Dual fuel soaked charcoal canisters

[willi2ds]

So I've searched and couldn't quite find what I was looking for. I have two canisters, I'm assuming that's because I have dual tanks. The bottom of both of these are saturated with gas, first thought was to remove them both but I really don't want the garage smelling of gas all the time. So my questions are:
Can I just do just one canister and use tees to join the tank vent lines?
Has anyone used one successfully out of a newer vehicle?
Rebuildable? I've heard of cutting apart and using fish filter charcoal and regluing, not sure how durable this would be.
If nothing else, any fairly cheap replacements?
Thanks guys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LTZ C20]

Year make and model? I have dual tanks also and I've never heard of dual tanks having dual canisters, mine only had one. Post pics?

[willi2ds]

It's a 1979 C10 350/th350 Big-10
I've already pulled them, so can't do pics.
 One was on the driver side fender well and the other was on the drivers side radiator support.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[zieg85]

Does your fuel pump have a return?

[hatzie]

What year/model is your rig?
The factory vent setup is Teed at the tanks to one charcoal canister.  The vent line on the sender has a baffle.  Return is straight into the tank and pickup is obviously all the way to a sock in the bottom.
Soaked in gas sounds like you have a plumbing issue.  Two canisters sounds suspiciously like a home brew plumbing setup...

[willi2ds]

No, it's factory. I've seen a few pics of others like this and the sticker on the rad support shows them as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[willi2ds]

Yes, it's a return set up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bd]

Dual canisters were installed on select vehicle models to provide adequate vapor recovery capacity when said vehicles were fitted with auxiliary tanks.  Rather than produce a larger vapor canister to satisfy the specific requirements (the elegant approach) the factory chose to double up - go figure.  Canisters cannot be "dried," because the heat required to drive off absorbed fuel vapor would physically destroy the canister.  If the vehicle requires smog inspections, look for a part number cast into the canister housing then do an Internet search.  You could probably retrofit a newer, larger capacity canister to your application if necessary and reconfigure the lines with a little research and no one would be the wiser.  To reiterate that which has already been suggested by others and avoid a recurrence of canister saturation, verify the canister lines are correctly plumbed and connected and make sure that none of the lines are plugged or restricted.  In addition, verify that any fuel return lines connecting to the tanks switch between the tanks simultaneously as either tank is selected.  If the 1/4" return line from the fuel pump doesn't plumb through the same fuel selector valve as the 3/8" supply lines from the tanks, then all of the return fuel will consistently pump into only one of the tanks, which consequently will overfill and flood the canister(s) through the vent lines.

[LTZ C20]

Can you post pics of where they used to be, they other pics you have seen of this setup and the sticker on the radiator support?

[willi2ds]

Checked pluming from switch and it was good, here's where they were, the canister in the pics is the one that was on the fender, the one that was on the rad support had a second valve on top of it.
I ran it today with everything unhooked and except for the smell, everything seemed ok. I'm thinking it was from overfilling the tanks maybe? Or some vacuum problem, idk for sure.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LTZ C20]

Interesting

[1967KaiserM715]

Check your pcv valve for proper functioning

Also you can use the fish charcoal stuff, people use it all the time for VW's with good results


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[VileZambonie]

If this was a one time occurrence and you are positive the plumbing is dead on then it is possible that an overfilled tank and build up of pressure caused it to push the fuel through the vapor line. You can try letting the canister hang upside down to clear out but no guarantees it won't stink for a while.

[willi2ds]

I've ran it for two days unhooked, with the vent lines running to a couple of cans, so far no fuel in them. And except for the smell, everything else seems ok


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk