Oil pan gasket

[philo_beddoe]

Whats involved in changing the oil pan gasket?  I have a feeling it's not like changing the valve cover gaskets,,Quick and easy....

[LTZ C20]

Then you will feel wrong haha Just kidding. It's pretty easy. Only 4 questions that are important.

1 automatic or manual trans?
2 2wd or 4wd?
3 do you have an exhaust cross over pipe near the oil pan?
4 big block or small block? I don't think this is actually important but I was wondering.

It's actually pretty easy. Pending the answers to the questions, you drop the pan, clean surfaces, new gasket, put it all back together. I'll wait for your answers so I can give the best info I can.

[sbx22]

Just an example. I have a 350/350 C10 that required to jack up the engine a little to clear the pan under the oil pump and over the front cross member. Of course, had to take bolts out for motor mount and watch out for the distributor vs. firewall.

[LTZ C20]

Strange. I didn't have to do any of that. First time I did it I had a 350/350 setup, now I have a 350/4L60 setup and both were as simple as dropping the pan. Didn't have to do any engine shifting or lifting

[philo_beddoe]

Ok, automatic, 2wd, no crossover, small block 305.

[LTZ C20]

Ok, automatic, 2wd, no crossover, small block 305.

Easy peasy puddin n pie!

You will need to remove the torque converter/flexplate cover, drain oil, remove the bolts for oil pan, remove oil pan, clean oil pan sealing surfaces, clean sealing surfaces on block, install new gasket to pan, reinstall oil pan and 4 corner pan bolts frst, reinstall the rest of the side bolts for pan, torque to spec, reinstall drain plug, fill with oil. Start engine, let run, drive and recheck for leaks. If all is ok, reinstall torque converter/flexplate cover. That's it step-by-step wise.

The 2 things you will have 2 decide on:

 1, whether or not you want to put rtv silicone in the 4 corners of the front and rear main cap humps. This is optional, some high recommend it, others highly recommend no sealant at all anywhere on the gasket and others recommend a small light bead of rtv sealer all the way around.

2 measuring your oil pan so you get the right size gasket. There are 2 different front and rear main seal hump heights.

[BBM3]

This would also be a good time to replace the rear main seal and oil pump coupler which is included with Fel-Pro rear main seals.

I used a Fel-Pro one piece blue oil pan gasket using the included "snap ups" (brilliant), followed the instructions using a little Permatex Ultra Black where required and no more leaks.

[LTZ C20]

This would also be a good time to replace the rear main seal and oil pump coupler which is included with Fel-Pro rear main seals.

I used a Fel-Pro one piece blue oil pan gasket using the included "snap ups" (brilliant), followed the instructions using a little Permatex Ultra Black where required and no more leaks.

This info is solid.

[philo_beddoe]

Sounds like a plan.  Will get started asap! And thanks!  I hope others will see these instructions too.  I will certainly post results.

[LTZ C20]

Your welcome.

[jlmiller5]

Sounds like a plan.  Will get started asap! And thanks!  I hope others will see these instructions too.  I will certainly post results.

How'd it go?

I am going to do this on my leaky 1/2ton 2wd with big block this weekend.  I want to hit as many things as possible while under there, so I bought the rear main seal, Im removing the external oil cooler setup, and I have the FelPro one piece.  Planning to use the Permatex also.

I also have an oil pump, but I can't decide if I want to replace the stock one or not.  I have no oil pressure issues, and I believe that the truck has 100000 Mi on it.  I do not own an oil pump primer where you have to remove the distributor and spin the oil pump shaft with a drill after install.  Should replace the oil pump also?

Oh and how do you jack up on the motor a little bit to clear the cross member, but not get in the way of removing the oil pan?  Thanks

[philo_beddoe]

Sounds like a plan.  Will get started asap! And thanks!  I hope others will see these instructions too.  I will certainly post results.

How'd it go?

I am going to do this on my leaky 1/2ton 2wd with big block this weekend.  I want to hit as many things as possible while under there, so I bought the rear main seal, Im removing the external oil cooler setup, and I have the FelPro one piece.  Planning to use the Permatex also.

I also have an oil pump, but I can't decide if I want to replace the stock one or not.  I have no oil pressure issues, and I believe that the truck has 100000 Mi on it.  I do not own an oil pump primer where you have to remove the distributor and spin the oil pump shaft with a drill after install.  Should replace the oil pump also?

Oh and how do you jack up on the motor a little bit to clear the cross member, but not get in the way of removing the oil pan?  Thanks

Oh, Uhhh, well, we ended up replacing entire engine with a new gm crate 350. So technically it went great. Seriously though, I encountered a nasty engine vibe from the crank, plus the cam was getting worn and tired. I had Vile do the job and no the engine literally purrs, smooth as butter. couldn't be happier.

[Stewart G Griffin]

If i could ask a few related questions:
1) If you're using a 1-piece gasket, then you DON'T need the rubber hump piece that normally fits inside the timing cover?

2) If you're using the 1-piece blue rubber gasket then you DON'T need ANY silicone on the gasket itself or on the block or pan?  Yes, i know you still need it in the four corners, but the service manual says nothing about putting it on the gasket, block or pan.   This is for an 86 and later block btw.

a) For the four corners, what brand rtv would you recommend?

Sounds like a plan.  Will get started asap! And thanks!  I hope others will see these instructions too.  I will certainly post results.

How'd it go?

I am going to do this on my leaky 1/2ton 2wd with big block this weekend.  I want to hit as many things as possible while under there, so I bought the rear main seal, Im removing the external oil cooler setup, and I have the FelPro one piece.  Planning to use the Permatex also.

I also have an oil pump, but I can't decide if I want to replace the stock one or not.  I have no oil pressure issues, and I believe that the truck has 100000 Mi on it.  I do not own an oil pump primer where you have to remove the distributor and spin the oil pump shaft with a drill after install.  Should replace the oil pump also?

Oh and how do you jack up on the motor a little bit to clear the cross member, but not get in the way of removing the oil pan?  Thanks

It's probably too late, but for future reference on the topic of the oil pump, i have to put one in too (came with the engine but was not installed), the papers that came with the engine say:

1) Get the GM Engine preluber part# J 45299, but that's about $350, so i'm not doing it.

2) or get an oil pump primer shaft and use drill.  This is more like it as you can get them for $20-$50.

"When the first two methods are not available, follow this procedure to pre-lube the engine:"

They say to disable spark and fuel and crank the engine for a total of 2 minutes after normal oil pressure is reached.  But not 2 minutes continuously as the starter really can't go for more than 30 seconds at a time.  And it needs to cool off for about 2mins for each 30 second burst.

Just my opinion, that if you've got good oil pressure then don't mess with the pump.  They are pretty simple and reliable, but that is just my opinion.
Normally, i think you would use and engine crane to lift the engine to clear the crossmember.

[Stewart G Griffin]

P.S.
If you have an LS engine or an engine that doesn't use a distributor or you like to build things, read this:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/hrdp-1106-pit-stop/

[philo_beddoe]

This post must be from a year ago. I ended up putting in a crate gm 350.  Best idea ever!