Rear brakes

[chiefmiller84]

Rear brakes stick after sitting for a while. I have to step on the gas pretty good to get the truck rolling. Right now it's not an issue, but when the snow hits I'll be sliding everywhere before I even start to take off. Since i need to work on the rear brakes I decided why not go with rear disk brakes? What is everyone using? I have the brothers,   and classic industries catalogs. It's an 83 c10 with stock wheels. I'm going to drop it in the future.


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[big_al273]

cheapest solution for you is to disassemble, clean, service, and reassemble with anti seize on all the metal to metal contact points, I did this when I bought my truck and it sat all last winter moved only once and the brakes still worked perfect in the spring, but be careful not to use too much as it will ooze and you don't want the anti seize on the pads or the inner drum surface

[VileZambonie]

Don't anti-seize anything. Use moly lube on the lands or white lithium. A hardware kit and proper adjustment of your rear brakes should remedy your issue unless there is a wheel cylinder issue. Machine or replace the drums. Better than disc conversion

[bd]

This ^^^^^^

[big_al273]

Don't anti-seize anything. Use moly lube on the lands or white lithium. A hardware kit and proper adjustment of your rear brakes should remedy your issue unless there is a wheel cylinder issue. Machine or replace the drums. Better than disc conversion

sparingly applied anti seize on the steel to steel contact points is effectively the same as your suggestion however the cost is much lower for a tub of anti seize than the small tubes of "specialized" brake lube, my personal hands on mechanical experience has shown me that in the real world the anti seize is a better option, this is not only my opinion it is mirrored by my companies head mechanic and my father who is his own mechanic. but if you want to pay more for a product that does the same thing that's your call, white lithium grease is reserved for metal to metal contact points that are also in contact with rubber such as disc caliper sliders and their boots where the anti seize would affect the rubber boots, but outside of this you are burning money.

[VileZambonie]

8 oz of anti seize costs $6.93

1 lb of Moly Lube costs $3.43

Anti-seize should be used sparingly in extremely limited circumstances (oxygen sensor threads) and is considered by most mechanics as the worst messy substance ever. It spreads like a disease and gets all over everything. You will find few OEM service procedures indicating the use of anti seize compounds. 1 8oz bottle should last a mechanic their entire life and allow them to pass it on for generations.  Components that need to come apart and are subject to the extremes may benefit from the compound but in general, it makes a mess and adds risk of contamination. I guess you either love it or you hate it.

[bd]

Again, I agree with Vile.  Adding to what he said, anti-seize also has a tendency to "dry out" as the volatile components dissipate, causing it to become gummy after awhile - producing the exact opposite effect of what one would expect.  Anti-seize has its uses, but I wouldn't recommend it for lubricating brake automatic adjusters.  Still, not everyone's experience is the same and some prefer it.  For oxygen sensors and high heat applications nickel based anti-seize has superior properties over the standard automotive grade, but at a much higher price.

[big_al273]

absolutely agree about anti seize spreading like a disease lol, it's a love-hate relationship just like grease. but everything I've ever anti seized has always come apart with zero issues (even when it's dried out) so I learned to keep extra rags handy cause as (not) fun as it is to clean up, it works and when I dig into other people's vehicles all the stuff I normally anti seize on my vehicles is usually stiff, rusty or seized up with out it, but everything up here gets the crap salted and sanded out of it for 4-7 months of the year so that could be a factor some of you don't have to deal with