Author Topic: Some Dumbie Pulled-out In Front of My '77 K20 and Now I'm Looking at Bodywork  (Read 6961 times)

Offline ehjorten

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So a few weeks ago I decided to get my '77 K20 out of the shop and drive it around a bit.  I hadn't driven it in a while so I figured it was time to warm it up and get the fluids moving!  Dropped the kids off with their Mom and was driving home along a small, local back-road.  Some guy decided to pull-out from a stop sign where I had none and had the right-of-way and I had to panic stop.  I couldn't go around him because there was an on-coming vehicle that was rounding the corner, plus I didn't know if he was going to stop or continue out.  He stopped broadside in the middle of my lane and I did a 90° pirouette on the wet streets and my Passenger's side, rear bed connected with his Driver's side front quarter!

No one was hurt and we both were able to drive away, but I was hot and I knew I was going to now have to deal with getting it fixed!  Called the cops and also opened a claim with my insurance right there on my smartphone.  I have a really good restoration shop that I have engaged on fixing the truck, but now my questions...

It looks like it may be a wash to just get a whole new bedside versus the labor to cut and put a patch panel in.  The new bedsides always need some work and while the sides unbolt it is still some work to get it done!  It is a '77 and I have always wanted to get rid of the filler cap on the side of the bed.

If I do a '79 bedside with the door, is the fuel opening of my new '77 fuel tanks going to be the same size as the '79 filler neck?  I think it is.  I think they didn't upsize the fuel hole in the tanks until like '83 or '84.

I also realize that I still have the other side tank that would also need a door, but 15 hours at $90/hour of patching is a lot of money.  Perhaps I can get both bedsides completed?!

One final thought...do these bedsides actually have foam up inside the inner and outer panel?  The body shop owner said they do!

Thanks,
-Erik-
1991 V3500 - Gen V TBI 454, 4L80E, NP205, 14 bolt FF, D60, 8" Lift on 35s
1977 K20 Silverado - 350, THM350, NP203, 14 bolt FF, D44, Stock Lift on 31s
1969 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe - EFI350, THM350
1968 Chevrolet Step-side Pickup - 300HP L6

Offline LTZ C20

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You will have to get the correct metal filler neck that bolts to the bed side to use a later style bed side with the fuel door. No, they do not have foam between the panels.
LTZ Cheyenne C20

Offline ehjorten

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Yeah...I knew I would need the correct filler neck for the '79 fuel door.  I was just wondering if the hose that fit to the neck was the same size as the hose that fit to my '77 fuel tanks.  I would love to eliminate the splashing of fuel all down the side of the bed every time I fill up!
-Erik-
1991 V3500 - Gen V TBI 454, 4L80E, NP205, 14 bolt FF, D60, 8" Lift on 35s
1977 K20 Silverado - 350, THM350, NP203, 14 bolt FF, D44, Stock Lift on 31s
1969 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe - EFI350, THM350
1968 Chevrolet Step-side Pickup - 300HP L6

Offline fitz

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Have you looked into buying a nice clean used bed?
Even in Massachusetts nice rust free beds can be found for $1,000.  That might be a better alternative to a patch panel or aftermarket bedside.

Offline ehjorten

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It is an idea, but I am definitely going for the full repair cost out of the guys insurance!  I just hope it is not a battle because the guy has Bristol West Insurance (part of Farmer's) and I have heard nothing but bad news about them!
-Erik-
1991 V3500 - Gen V TBI 454, 4L80E, NP205, 14 bolt FF, D60, 8" Lift on 35s
1977 K20 Silverado - 350, THM350, NP203, 14 bolt FF, D44, Stock Lift on 31s
1969 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe - EFI350, THM350
1968 Chevrolet Step-side Pickup - 300HP L6

Offline roundhouse

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Be easier to find a good used bed
Where you located ?



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Offline winky

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ive bought a few decent beds in the $350 range around here. I work in the collision business and to me it'd make more sense to buy a used bed if one in good condition can be found reasonably. This way your only out some minor body work and paint labor.

Offline roundhouse

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It is an idea, but I am definitely going for the full repair cost out of the guys insurance!  I just hope it is not a battle because the guy has Bristol West Insurance (part of Farmer's) and I have heard nothing but bad news about them!
Oh. It will mostl likely be a battle
With any ins co

My 74 bronco got rearended and their ins co offered $550 to replace the rear bumper , trailer hitch , gas tank and skid plate

I eventually got $2600 from them
But it took a fight and a few visits to a chiropractor


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Offline ehjorten

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Still waiting on the other guys insurance company.  I had to get an estimate and take pictures to send to them.  I know what they are trying to do...they are trying to value the truck.  Hard to do when there are no comparable 1977 or 1978 K20s within 150 miles of me.  Now they will try to go the licensed dealer quote route and I am sure that will fail or they will try to low-ball me!  They already said...the repair shop is a little high on labor rate ($90/hour).  This isn't Louisiana...body repair is expensive in the PNW!
-Erik-
1991 V3500 - Gen V TBI 454, 4L80E, NP205, 14 bolt FF, D60, 8" Lift on 35s
1977 K20 Silverado - 350, THM350, NP203, 14 bolt FF, D44, Stock Lift on 31s
1969 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe - EFI350, THM350
1968 Chevrolet Step-side Pickup - 300HP L6

Offline ehjorten

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Got my check last week for the full estimated repair cost!  I had to hound them and I raised several issues with their CCC One valuation and the Experian AutoCheck information they provided.  They wanted to say they were going to salvage my truck and only give me $1,800!  I still have some serious concerns about their valuation practice and I may still contact the Washington State Insurance Commissioner.

Now to get my truck fixed.  I was thinking about finding a '79+ long bed with the fuel-doors and swapping over, but there are not any decent beds like that near me.  Closest one is 160 miles away and the wrecking yard is only open Monday-Friday.  I did get them to send me pictures, but only a few and it looks like one side might have some issues hidden under bondo and fresh primer.

I was thinking about just buying all new bed parts and building a fresh bed!  Anyone have experience with all of the new bed parts, including the floor?  I priced it all out and for everything it would be about $2,800.  My check was for $4,320 for the repairs.
-Erik-
1991 V3500 - Gen V TBI 454, 4L80E, NP205, 14 bolt FF, D60, 8" Lift on 35s
1977 K20 Silverado - 350, THM350, NP203, 14 bolt FF, D44, Stock Lift on 31s
1969 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe - EFI350, THM350
1968 Chevrolet Step-side Pickup - 300HP L6

Offline fitz

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Vile built a new bed for one of his trucks a few years ago.  Hopefully he will see this and let you know how it went.

Offline 1967KaiserM715

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My bed(as it came when I bought it) is definitely aftermarket, the material is thin and light, it would probably work if you don't plan to use it as a work/haul truck.

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Current Vehicles:1985 GMC K10(Daily) 1991 GMC K2500(Daily) 1975 Beetle(not running) 1985 Mercedes 300D(not running) 1952 M35    1967 M715(not running)
 1986 Chevy K30(under repair)

Offline VileZambonie

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My suggestion would be to find a good used bed even if not local it will probably cost less than the amount to build new and fine tune it. The one I did, I had a lot of time and $ into to make it right. I could have bought several used beds for the cost. Now replacing a bedside is not a major deal but you may run into fitment issues, oil canning etc which will require a lot of body work in many cases. I prefer the round gas hole as opposed to the gas door look but that is preference and not a big deal to switch up. Good luck
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