bad vibration

[Irish_Alley]

got one behind my cummins. the torque converter is starting to let me down, but i think that was more operator error.
dont know for sure but i think the 4l60e is rated at 360 ft. lbs

[SomeTexan]

got one behind my cummins. the torque converter is starting to let me down, but i think that was more operator error.
dont know for sure but i think the 4l60e is rated at 360 ft. lbs

Putting them behind a Cummins is a whole different story. So much off idle torque the trans can't keep up. With a trans brake they don't like to lock in until they are over 2500-3000 rpm, so I don't know if the pump is moving enough volume to keep the trans happy behind a diesel. I was told by a diesel sled pull guy that there is an aftermarket pump coming out for the 80 that will fix that, but it doesn't like input speeds over 4500rpm. Not an issue with most diesels, although some racers and pull guys spin them way higher.

I intend to throw one in my truck once I get the cash together. Fully built, all billet with a top of the line converter is around $6000 but they claim a 3000hp rating.

[Irish_Alley]

yeah im weighing the options now. either build up the 4l80e or put a nv4500 in her place. i do miss the stick and the wife could also drive it, right now you have to do everything manually and once your up to a certain speed then lock the converter. i wont let the wife drive it just cause i dont trust it to take too much abuse

[SomeTexan]

With a Cummins, I would take the nv4500 any day. When I had my 93  W250 and my Getrag died, I swaped in a fresh nv and a Val Air clutch.

[philo_beddoe]

Yeah, my c-10 bonanza has all that stuff. Lol

[Greybeard]

WOW! trans porn! I think I'm gonna stick with all old tech, at least my bitty brain knows something about it. A small tool box with some adjustable wrenches, a variety of worn out screwdrivers, and a missmatched set of combination wrenches from Kmart and everything on a 73-87 GM truck can be fixed, rebuilt, field stripped, and put back to new standards in about an hour....

Then there is the new tech stuff....a multimeter, some wire strippers, an assortment of connectors, some spare wire, and a laptop ...now, what happens when it's raining? 

[SomeTexan]

Philo, it could though. You could have a different engine/trans combo for every day of the week...

Greybeard, it's not that hard. Limp mode will usually get you home where a code scanner will give you a good idea what's wrong. The only reason you would need the wire strippers, wire and connectors is because a horrible installation was done. 99% of the time, you would just drive it. They are reliable, last forever and really are simple to work on.

[Greybeard]

Well Texan, maybe. All my company trucks were newfangled tech. Open the hood and wonder where the engine is, then reach in there to feel around for it and break something plastic that can never be found again. On these old trucks, open the hood, climb right in beside the engine, sit on the edge of the fender without fear of it crumpling, hang on to the carb for balance, kneel on the valve covers to reach the distributor, drop a wrench and swear up and down, because not only does it reach the ground, it reaches it smack square in the middle and just behind (or between) the front tires  . On the maintenance side, a few feet of three different sizes of fuel line, some vacuum hose, a little oil and a new filter, and a new or cleaned air filter and your good to go. Change the PCV valve, spark plugs and wires and the innards of the distributor every once in a while while your at it. $100 bucks tops. A tune up on the newfangled stuff....$85 just to hook it up to the machine that tells them it doesn't need a tuneup yet.  I had my first GMC for almost six years after buying it new and thrashing it in deep water, up mountain slopes, and through deep snow and mud. Only two hiccups that stopped me, a flatted lobe on the cam was the first that caused a major, massive, and expensive rebuild resulting in a pretty high horsepower engine, and the oil pump drive coupling broke once about four years into the rebuild. Not many folks today even keep a truck until the payments are over.     My '02 2500 Dodge was bought in '05 I think, 108K miles on it now. Rusted out everywhere. Most folks run at the first sign of rust. Heaven forbid the neighbors see a rusty truck in the driveway ya know. I just go out every year or so now and trim more of the rust off with the grinder. 

