Instrument Lights and Daytime Running Lights Not Working

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Hope everyone had a good Christmas and New Year, I will be starting back up on fixing my truck soon. Tomorrow I am going to get a new headlight switch and move on from there. I might have some questions but I'll see. Then we can move on to the glow plug wiring....

[bd]

Pick up a connector pigtail, too.

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Well I got the switch and pigtail but it turns out my soldering iron broke. So it might be a few days before I can go and install the new stuff.

[bd]

The factory wires that were removed by the PO from the original connector [should] have the type of terminals imaged below.  Pick up a terminal removal tool (image), or make something similar, and remove the pigtail leads one-at-a-time from the new connector and insert the original wires matching color for color.

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The terminals that are on there now don't have a tab to hold them in. It would be pointless to remove the pigtails connectors and put in the ones that are on it now..

I was going to use a linesman splice to connect the pigtail to the original wires.

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Ok well the headlight switch and its pigtail have been wired in using a linesman splice. I haven't gone to add the splice from the alternator output to the red wire to the dash because my brother who was a PO (not the one who altered everything) said that he removed a splice there because it was causing a parasitic drain. Maybe you can explain why it could/would cause that.

[bd]

How much of a parasitic drain in amperes?  Circuit 2 off of the alternator feeds the headlamps, instrument lamps, running lamps and horn.  On gas powered rigs it also feeds the ECM memory.  Did someone possibly tap Ckt 2 to power radio memory or ________?  Whether Ckt 2 picks up B+ from the back of the alternator or somewhere else is immaterial.  If there is a problem in the wiring or an appliance causing a parasitic draw of more than 50 - 60 ma it will eventually show up as a low battery unless the vehicle is run regularly to maintain battery charge.

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I'm not sure how much of a draw it has. I believe the yellow wire on it goes to the glow plug controller. But there is also a wire on it that goes to ground so maybe that's what causes the draw when a link is installed.

[bd]

What do you mean?  You already mapped out the yellow.  You said it connects to the G/P controller.  If there was a wire connecting B+ to ground, it would melt - quite spectacularly, I might add!



Unplug the red and white wires from the regulator.  Connect a test light between B+ and the #2 regulator terminal.  Does the test light illuminate?

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Well there is definitely a wire going to ground from the post labeled B+ (its not melted but it must be wrong from the sound of it).

Tomorrow I will have to go see if there is voltage from the B+ to the area where the red and white wires connect. (I am assuming no but it doesn't hurt to check)

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So if I am right about there being a ground on the B+ post is that wrong? Should I remove that ground? I again am assuming its bad by what you described and that there is a ground ( which is negative of course) and the post this ground is connected to is positive..

[bd]

Remember these?

...I should mention that there are 2 wires connected to the output post. There is the yellow wire, and a thicker (maybe 12-10 gauge) black wire that goes to a ground....

Well I just went and rechecked. I didn't see in the dark last night that the black wire that is on the outpost connects to the positive battery terminal.

What changed since you posted these comments that a wire now goes to ground?



When you perform the quick test I mentioned, use an incandescent test light connected between B+ and the regulator #2 terminal with the regulator connector unplugged.  (The #2 terminal is the terminal that normally connects with the red wire).  In other words, I want you to connect the test light in series between battery positive and the regulator terminal.  Do not use a voltmeter.  In this case we are not interested in voltage, we are interested in current flow through the regulator sensing circuit.  The brightness of the test light will be an indicator of that current flow.

Was the alternator replaced before or after your brother removed the short jumper between the output post and the regulator circuit?

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Ah yes... I remember now. That wire is black so it confuses me..
I'll have to get a test light to do the test.

I believe my brother replaced the alternator and took the wire out in one sitting but I'll have to ask.

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Ok, so my brother did replace the alternator but I am not certain when he took the b+ to the red "to dash" wire out.

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Sorry there haven't been any updates. I haven't been able to go do any of the fixes recently. I'm wondering do you still want me to put in the fusible link from the alternator B+ to the red "to dash" wire?