making stock brakes great again

[gwcrim]

In this thread:  http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=27999 the idea is put forth that the stock brakes, if "up to snuff" are pretty darn good.  I want to believe that and I want to achieve that.

My 1980 C10 needs help.  It rolled out of the factory with non-power disk/drums.  I've recently replaced the master cylinder, disks, calipers, hoses, pads and had the drums turned.  The pedal is not firm and the rear brakes lock up early.  I did the front, I had a mechanic do the rear. I took it to a shop and had them bled.  In my opinion, they suck.

In October the poor truck ended up on a guard rail because the rear end locked up.  This needs fixed.

What specifically can I do to make my stock brakes great again?

[zieg85]

First off if the pedal isn't firm there is air in it somewhere.  Did you bench bleed the master before you put it on?

[gwcrim]

No, it was not.

[gwcrim]

It was bled after installation. I've done it this way in the past on my `70 Challenger and it worked fine.

[zieg85]

Some work fine while others don't.  You need to bench bleed it.  You don't need to take it off the truck but take the lines off and return it back into the reservoir to get all the bubbles out.

[VileZambonie]

You need to bench bleed the MC or air will be trapped in the system. Nevertheless if your truck is equipped without power brakes, they will never perform well. At the very least I would recommend upgrading to power brakes.

[zieg85]

You need to bench bleed the MC or air will be trapped in the system. Nevertheless if your truck is equipped without power brakes, they will never perform well. At the very least I would recommend upgrading to power brakes.

I'd put my manual against any power brakes.  Yes it requires more foot/leg pressure but mine stops as good as any...

[VileZambonie]

You need to bench bleed the MC or air will be trapped in the system. Nevertheless if your truck is equipped without power brakes, they will never perform well. At the very least I would recommend upgrading to power brakes.

I'd put my manual against any power brakes.  Yes it requires more foot/leg pressure but mine stops as good as any...

lol okay let's race....or stop I mean

[bd]

Race to a stop....  What a novel idea!  lol

[VileZambonie]

I remember back when we had DMV inspections and part of the inspection was the stopping pad. So we had a guy with a C10 6 cyl, 3 on the tree, manual steering, manual brakes long bed. The DMV guy kept failing him even though the brakes were as true as they could be. I finally got the inspector to allow me to perform the stop after the 3rd fail because truly he couldn't operate it correctly. All I know is there was nothing enjoyable about driving or stopping that truck!

[hatzie]

Don't just upgrade the Master and booster.  It's a system. 
You will need the proper pushrod and pedal.   
You'll need to do some research to make sure the non power calipers, drum components, and combination valve are the same as the power setup.

[gwcrim]

My Challenger was pretty stout for a street car.  It had 11" manual DRUMS on all 4 corners.  Fred Flintstone had a better set up.  It shook like a dog passing a peach pit.

I drove this truck home the day my dad bought it brand new.  The brakes were good enough new.  Something isn't right now.  Even though I bled the MC several times with a helper, I suppose that could be the problem.  During my online research today, someone somewhere mentioned that the pedal and rod won't push all the air out.

Not looking forward to this.  Brake fluid everywhere.  Climbing under the dash.  Blah!

[bd]

In general, it sounds like a tripped combination valve, because of air trapped in the front half of the system.  Does the park brake warning lamp illuminate with ignition on?

[gwcrim]

In general, it sounds like a tripped combination valve, because of air trapped in the front half of the system.  Does the park brake warning lamp illuminate with ignition on?

I thought about that but the light doesn't come on.  It sure is in a hard to get to location.

[bd]

As in, never illuminates under any circumstances - even when the park brake is set?  Is the tan wire connected to the switch on the combination valve?  Does the dash telltale illuminate if you ground the tan wire at the combination valve?  Generally, the valve can be recentered w/o removal.