Author Topic: engine pull  (Read 9378 times)

Offline gwcrim

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engine pull
« on: March 29, 2016, 05:10:40 pm »
I've done many, many engine pulls but all in cars, never a truck.  I'll be replacing the engine and trans.  Do I pull them together or take the trans out from under? 

The radiator support is pretty high.  Would your average engine lift be able to get tailshaft high enough? 

What about on the way back in? 

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2016, 05:21:01 pm »
What are we working on? YMMET
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74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline gwcrim

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2016, 07:34:28 pm »
Oh, that.  1980 C10.

Offline CDog86

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2016, 09:07:27 pm »
I have an 86 K10 so it is 4x4 (has a transfer case) on the back of a 700r4 and I just pulled my engine with trans after I took out transfer case. It worked just fine with a normal cherry picker.

Offline gwcrim

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #4 on: March 30, 2016, 07:28:36 pm »
Larry my transmission guy recommended pulling the trans first.  I kinda like that idea. 

What are the tricks to pulling an auto trans without spilling 30-40 gallons of trans fluid?   :o

Offline square81

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2016, 08:08:33 pm »
To not spill it everywhere get a plug to fit the tail stock I've used an old drive shaft yoke. My go to is a couple of plastic bags and a ton of duck tape.

Offline Stewart G Griffin

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2016, 08:55:10 pm »
i've always just pulled the engine only.  i use a cheap, horror freight type hoist and it clears the radiator support with no real problems.

If you don't need to replace the trans, then i would leave it.  But if you're more comfortable with taking them both out at the same time, fine.  The cheap engine hoists should be able to lift the engine and trans clear of the rad support.


What i REALLY would like is to have an A-frame gantry with overhead hoist:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356723_200356723


Offline bcstingray

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2016, 07:22:02 pm »
I took my radiator support out on my 73 and pulled the 6 cylinder motor and trans out without removing the hood. Replaced the 350 with auto trans attached. Didn't have to lift very high.


Offline gwcrim

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2016, 08:19:59 pm »
That's the way you do it!

Offline 76LongBox

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #9 on: March 31, 2016, 10:29:16 pm »
I have the AC Delco Engine Hoist and leveler from Oreilly Auto Parts.  It barely had enough reach to pull the engine and transmission together out of my '76 GMC 2WD...but it did work.

Offline gwcrim

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2016, 10:36:34 pm »
I have the AC Delco Engine Hoist and leveler from Oreilly Auto Parts. .

That's the same basic equipment I'll have.  I'm still giving serious thought to pulling the trans first.  I can see fluid spilling all over the place as the engine/trans dangles stuck over the radiator support.

Offline Stewart G Griffin

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #11 on: April 05, 2016, 07:18:56 am »
I have the AC Delco Engine Hoist and leveler from Oreilly Auto Parts. .

That's the same basic equipment I'll have.  I'm still giving serious thought to pulling the trans first. I can see fluid spilling all over the place as the engine/trans dangles stuck over the radiator support.

Mmmmmm........not really, not much if any if you drain it thoroughly before lifting it.

Another thing i do is if the engine that is coming out needs to be rebuilt anyways, i will take it apart----intake, heads etc. down to the short block while it's still in the truck.  Makes it easier to pull it

Offline gwcrim

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #12 on: April 05, 2016, 09:53:46 pm »
Other than pulling the pan and making a huge mess, how do you thoroughly drain an automatic?

Offline gunrac

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #13 on: April 06, 2016, 07:04:48 am »
To not spill it everywhere get a plug to fit the tail stock I've used an old drive shaft yoke. My go to is a couple of plastic bags and a ton of duck tape.

Pretty good advice........floor dry, 10.00.........just sayin
Never Apologize..........as it shows signs of weakness

Offline fitz

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Re: engine pull
« Reply #14 on: April 08, 2016, 06:19:07 pm »
Other than pulling the pan and making a huge mess, how do you thoroughly drain an automatic?
I bought a vacume pump from West Marine.  It's used to change the oil on boats by sucking the oil through the dipstick.  It works great on transmissions.  I paid $50 for it over 20 years ago. It was money well spent.

Edit: the brand name was Topsider. $45 at Northern tools.
« Last Edit: April 08, 2016, 06:25:09 pm by fitz »