Engine break in???

[COREY13]

So I tried a search and couldn't find what I was looking for. I have a question about the break in on my motor, I just finished the rebuild, and I rebuilt completely to stock, I guess you can actually just say I did a re ring and new bearing job, but I was wondering what I needed to do for break in since I didn't replace cam, crank, or anything like that, just the gaskets and rings. I took the block to a machine shop with the crank and cam and they said all of that was good, no need for any work on the block nor cam/ crank replacement, so I went with what I have. Getting ready to put the motor in her and I'm not sure if I need to do a break in as if I built a motor with brand new parts or not. Any help would be great thanks

Charlie

[VileZambonie]

Avoid extensive idling, dial in your timing and operate it through a complete warm-up cycle while you burp the cooling system and adjust your tune. Once everything is set and tuned it's a good idea to then change the oil and filter. To burnish the rings essentially drive it with several idle stop to 3/4 - full throttle accelerations, loading the engine up hill etc. Contrary to what many think, you basically want to drive it like you expect it to perform. Don't baby it but of course don't overdo it either

[XrayTedd]

And make sure you add zinc to your oil.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[Stewart G Griffin]

Avoid extensive idling, dial in your timing and operate it through a complete warm-up cycle while you burp the cooling system and adjust your tune. Once everything is set and tuned it's a good idea to then change the oil and filter. To burnish the rings essentially drive it with several idle stop to 3/4 - full throttle accelerations, loading the engine up hill etc. Contrary to what many think, you basically want to drive it like you expect it to perform. Don't baby it but of course don't overdo it either

There we go---some good detail.  That didn't hurt did it?

[SkinnyG]

Since you didn't change the cam, initial start up will be easy.

Like Vile says, after it's warmed up and all, change the oil - but do not look at it, it will be all sparkly goodness and you'll think you're engine has died.

Once it's running, no death noises or leaks, the next step is to seat the rings like Vile says.  In a low gear, I am full on and off the throttle up to the redline to load the pistons on acceleration AND deceleration.  Usually about 20 minutes of this and you're good. 

Sometimes after I burn about a tank of gas I change the oil again.  Sometimes sooner. Changing oil is like changing underpants - there is nothing to be gained by increasing the service interval.

This is a good write up on it: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[COREY13]

Thanks for the instructions and the detail you gave me on them, I know the process is a little different when your breaking in a cam. Do I need to run break in oil or is there a certain weight oil I should use? Or is a link additive enough?

[SkinnyG]

We didn't have "break in oil" way back in the day, we just ran oil, and our engines all ran fine.

You will probably be just fine.

[philo_beddoe]

When VZ installed my new engine, he told me to drive it like i stole-it.  That was tough for me to do since i tend to drive it like an old lady. But i did get on it now and then. Sure miss my 70 chevelle SS. I love to rip in cars, but have trouble with trucks. Dont know why.

Nonetheless, the engine broke in beautifully.

[berserk]

We didn't have "break in oil" way back in the day, we just ran oil, and our engines all ran fine.

You will probably be just fine.

Back in the day oil had the proper levels of zinc and you didn't need to run anything special.
TODAY If your NOT running break in oil with a new cam or oil with proper zinc levels/additive after break in you will be saying goodbye to your cam lobes.

[philo_beddoe]

We didn't have "break in oil" way back in the day, we just ran oil, and our engines all ran fine.

You will probably be just fine.

Back in the day oil had the proper levels of zinc and you didn't need to run anything special.
TODAY If your NOT running break in oil with a new cam or oil with proper zinc levels/additive after break in you will be saying goodbye to your cam lobes.

Right, VZ did the initial break in with the full ZDDP dose. Now, to reach the 1200 ppm, i add only 4 oz. to my regular oil. Already been down that zddp debate road. Not going back.  My new crate gm goodwrench 350 and I are happy. I can never find old posts, but i think it was rich weyand who posted some good info on the zddp topic.

[SkinnyG]

Back in the day oil had the proper levels of zinc and you didn't need to run anything special.

That's a fair point.

[Flyinhillbilly]

We didn't have "break in oil" way back in the day, we just ran oil, and our engines all ran fine.

You will probably be just fine.

Yeah, I learned that one the hard way. In '06 I built
A small block after a hiatus and wiped out 4 (that's not a typo) cams in a row. I'd rip
It all apart, swap bearings, clean it real good and go again with a new cam. The 3rd and 4th time I just left the valve covers off on the initial fire up and literally stood there and watched the lift go away. I was ready to try a different block by the time I figured out what was going on. I use O'reilly 15-40 with a bottle of STP to break them in now, now trouble in 10 years with that oil.