Bump steer? 86 K10 with a 4" lift

[Bishop1989]

New member here. I bought my K10 last Friday knowing that the steering needed work. It has a 4" lift. The truck pulls to the right and when I hit bumps in the road the truck sways/pulls to the right. I was wondering if someone could tell me what to look for or buy to fix this. Thanks!

[enaberif]

Dear effing lord take that truck off the road IMMEDIATELY! That thing is an absolute death trap.

1) You have blocks in the front; BAD
2) Your pitman arm looks janky
3) Your steering arm is wrong

If I can find 3 things that are bad just from your pictures I would hate to think what else is wrong with that truck.

[Bishop1989]

Good to know! Ive only drove it a couple miles and knew something wasn't right and I parked it after that. Could you show me pictures of how they are suppose to look? Also how would I lift the front after I get rid of the blocks?

[Bishop1989]

Here are some more pictures. I'll probably take the block in the back out as well. How to I lift the truck safely?

[1967KaiserM715]

Need to buy lift springs. Also check the rear, if that has 4 inch blocks too-just drop it to stock height, or get the whole lift kit(minus shocks). I think some kits sell the drop Pittman arm with it.

As for steering arm, if any welding or bending has been done to it, you'll need a new one

You can check state laws, but some don't allow blocks or over 2 inch blocks

[1967KaiserM715]

Pretty much posted at same time, but with the questionable lift I would definitely go through and double check brakes and wheel bearings.

[Don5]

Here is what is wrong:
Blocks on the front. Replace with lift springs.
Steering arm needs replaced with a 4 inch lifted steering arm
Right tie rod is shot which caused the truck to pull. Personally I would replace both. Measure the length of each one before removing.
The rear vent needs fastened to the bottom of the bed. You might need to lengthen both front and rear vent hoses.
Take a close look at your front brake lines. Make sure they are not too tight when you turn the wheels to full lock.
I would also repack the front wheel bearings also soon as I could.
Check the front brakes while you are into the bearings.

[roundhouse]

Well.  Let me say congrats on the purchase , you will enjoy having an old Chevy 4WD

And thanks for asking about your truck,  everyone on this site has a different opinion on what looks good , and what they want their truck to be , but everyone wants you to have a safe driving vehicle

Definitely lose the front blocks
Very dangerous, they will pop out sooner or later , usually when you hit the brakes really hard

You may or may not need a raised horseshoe or dropped pitman arm with a 4" lift
Ours has a 4" lift and drives better without a raised horseshoe

The tie rod. The rod in front that connects both wheels together looks home made

What size tires do you want to run ?
If you don't go over 33 you should be fine with no lift at all
Ours worked fine with 33s and no lift
We raised it to run 35s


There's a recent thread here about checking and packing the wheel bearings and replacing brakes
Your truck will need that too I'm sure , every old vehicle does , because it's been neglected by the previous owner or just parked for along time

Ball joints are probably shot too
That will make it wander all over the road too

Get your new bearings and ball joints and stuff from NAPA
Not rock auto or  or autozone or somewhere else


NAPA only

and tell them that you will not accept bearing or ball joints or steering parts that are made in China .  Order the made in USA parts and pay extra for it

The made in China parts will fail a few weeks after you install them
Our pitman arm from Rockauto failed in 4 weeks

And ball joints are far too time consuming to install to use the cheap China stuff



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[enaberif]

If you have the tool ball joints are extremely easy and take no time at all.. Its the tool that matters tho.

I picked up this from Amazon and was recommended to another member who also purchased it and has nothing bad to say about it. It also works for ujoints cause most times those need to be replaced as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DGJY9Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

[Bishop1989]

I plan on getting rid of the blocks and just keeping the stock height for now. I think the tires on it now are 31x10.5. The breather tube hanging by the back axle has a plug or something in it. Should I bolt the tube up somewhere and remove the plug?

How can I tell if the Tie rod is homeade? I can post pictures tomorrow if I need to.

As far as Tie rods and ball joints, I'll probably go cheap for now just because I recently bought a house, this truck, and the usual expenses. Getting the truck safe and driveable is my main concern.

Does the transmission have a breathe/vent tube? The tranny leaks a bit and I'm just curious.

I appreciate all the feedback and advice!

[1967KaiserM715]

I plan on getting rid of the blocks and just keeping the stock height for now. I think the tires on it now are 31x10.5. The breather tube hanging by the back axle has a plug or something in it. Should I bolt the tube up somewhere and remove the plug?

It should be a plastic one way valve, should be fine to leave it,  clamp should hold it to the bottom of the bed, and tires up to 32 should be fine, 33's maybe

How can I tell if the Tie rod is homeade? I can post pictures tomorrow if I need to.

Looks like mine, so I think it might just be a brand difference thing

As far as Tie rods and ball joints, I'll probably go cheap for now just because I recently bought a house, this truck, and the usual expenses. Getting the truck safe and driveable is my main concern.

Don't, chances are you'll need to replace again shortly, told my brother the same thing a while ago, didn't believe me, went through same company twice before going to a reputable product

Does the transmission have a breathe/vent tube? The tranny leaks a bit and I'm just curious.

Automatic? should have a tube on the top of the case, where is the leak coming from, pump seals are common, and will leak out the bell housing, but can spray all over the case even on short drives, making it hard to diagnose

I appreciate all the feedback and advice!

[Bishop1989]

As far as Tie rods and ball joints, I'll probably go cheap for now just because I recently bought a house, this truck, and the usual expenses. Getting the truck safe and driveable is my main concern.

Don't, chances are you'll need to replace again shortly, told my brother the same thing a while ago, didn't believe me, went through same company twice before going to a reputable product

I'll probably just wait until I can afford better ones then. What brands would you guys recommend and what will I need Upper/Lower Ball joints and Inner/Outer Tie Rod Ends?

Does the transmission have a breathe/vent tube? The tranny leaks a bit and I'm just curious.

Automatic? should have a tube on the top of the case, where is the leak coming from, pump seals are common, and will leak out the bell housing, but can spray all over the case even on short drives, making it hard to diagnose

Its an Auto. The leak does look like its coming from the bell house area. Tranny operates fine other than that. Is it easy to change the seal?

I appreciate all the feedback and advice!

[enaberif]

Transmission seal is pulling the entire transmission. Which means dropping the transfer case as well.

[roundhouse]

If you have the tool ball joints are extremely easy and take no time at all.. Its the tool that matters tho.

I picked up this from Amazon and was recommended to another member who also purchased it and has nothing bad to say about it. It also works for ujoints cause most times those need to be replaced as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DGJY9Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

getting the knuckle off the axle is the time consuming part

Lots of hammering  and cussing


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[Bishop1989]

So, I'm going back to stock height on this truck and I have a few questions:

1. I'm buying new shocks and Im wondering if all 4 shocks are the same?

2. Is there any type of factory block between the Axle and springs? could someone post a picture of there stock setup?

3. What size U bolts will I need?