenders. I would remove the fenders, get the doors dead nuts and then put the fenders on.

Yeah, I figured that, no way to get to cab adjustment bolts with fenders on.

So I'm doing one side at a time, starting with drivers, and I have a little problem-I can't seem to get the door to sit high enough-body line is about 3/16 low, and I have like about 1/2" gap at the top, I can stick my fingers in the gap.

I'm not trying to worry about the other gaps until I figure this out-I originally set the rear gap and lined the front up with the front pillar-when I noticed the gap at the top.

I loosens the door bolts and lifted door as high as it would go, retighten. Then I loosened the cab bolts and tried moving them up-and I end up with the half inch gap.



Edit: reading the my post after posting-I think I know what I did wrong, by tightening the bolts on the door hinges I think I ended up limiting the adjustment on the cab side. I'll try again tomorrow .


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[VileZambonie]

Here's a post where we just talked about this http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34757.0;topicseen

[1967KaiserM715]

Here's a post where we just talked about this http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34757.0;topicseen

Thanks, I had the striker in place, but I felt it was hindering me, but I'll try again tomorrow when it doesn't feel like it's 100 degrees


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[1967KaiserM715]

Door and fender on-also found my shim sheet, but it was for the original doors and fenders-I have original GM fender and door on the drivers side-both came from a CUCV, I believe the top leading edge of the door is a little tweaked-it's really the only place I can't align good-any adjustment in that area affects someplace else.



More later.


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[1967KaiserM715]

Passenger side is pretty close, I had to replace the top hinge pin, did both because I was there although the bottom had very minor movement-but more then drivers side.

I may tweak the alignment a little more-but I got it in a good spot right now-if anything I just need to pull the top outward a hair-this door is aftermarket and not completely perfect; some of the curves are a little off from the cab itself.

No pic of door on, but this was what was left of the top and bottom bushing of the top hinge-there was some sliver of material in the top hole-but it was mainly just the flange-absolutely no flange on the bottom-surprisingly the holes mic'd out ok-so new bushings went in without the need to go oversize. (A ball joint press works pretty good to press in the new pin without hammering on the hinge.)




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[1967KaiserM715]

Passenger side done(yes the rocker is a little out of whack-I had debated fixing it-but that was extra money I didn't have at the time.) The door doesn't hit there but it is close.



I am currently replacing all the injectors, it should be ready to drive around later this afternoon and I can get a quick video going.


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[1967KaiserM715]

Been a while, still having engine issues, looking to be timing related-guy who rebuilt the injection pump wanted to test it to make sure nothing failed internally. Should hear back this week on that.

Painted underside of bed-have to flip to do rest of it.



Rear shocks installed with braces-nothing too fancy, but more support then stock.





Fronts to be installed later, need/want new bolts.


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[VileZambonie]

Good progress

[1967KaiserM715]

Been awhile, have to figure out pictures due to photo bucket, might try from phone using Tap-a-Talk.

But here is a quick video, ran it around, had a little issue with the front brakes not releasing, but only happened twice early, hasn't happened since. essentially the engine was way out of time, and the timing chain had loads of slack(surprisingly still in spec according to GM service manuals)

also going to do a wood bed to get it on the road, while giving me more time to actually work on the bed-I would really like to find OEM bedsides that won't cost me a half months pay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rlvdz6keJQ

[1967KaiserM715]

Wood bed 90% completed, one board left to cut to width, a little sanding with belt sander to smooth some ends, and a couple more screws down the middle. Then mounting some lights.


I can add to the bed later, like side boards and such, but this will make it legal to get it on the road. I will add a set of mudflaps before really using the truck on road as well, front and back of rear tires.

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[1967KaiserM715]

Getting closer, needs front bumper, rear window for inspection, grille and interior finished for aesthetics, hoping for middle of week registration, gives me 10 days before I need inspection, hopefully driving it around doesn't show any flaws, everything is like or is brand new.





Scored a radio delete plate! Free! I don't want to cut dash (although PO did cut center around one of the AC vent holes), I plan on doing an underdash box to mount radio. Then as funds allow, something like a retrosound stereo.


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[1967KaiserM715]

I have run the truck out of fuel for the first time...my own fault, the gas gauge hasn't been reading right, and while trying to diagnose, I switched tanks...forgetting to switch back. So after Finishing exhaust(needs hangers bent and welded.) Front Bumper, Rear Window Install and registration, that is my first to fix project. Wouldn't be the first time I have needed to drive a truck with a faulty fuel gauge.

[VileZambonie]

Well that's motivation to get it all working right again. Faulty gas gauge happened to me a few weeks ago. I drove to and from work and the gauge still read 5/8 so I stopped at the gas station and it took 18 gallons lol so that was a close call. Mine was the gauge at fault.

[1967KaiserM715]

Got another faulty gauge, temp gauge will peg out, I wonder if it is a mismatched gauge and sender? I have a couple extra gauges, some top out at 240, some at 260, and one at 280. I didn't have a temp probe, but I could hold the upper radiator hose for a long time, radiator was a little cooler (so I know that's working.) But made the trip to work good, clutch will need a little work(air in line maybe), and I was informed my park lights are brighter then my brake lights.

Pre trip photo


Also need another wiper arm, as the retaining clip was missing on one of the arms,

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[1967KaiserM715]

So the temperature gauge goes from 100(cold) to 260(hot) within 5 minutes of idling and driving. Actual temp after a 10 minute cool down was 140ish(depending on location of IR gun), starting up temperature dropped slightly on IR, then slowly started rising never ran it long, got to maybe 155F-measurement taken on coolant crossover tube drivers head. Meanwhile gauge pegged at 260 within first few seconds of restarting.

as I understand, removing sender wire and grounding it should NOT peg the gauge to hot, if it does the sender is bad?