A/C Compressor Clutch Sticking?

[bd]

Install an idle stop solenoid and tie it into the light green wire that connects to the AC low pressure cycling switch on the accumulator.  Look around the driver side of the carburetor for a light green wire in a single wire connector that may already exist for that purpose.  The solenoid will energize with the AC and raise the idle speed, so the engine won't stall.  Then when the AC is shut off or the engine is shut down the throttle will close to its base adjustment to prevent dieseling.

[LTZ C20]

Install an idle stop solenoid and tie it into the light green wire that connects to the AC low pressure cycling switch on the accumulator.  Look around the driver side of the carburetor for a light green wire in a single wire connector that may already exist for that purpose.  The solenoid will energize with the AC and raise the idle speed, so the engine won't stall.  Then when the AC is shut off or the engine is shut down the throttle will close to its base adjustment to prevent dieseling.

Perfect solution.

[boulky12]

Install an idle stop solenoid and tie it into the light green wire that connects to the AC low pressure cycling switch on the accumulator.  Look around the driver side of the carburetor for a light green wire in a single wire connector that may already exist for that purpose.  The solenoid will energize with the AC and raise the idle speed, so the engine won't stall.  Then when the AC is shut off or the engine is shut down the throttle will close to its base adjustment to prevent dieseling.

Cool I always wondered what that wire and connector were for. So I can just bolt on the Idle stop solenoid and plug in the connector and I should be good to go huh?

Is there an adjustment on the solenoid or do you just put it on?

[bd]

Clean that wire with some solvent and verify the color.  Idle solenoid circuits were light green.  You can determine whether it is tied into the AC cycling switch using a test light.  Connect your test light to a good clean ground and probe the wire connector to determine if it has power only when the AC and/or Defrost are selected from the dash control.  Typically, idle speed adjustment with the AC on is 50 - 150 RPM higher than idle speed with the AC off.  You can research the idle adjustment specs in the appropriate service manual for an exact RPM setting.

[boulky12]

Clean that wire with some solvent and verify the color.  Idle solenoid circuits were light green.  You can determine whether it is tied into the AC cycling switch using a test light.  Connect your test light to a good clean ground and probe the wire connector to determine if it has power only when the AC and/or Defrost are selected from the dash control.  Typically, idle speed adjustment with the AC on is 50 - 150 RPM higher than idle speed with the AC off.  You can research the idle adjustment specs in the appropriate service manual for an exact RPM setting.

Alright thanks and its the light green one for sure its just dirty and hard to see in the pic.

[boulky12]

Well great news guys I took off the Idle stop solenoid off another truck, slapped it on mine, and now it dosen't die in gear with the A/C on.

I drove my old squarebody with Cold A/C blowing in my face for the first time. It was awesome!

I did notice the rpm's are really low though when I made complete stops but it never died. It sounds bada** like it's cammed but I also dont want it to stall out. What would I adjust for that? The Idle speed screw? Or is the Idle stop Solenoid adjustable?

And as for my compressor clutch sticking, I've done the research on replacing just the clutch, you need special tools and the clutch is pretty expensive, so I'm just gonna get a whole new compressor and clutch when I get the chance. For now I'll just keep smackin that clutch hah.

Thank you guys so much for helping me get this far

[Engineer]

Your A/C compressor problem is simple to fix.

Basically when the clutch coil is energized the pulley becomes a magnet. The magnet pulls the clutch into engagement.

What has happened to your compressor is the clutch has worn to the point that the clutch is too far away for the magnetic field to pull it in. The coil is still strong because it holds the clutch in once engaged.

You may not need any special tools to fix this. Try tapping the center hub of the clutch in with a hammer while tightening the little nut inside the hub. If you can get the air gap down to .020" then your clutch should work fine.

[boulky12]

Your A/C compressor problem is simple to fix.

Basically when the clutch coil is energized the pulley becomes a magnet. The magnet pulls the clutch into engagement.

What has happened to your compressor is the clutch has worn to the point that the clutch is too far away for the magnetic field to pull it in. The coil is still strong because it holds the clutch in once engaged.

You may not need any special tools to fix this. Try tapping the center hub of the clutch in with a hammer while tightening the little nut inside the hub. If you can get the air gap down to .020" then your clutch should work fine.

Cool. I'll try that out man. Thanks

[bd]

Adjust the solenoid using the hex plunger that pushes against the throttle lever. 

Although the air gap on the clutch is crucial to function, make sure there isn't a simple electrical problem due to poor connection(s).  Use a meter to measure the voltage at the clutch coil connector.  Connect the meter negative probe to a good clean bare ground then probe both wires connecting to the clutch coil, in turn, using the positive probe.  The green wire should measure battery voltage (or charging system if the engine is running) and the black wire should measure zero.  Post the results.

[boulky12]

Adjust the solenoid using the hex plunger that pushes against the throttle lever. 

Although the air gap on the clutch is crucial to function, make sure there isn't a simple electrical problem due to poor connection(s).  Use a meter to measure the voltage at the clutch coil connector.  Connect the meter negative probe to a good clean bare ground then probe both wires connecting to the clutch coil, in turn, using the positive probe.  The green wire should measure battery voltage (or charging system if the engine is running) and the black wire should measure zero.  Post the results.

Alright I was thinking there was a reason that plunger had a hex on it.

And one of the first things I did was clean all connections and ground but I'll go ahead and get those readings just to see.

[LTZ C20]

I'm pretty good but Vile and BD can help you much better than I can. I would continue with their suggestions.

[boulky12]

Alright guys its fixed. My compressor is functioning perfectly now.

I went to orielly's to rent out the A/C clutch tools. When I tried to use them none of them would screw on. I think the threads on the shaft holding the clutch are stripped. So after I couldn't get that to work I decided to try to hammer that sucker in like Engineer said.

I took off my top fan shroud to get more clearance. I was smacking the clutch in with a 4lb mini sledge hammer and a piece of wood in between. And I also used one of those rubber dead blows. I kept track of the gap using a business card. Once I felt good resistance on the card I stopped. I tried to tighten that little nut inside the hub, but it just made the whole compressor spin, so i just left it.

So far so good. I've turned it on and off several times and been driving her and it's working perfectly.

Thank you guys so much for helping me get cold A/C in my truck.

[78BIG-TEN]

Adjust the air gap on the compressor clutch hub.I wouldn't hit it with a hammer
cause you could damage the compressor.Most chain parts store rent the tools to replace
the clutch.It's simple just remove the shaft nut and install tool and push hub on
till you reduce the clearance..020 should be good although it may be hard to measure
due to wear.You can either re-install the nut or leave it off.Most new compressors
of that style won't have one