[SomeTexan]

Well Texan, maybe. All my company trucks were newfangled tech. Open the hood and wonder where the engine is, then reach in there to feel around for it and break something plastic that can never be found again. On these old trucks, open the hood, climb right in beside the engine, sit on the edge of the fender without fear of it crumpling, hang on to the carb for balance, kneel on the valve covers to reach the distributor, drop a wrench and swear up and down, because not only does it reach the ground, it reaches it smack square in the middle and just behind (or between) the front tires  . On the maintenance side, a few feet of three different sizes of fuel line, some vacuum hose, a little oil and a new filter, and a new or cleaned air filter and your good to go. Change the PCV valve, spark plugs and wires and the innards of the distributor every once in a while while your at it. $100 bucks tops. A tune up on the newfangled stuff....$85 just to hook it up to the machine that tells them it doesn't need a tuneup yet.  I had my first GMC for almost six years after buying it new and thrashing it in deep water, up mountain slopes, and through deep snow and mud. Only two hiccups that stopped me, a flatted lobe on the cam was the first that caused a major, massive, and expensive rebuild resulting in a pretty high horsepower engine, and the oil pump drive coupling broke once about four years into the rebuild. Not many folks today even keep a truck until the payments are over.     My '02 2500 Dodge was bought in '05 I think, 108K miles on it now. Rusted out everywhere. Most folks run at the first sign of rust. Heaven forbid the neighbors see a rusty truck in the driveway ya know. I just go out every year or so now and trim more of the rust off with the grinder. 

When you do an ls swap, the engine covers are an optional install. I throw that crap in the trash. The only plastic left is the intake, and it's fairly tough. As far as tune ups, if it isn't running bad, you don't need one. There is no reason whatsoever to pay someone to plug in to your computer. All the major part stores will plug in for free and every one I've dealt with let me use the scanner. Many have a loan-a-tool program where you can give them a deposit to borrow the scanner. Bring it back, get your money back. Of course, I like having one handy and they aren't that expensive. A basic ls install takes up no more room than a small block. Less actually since you don't have issues with distributer/firewall clearance.

I've owned and built plenty of old iron. I have no problems with setting timing by ear and seat of the pants. No issues tuning a carb, even dominators. Wideband O2 sensors make it easier, but aren't a must have. The new ones don't need all the little bs. No need to check timing, adjust carbs or even change plugs very often. To me it's a better daily driver set up. No muss, no fuss and a check engine light will tell you when something needs work.

Don't get me started on Dodge rust. I've owned quite a few and consider almost all of them a pile of crap wrapped around a good drivetrain. Although I have had good luck with them, I know many people don't.

Out of curiosity, what engine was in your GMC? On these ls engines you have to shim the oil pump when you install it. Not shimming the oil pump or running those junk "ported" oil pumps are the only ones I've seen fail.

[philo_beddoe]

Ive heard those ls engines are really nice. But i have to agree with greybeard on the old school engines. I have to, its what i grew up with, kind of a heritage. I hate check engine lights and emissions. What was the last year for carburetors?

Did rochester go out of business due to fuel injection?

[Captain Swampy]

87 1/2 tons had TBI, I think the 3/4 and 1 tons kept the carb till 92 but not sure.

[philo_beddoe]

Yeah, i thought it was around the early 90's. My brother in law wet to an auto tech school in the early 90's and was never introduced to carbs.

[SomeTexan]

Ive heard those ls engines are really nice. But i have to agree with greybeard on the old school engines. I have to, its what i grew up with, kind of a heritage. I hate check engine lights and emissions. What was the last year for carburetors?

Did rochester go out of business due to fuel injection?

Emissions? I've never moved any of that stuff over. In Texas, once it's 25 years old that stuff doesn't matter any more.

I grew up on carbs myself and used to hate efi, but it's really not as bad as people make it out to be. There is a lot of extra stuff on these engines from the factory, but the harness gets way more simple when it's set up for the swap. And, it's not like the older efi that gives you a light, then can't tell you why it's giving you a light. It really points you to the problem then a few simple tests will tell you exactly what is wrong. And when it comes to tuning, it's way more accurate than changing jets and metering rods. But, to each their own. I like having the capability to make 1000+ hp out of junkyard take outs that I can get for less than it costs me for machine work on an sbc. Plus mid 20's for mpg, and easy starting in cold weather. Throw in set it and forget it reliability and I'm sold.

[philo_beddoe]

You make a great point! No emmisions here either, after 15 yrs. Amen to that! Ya know if i had a vehicle over 1980, i would do that. But never for a vehicle from the 60's or 70's.

[philo_beddoe]

I am still going to check with summit racing and chevy performance, but just throwing this out there.

Does anyone know for sure, the best oil for a new sbc crate, break in period? Weight and brand??