Instrument Lights and Daytime Running Lights Not Working

[bd]

Continue to use both existing red wires, just "add" the fusible link as shown along with a new splice that is firmly crimped, soldered and insulated with adhesive lined, polyolefin heat shrink (available from Harbor Freight, Del City and many other sources).

[Double-A]

OK, thanks, thats what I thought you meant.. I just wanted to make sure before doing it.

[Double-A]

How long should the fusible link be that connects the alternator output with the regulator splice?

Also is the headlight switch wired correctly? What kind of headlight switch will I need, I notice there are some that say without post 7 or some that say they are 8 post..

[bd]

How long should the fusible link be that connects the alternator output with the regulator splice?

Also is the headlight switch wired correctly? What kind of headlight switch will I need, I notice there are some that say without post 7 or some that say they are 8 post..

Let's review...



Use the embeded link in the following quote for specifics on making a fusible link...

...Cut the 16-gauge "red" wire coming out of the regulator plug at the alternator where it splices to the 12-gauge "red" wire that runs to the bulkhead connector.  Discard the yellow splice.  Make up a 16-gauge fusible link with a 1/4" ring terminal at one end (refer to How to make a Fusible Link in our Technical Pages).  Crimp the opposite end of the fusible link together with the "red" lead coming from the regulator plug such that both wires share the same end of the bare 12-gauge splice.  Slip heat shrink over the wire pair well past the splice and securely crimp the opposite end of the splice onto the 12-gauge red wire running to the bulkhead connector.  Solder the splice then heat shrink it....

... Don't forget to slip the heat shrink tubing over the wires before you crimp them together.  And then slip the tubing up the wire well away from the splice before soldering so it doesn't shrink prematurely.

Continue to use both existing red wires, just "add" the fusible link as shown along with a new splice that is firmly crimped, soldered and insulated with adhesive lined, polyolefin heat shrink (available from Harbor Freight, Del City and many other sources).

The wire colors are in the correct positions on the switch.

Relax and take a few minutes to reread the entire thread to help orientate yourself and bring all of the information into perspective.

As far as the switch is concerned, purchase a service replacement by parts catalog application.  The 7-post switch is fairly standard.  Splice the original harness to the new pigtail by matching wire colors.  The "white" dome lamp ground connects to the offset terminal at the right front corner of the switch, next to the ceramic frame.  It will need a factory style terminal to properly lock into the connector.

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Oh wow.. I didnt see half of the green letters in the picture from the previous post. This weekend I will be able to start on the list and will come back here with more questions if need be.

[Double-A]

Ok. sorry it took so long to get an update, this weekend was super busy.

In your list of things to do you wanted another picture of the junction block and its wires. Here's the picture of it http://imgur.com/v7LtmCX

One of the wires (circled in red) has a strange terminal that connects to both sides of the junction block. I'm not sure if that's right.

[bd]

The wire circled in red is factory - the metal link just ties the two studs together.  The three yellow arrows point to factory installed wires.  The blue arrow points at what looks like the power lead running into the trailer brake control (that new terminal end looks good  ).  Do any of the factory wires have what appears to be a splice roughly 6" - 7" away from their connection to the junction block?

[Double-A]

Thanks, I actually redid that terminal right before you posted that list.

And none of the wires have splices... they just run straight into the block.

[bd]

I am guessing that wire #1 comes from the battery cable stud on the starter solenoid, wire #2 goes over to the firewall bulkhead connector, and wire #3 runs to the blower relay.  If this is correct, you can reassemble the junction block after applying a liberal coat of antioxidant to the studs, terminals and nuts.  Incidentally, wire #2 is a fusible link.

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Would it be ok to replace this junction block with something thats the same? I lost a nut when I was removing the wires and the 2 sides are different sizes...

[bd]

You can, but the nuts are just standard machine sizes - I would guess 1/4" x 20 for the larger stud and #10 x 24 for the smaller. 

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ok thanks

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Sorry there haven't been any updates, I haven't been able to do any work on it recently.. Been too busy with other things.

[bd]

We've all been there many times.  Enjoy your family and Christmas!

[Double-A]

Thanks, enjoy your Christmas and family as well.