79 C10/350 died...then came back to life.

[kopeck]

Well...

They didn't have a MSD but they did have a Accel kit.  I know it's at least a known brand.

It seems better built then the other one, a tad heavier.  It's of course a brown/gold color.  Better then the tan one I had right? *cough*

I hope to slap it back together tomorrow.

K

[kopeck]

Put it all together and it started right up and idled fine.  Gave it a little throttle and it ran rough.  I took it out on the road and every time you gave it even a little gas it would break up pretty bad.

Nursed it home, pulled the cap and got out my multi-meter.  From what I see I should .5 and .6 between BAT and TACH.  I'm getting .6 OHMS.

The next test is between BAT and the carbon button, I should be seeing between 6k and 30k, I'm getting an infinite reading.

I also see a test between ground and the button, I guess I should see between 5k and 11k I'm getting 7k.

Just double checking my self here but I have a bad coil don't I?

K

[kopeck]

After a bit more reading it looks like an infinite reading between the button and BAT is normal.  Maybe the other reading was for older OE coils?

I've seen multiple people post see the same thing.  They do the test, find the reading between BAT and the button to be infinite, order a new coil only to find the new one test the same way.

The strange thing is it ran better with that burned up cap and button then it does now.  The only thing I changed was the cap.  The tab on the rotor is making contact with the button.

K

[bd]

• Verify the spark plug wire firing order, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
  
  
• Remove the distributor cap and flip it upside-down.  Post images showing the bare primary terminals on the side of the cap and the pickup coil wire pair and connector plugged into the ICM.

When you replaced the ICM, did you clean and then liberally apply dielectric grease to the underside of the new module and its mounting surface?

[kopeck]

I hope to get out with a clear head and look at everything really close today.  Working after 9:00pm isn't ideal for me....

I did double check the firing order, triple checked even.  It idled just fine but as the RPMs increased it started running rough.  It's almost like the advance wasn't working.

I did clean everything up and I did apply the thermal paste to the underside of the module.

I have new plugs.  I a moment of weakness I picked up a rebuilt (NAPA) distributor.  I had instant buyers remorse though.  It was kind of expensive and when I got home and looked it over it really looked like they just put the parts though the washer, threw some new weights in and called it a day.  All the electrical stuff looked "vintage".

I'm going to work with what I have and if I really need a new unit I'm going to go with something that's really new.

I'm also planning on testing the wires.  Summit says they should be 270 ohms per foot.

K

[kopeck]

Checked the wires, they're OK, the longest one read 627 ohms.  Installed new plugs.  Even installed the old coil, same deal.  Starts fine, idles fine.  You can run the RPMs with no load and it seems OK.  Drive it and normal acceleration causes it to break up bad.  You can be really easy on it and coax it up to 35 or so but after that i just wants to run like crap.

Are these what you wanted for pictures?

K

[bd]

Replace the distributor.

[kopeck]

It's that time eh?  Thanks for being patient with me, I really appreciate the help.

One thing I did today (didn't have a ton of time being it's Easter) is I stuck the timing light on it.  It had an initial timing of between 5 and 6 degrees.  I bumped it up to the 8 that's on the sticker, I had 20 degrees total timing after that.

I kind of doubt 2 degrees is going to do much.  I know I've read a lot of folks like to have 12+ degrees initial and 30+ total.  To get to that total I would have to be running like 18 initial, that seems kind of high.  Maybe my distributor just doesn't have that much advance in it...

K

[kopeck]

Time for an update!  Got the new distributor in and it runs!  Not really sure what was wrong but the engine runs pretty well.  It's still a tired, leaky 350 but at least it goes.  I am going to have to go and play with the carb a bit as it's picked idle RPM.  Just didn't have time plus I ran into something new...

I noticed is it almost sounded like there was some spark knock going on, at least that's what I thought it was.  It seemed to come on under slight to medium load.  I ran it like that all day thinking it might just be old gas and wanted to get the tank down so I could get some fresh stuff.  It got louder and louder and it's become clear it's not spark knock at all.  It sounds like something hitting a heat shield and by the time I got home there was an occasional squeal as well.  It was intermittent though.  I spent an hour crawling around under truck wiggling stuff and couldn't find anything.  The only thing I did notice is that with one rear wheel jacked off the ground and the truck in neutral there was a low whine that came from the transmission when I rotated the drive shaft.  Not sure if that's normal or not.

I tired to pull the dust cover to take a peek at the flex plate the the exhaust wont let me pull it out.

With the windows closed it sound like it's coming from below the cab, with the windows open and my head hanging out it sounds more like it's coming from under the bed.

If it's not one things it's another...

K

[bd]

Pick up a 3' long, 1.25" ID Vulco coolant hose.  Use that as a flexible listening tube to isolate the source of the noise.  The hose will dampen ambient noises coming in from the sides while it channels sound from the open end of the tube.  It functions somewhat like a stethoscope, but is better suited to high-noise environments.

[kopeck]

Thanks for the tip, I've done that with big screw driver before but it only seems to make noise going about 35 - 45MPH.  Not sure I want to be under the truck then. 

I think I might have the local shop give it a look.  He's a recently "retired" dealership mechanic who worked on wide bodies when they were new.  I'm all about DIY but I think this might be easier to chase with it on the lift.

Truth be told I think time is just catching up with the old girl  The engine needs a rebuild, the transmission probably does too.

K

[kopeck]

I'm 99% sure the front U-Joint is toast.  Still seems tight but the noise is most defiantly coming from that area.

I hate it when the Distributor takes out a U-Joint...

K

[kopeck]

Just to add a little closure, the front U-Joint was on it's way out.  More dry then anything, replaced the rear while I was at it.

No more funning noises, the truck seems to be running pretty well for what it is.  I think it's time to start making a plan for "reconditioning" though...That's for another thread.  Right now I'll drive.

Thanks for the help,

K

[bd]

Glad to hear you got it all sorted out.  Well done!

[VileZambonie]

Just an FYI, don't use "performance" components in a stock application like Accel. They typically use low resistance carbon buttons and you will end up with a burned through cap. Always use high quality ignition components and don't mismatch parts/brands.