bad vibration

[philo_beddoe]

How about this one...

http://youtu.be/t6Hp2WANepc

[VileZambonie]

Okay so here is a quick overview of what I did:

Adjusted the timing and the carburetor. Timing was late, changed port settings.
Adjusted the valves – extremely loose, 5 and 6 were too tight, a lot of noise from valve train, rechecked after road test and checked valve lift. Most are below spec and uneven which means the camshaft is worn.

Hooked up oscilloscope and went through the ignition system, check power balance.  Checked compression in each cylinder average 118-125psi. Checked the lower end, you have excessive crankshaft end play, rear main is leaking badly and a there is a light main bearing knock. The vibration is coming from the crankshaft and you are feeling it resonate through the whole truck and drivetrain. The main reason you feel it worse through the body is because your exhaust is nearly rigid to the frame. Rubber isolation should help you feel it less but it will not make the problem go away.

My recommendation is to drive it, keep an eye on the oil level and save up some coin, drop a 350 in its place and live happily ever after. Overall it is a nice truck and as long as you keep the salt off it that thing will give you many years to come. We can talk about building or buying another engine if you want and the transplant but in the interim she’s ready to be picked up. Let me know when you want to come and get it and I’ll have someone that you can see for the keys if I’m not around or if you are coming tonight.

[philo_beddoe]

Sounds good, i think. How late can i come tonight? If i cant make it tonight then in the morning.

[LTZ C20]

Sounds like you have been well taken care off.

[VileZambonie]

Til 10:30 tonight. Let me know when you plan to come by because I'll be leaving here soon

[philo_beddoe]

Ok, hang on calling wife now.

[philo_beddoe]

If its ok, i'll get it in the morning, just remembered, we have church tonight.

Will you be there?

[philo_beddoe]

Can I do better than this?

https://chevroletperformanceparts.com/p/10067353-350ci260hp-new-1973-85-most-models

[gunrac]

YEP!

http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Performance/GM-Goodwrench-350ci-260HP-Engine-Packages/752506/10002/-1

[philo_beddoe]

Ok, but the other one comes with a free t-shirt!

[gunrac]

Jegs will send 2, 6" stickers w/each order..............lol

[Captain Swampy]

http://www.karlperformanceparts.com/p/350-5-7L-Chevrolet-Performance-Truck-Crate-Engine-12530283-Long-Block/1888/576

This has vortec heads and a roller cam. Vortec heads are the best flowing stock head available. Roller cams can have much better valve timing. The flat tappet cams would destroy the lobes if they ran the same specs. Roller lifters allow quicker opening and closing of the valve. Someone else can probably explain better than me.

The cheapest I found this engine is $1979 on Amazon.

I'm really happy you got to the bottom of this. It's really cool of Vile to help you

[philo_beddoe]

Thanks capt. swampy -

Vile has been the driving force through this problem. He's the only one that put a stop to it and figured it out. Now that i've reached bottom i can start rebuilding. Might take a while to save up 2k, trying not to put on credit.

This thread is going to continue for quite sometime, will keep updating though.

- philo

[philo_beddoe]

This post is empty.

[Greybeard]

Don't actually HAVE to buy a crate engine. Bare small blocks are still (almost) everywhere, even ones that have sat behind the barn half buried in the mud are likely still usable. Of course, if you want all the newfangled technology, you need to buy a newfangled technologically advanced system of parts. Or keep it simple and a straight bolt-in. If you are not expecting to do anything more serious than drive through snow on a paved road or expect no more than about 325 horsepower then a two bolt is more than adequate. A 4-bolt gives you bragging rights is about all, until higher horsepower and RPM's are wanted. By starting with a bare block it gives you a wide open choice of directions to go with the rest of it, crank can cause it to be stroked, stock, or de-stroked, rods and pistons can be whatever you want to afford (considering the kind of flammable water they sell in your location), and so on. Something to think about, it's pay as you go this way too. With the internet, patience, and a dry spot to store the engine in training, it can be as simple (inexpensive yet effective) or as difficult (extremely expensive and go-fast) as you want to make it. 

And by living near Vile, questions and assistance with choosing parts or with help on assembly might make life easier.