bad vibration

[philo_beddoe]

See what i mean, i heard NO on mobile one. All i know is nobody knows the absolute truth. All preference so far.

I checked the online installation instructions and they didnt even mention using a special break in oil or zddp stuff. But they did say to change after 500 mi.  One thing i have heard from ALL sources was to NOT use a synthetic oil.

Unless Vile tells me otherwise, i will use my 10w30 and add the additive to the whole 5 qt bottle and mix well.

[philo_beddoe]

Ok, just got through to summit technical dept. which is seperate from the general info. He basically said exactly what Vile stated. Additionally, he said dont use any synthetic oil, which is what i have heard from everywhere.

Also, run engine at like 2000 rpm for 20 min., Change oil, then change again at 500 miles.

[philo_beddoe]

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/pdfs/350-290_HP_Engine_Base.pdf

6 to 1, 1/2 doz the other.

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/100/138/138-Engines_Installation_4-12.pdf

[SomeTexan]

That's what I was saying, the 20 min cam break in at 2000 rpm, change oil, then 2-500 miles on  break in oil. Gets expensive at $10 a quart.

Vile sounds like he knows his crate engines, I'm sure he won't steer you wrong. I've only used one crate engine, all the rest I've built and fully blueprinted to my own specs.

[philo_beddoe]

Yes, Vile is very solid. Both mechanical and theoretical. No worries. I have learned thats a waste of time.

Oh, and i'm not doing the purple oil stuff. I'm set.

[SomeTexan]

Royal purple is good oil. I used it in my first engine. Expensive yes but worth it is think. Just please make sure you get the proper weight as recommended for the new engine. Also, it is full synthetic, even the break in oil.

That's debatable. I've run it twice, both times I lost an engine the first pass after putting it in. Fresh engines both times, and both times the bearings showed a big lack of lubrication. Data logger showed normal oil pressure and temps all the way until they let go. Both times it was an RP rep trying to sponsor me, fresh oil from the cases in his truck. I refreshed both engines and went back to Castrol GTX and never had another problem. After running bypass filters on my diesels and getting oil analasis done on a regular basis, I don't trust synthetic oils.

Totally alright. I think it's good, but that's about it. Not great or amazing. It's "mid grade" synthetic if you will. I used it, didn't have an issue, but oddly enough, the engine I used it in, had a fuel pump push rod that was brand new and missed the hardening process. The drive lobe on the cam chewed .5 inches off of it in 250 miles, once I figured it out, I just changed the oil and few times in short succession and took a chance on it. I got 7K miles out of it before the push rod pieces that had run thru it before I found the issue destroyed the #1 rod bearing, chewed up the crank something special and it got a nice curb idle rod knock. I knew that push rod was the end of the engine but I just didn't know how long until it was gonna go so I just ran it till it started knocking. Got about a year out of it I think.

Now I would go to mobile 1 before I went back to RP.

Different strokes for different folks. Some people even like Penzoil for some reason. As long as you have good luck with it, run it.

[SomeTexan]

Yes, Vile is very solid. Both mechanical and theoretical. No worries. I have learned thats a waste of time.

Oh, and i'm not doing the purple oil stuff. I'm set.

I wouldn't call the break in procedure a waste of time, that has been a tried and true method used for decades. It might be overkill for a simple crate engine, but it does make a difference. I know for a fact because of having oil analasis's done, cutting filters open, bearing and cam/lifter inspections. It does make a difference, it just may not be enough for you to worry about with your application.

[blazer74]

Break-in with a flat tappet cam engine is no joke, roller cam not so much.

Some will debate cam failure is also due to inferior quality these days, along with the oils lacking zinc and phosphorus to save the environment and catalytic converters.

[Greybeard]

Out of curiosity, what engine was in your GMC? On these ls engines you have to shim the oil pump when you install it. Not shimming the oil pump or running those junk "ported" oil pumps are the only ones I've seen fail.

It was the stock '78 engine, small block, 4 bolt, punched .30 over (too much I know).

Ahh, the plastic sleeve on the oil pump drive rather than the steel one. Also, wasn't that the first year of the low tin blocks? .030 isn't bad, .060 is where some of them start having cylinder wall issues.

Unfortunately, the one that broke was a steel one, one ear cracked and bent out enough for it to slip. 20 minute fix. This was after the rebuild, maybe 5 years after. I don't know if it was a low tin/nickle or not. I do have what is supposed to be a high nickle block in my present truck. I don't know if it's true or a rule of thumb or BS, but my understanding is high nickle blocks have a simple 010 cast in them. Could also be a fairy tale.

[Greybeard]

Royal purple is good oil. I used it in my first engine. Expensive yes but worth it is think. Just please make sure you get the proper weight as recommended for the new engine. Also, it is full synthetic, even the break in oil.

That's debatable. I've run it twice, both times I lost an engine the first pass after putting it in. Fresh engines both times, and both times the bearings showed a big lack of lubrication. Data logger showed normal oil pressure and temps all the way until they let go. Both times it was an RP rep trying to sponsor me, fresh oil from the cases in his truck. I refreshed both engines and went back to Castrol GTX and never had another problem. After running bypass filters on my diesels and getting oil analasis done on a regular basis, I don't trust synthetic oils.

I whole-heartedly agree with the Castrol oil. I've used that for decades in one form or another and have never had an oil related failure. Of course, prior to the cam lobe flattening in my first truck I used Penzoil or Havoline just like my Dad used. That changed with the rebuilt engine and I never looked back. In addition, I have used Castrol 20/50 or straight 50 in my 84 Harley since I bought it new in 84 (still have it 2 (nearly) stock  rebuilds later). No point in paying for over-priced and over valued Harley oil (no point in paying for any extremely over-priced item from Harley anymore). 

[LTZ C20]

Different strokes for different folks. Some people even like Penzoil for some reason. As long as you have good luck with it, run it.

Very well put. I completely agree.

[LTZ C20]

See what i mean, i heard NO on mobile one. All i know is nobody knows the absolute truth. All preference so far.

I checked the online installation instructions and they didnt even mention using a special break in oil or zddp stuff. But they did say to change after 500 mi.  One thing i have heard from ALL sources was to NOT use a synthetic oil.

Unless Vile tells me otherwise, i will use my 10w30 and add the additive to the whole 5 qt bottle and mix well.

GM uses Mobil 1 for all of its synthetic applications. Some Cadillacs, some Buicks, all of the high performance engines in the camaros, corvettes, cts-v's, a few other models, there is Delvac Mobil 1 available for the diesels. We never have issues with Mobil 1 in anything.

[LTZ C20]

I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40 "Diesel oil" in my current engine, has some ZDDP and a few other things in it that are good to have, it's in there cuz it's oil for diesel engines, it's very good, I'm happy with it.

[blazer74]

What ever oil you use it important to keep up with the manufactures data for levels of zinc/phosphorus.

There is a continuing decline in today's oil including diesel oils which have detergent that works against its zinc/phos content.

[philo_beddoe]

Yes, Vile is very solid. Both mechanical and theoretical. No worries. I have learned thats a waste of time.

Oh, and i'm not doing the purple oil stuff. I'm set.

I wouldn't call the break in procedure a waste of time, that has been a tried and true method used for decades. It might be overkill for a simple crate engine, but it does make a difference. I know for a fact because of having oil analasis's done, cutting filters open, bearing and cam/lifter inspections. It does make a difference, it just may not be enough for you to worry about with your application.

Hold it!! I meant worring is a waste of time,,NOT the break in period.  See post 289.

I'm planning on treating this new engine like a newborn baby.