RE: Radiators:

[Stewart G Griffin]

1) What's the best all-around radiator period, regardless of price?

Can be custom/aftermarket.  For example "Be Cool" etc.

Money no object.

2) What's the best stock-type radiator?

Money no object.

[VileZambonie]

The best radiator is the one that has the best cooling capacity, the best warranty and is readily available to you in your area.

[Stewart G Griffin]

i agree, but i was wondering about brands maybe....

[VileZambonie]

There is no king of the hill anymore in the auto parts business. It's about supply and demand, who's cheaper and who can get it faster is the name of the game. Avoid the value line (aka the cheap junk), try to buy local so you don't down your vehicle for saving a few bucks on mail order stuff unless it's not something that would impact you that way. Branding means very little to mechanics in the auto parts biz these days. The branding is rebadging and very often from the same manufacturer. Duralast for example is a fictitious parts manufacturer. It is all rebranded for AutoZone, so again, buy based on price, availability and warranty but stay away from the value line. Those parts are inferior and end up in used car lot vehicles to increase profitability.

[Stewart G Griffin]

Ok, understood.

[AZ4X4SQBDY]

The original radiator in your truck had brass tanks and a copper tube core, due to the expense of materials, most are made with an aluminum core and plastic tanks today. This is the standard of the industry and what you would buy at a auto parts store.

 You could still have your radiator re cored which is where they solder your old brass tanks onto a new center with the tubes, fins and end plates if you want it to be as original as possible but the truth be told, a aluminum core is a better choice because it does not corrode or have solder bloom obstruct the tubes after a couple years. A radiator shop can do this but often they just will sell you what the auto parts store is selling you.

They also offer all aluminum radiators that have aluminum tanks welded on to a aluminum core, these are more expensive and should last the longest. The disadvantage to these is you need to modify the mounts to fit it correctly. Most people don't and end up wearing holes in the tanks where it rubs.

Switching to a aluminum core radiator allows you to switch to Dexcool or other OAT coolant if you chose to.

Here is an article that explains different types of coolants used today and why:
 
https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2014/08/01/tech-101-the-colors-of-antifreeze/

This is an article/ad about electrolysis created in a cooling system and how to prevent this.
 
http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101

My '87 GMC had a aluminum cored radiator in it when I bought it and the coolant was always a muddy color. I ran a cooling system cleaner for several weeks and then flushed it and back flushed it 4 times before it was clean enough that it didn't discolor the new antifreeze.

[VileZambonie]

Be very careful leaving cleaners in for more than one heat cycle before you flush it. They will cause more harm than good at that point.

[Stewart G Griffin]

1) i don't see a part number listed for a 81-87 c-10 for AC Delco?

2) Griffin has recently had not good reviews.

3) Mishimotos appear to have a good product and virtually all great reviews and the price is reasonable at $320-ish.

4) Be Cool # 60013 and 62013  seem to be high-quality, but i don't think i need to spend $600-700.

5) Carquest (Advance auto parts) #433840 at $133
Not exact fit according to several reviews.

6) Spectra (Pepboys/Autzone) $90-$100
No confidence per the reviews.

Be very careful leaving cleaners in for more than one heat cycle before you flush it. They will cause more harm than good at that point.

Well, this radiator is likely toasted anyways as i can't get it clean even after leaving the prestone flush in there for over a week.   It was in there when i first got the truck, so it likely needs to be replaced anyways.


i am basically looking for dependability, durability and quality, not flash.   Remember i only have 262 cubes here...........

[VileZambonie]

What's the year, make, model, engine, at/mt, ac non ac, heavy duty or standard cooling and which radiator support do you have? didn't you swap engines? Did you ever upgrade the radiator?

[Henry]

Hi Stewart:
I have been messing around with the radiator on my 76 C-20 recently and my local radiator shop tells me that the all copper old radiator in my truck was manufactured by Modine who made the best radiators in the day...and are still considered better quality than modern radiators which are designed for economy of manufacture and low cost. I believe Modine and one other company I cannot remember the name of were the original suppliers to GM in the 60s, 70s, and early 80s. I do not know if they are available anymore, but I see in the restoration catalogs that Classic Ind has a good selection of original style copper radiators. My local radiator shop can get me anything, and if you have a reputable shop they should be able to find anything with their old catalogs.

I am not a fan of aluminum radiators for a street vehicle...aluminum is not as efficient a conductor of heat as copper, and aluminum will corrode faster than copper. I also do not think aluminum accepts a braze joint as well as copper in the manufacturing process. I would also steer away from those swaged on side tanks with o-rings...this is just a cost saving measure for manufacturing. To me, there is only one reason you would want an aluminum radiator: light weight for racing.

My high jinx: I installed a 3-row copper radiator in my truck many years ago as a replacement for my factory 2-row when it finally crapped out...more is better right? Despite assurances by my friends that it was a straight swap with no fit problems, it did have fit problems: the rubber cushions needed to be swapped out, the shroud just barely did not clip on at the bottom, and the engine cowl just touched the tank seam which caused a pin hole leak after many years. Even though I have done a lot of heavy towing with my truck over the years, I cannot tell if that 3-row made any difference over the 2-row....the two row was plenty adequate.

My advice: go with the factory design copper radiator that fits your truck and engine as original as it was an excellent design for max cooling, fit, reliability, and repairability.

Related issue: I noticed that the aluminum water neck that bolts to the OEM cast iron intake on my truck was corroding very fast (I have replaced them at least 3 times over the last 20 years)...when I found a cast iron water neck, this corrosion problem went away...so having that galvanic pair of aluminum and cast iron together was a real no-no. This is another reason I would discourage an aluminum radiator in a basically stock engine arrangement: minimize the galvanic couples to minimize corrosion.

My 2 cents,
Henry   

[Henry]

Hi Stewart:
Sorry, I misspoke on my last post: the original factory radiator in my 76 C-20 (Camper Special) was a 3-row copper radiator and I replaced it with a 4-row copper radiator...overkill.
-Henry

[VileZambonie]

Aluminum radiators dissipate heat better than copper.

[Stewart G Griffin]

What's the year, make, model, engine, at/mt, ac non ac, heavy duty or standard cooling and which radiator support do you have? didn't you swap engines? Did you ever upgrade the radiator?

Original equipment radiator was/is

83 1/2 ton 2wd
305 v-8 federal
auto trans
AC equipped
Pretty sure standard cooling.  Not sure what radiator support i have?

The v-6 hoses bolt directly to the v8 radiator.  So, i think it's simpler just to keep with a v-8 radiator.  That plus more cooling capacity.

[Henry]

Hi Stewart:
If your truck had a 305 V8 with associated radiator and now you installed a V6 and kept the V8 radiator, and it hooks up to all the V6 connections, it sounds as if this model radiator is your benchmark for a replacement. I dont think there is any GM service manual  that will decipher exactly which radiator came with your truck unless it was an optional radiator on your RPO sheet. You will just have to find a replacement based on dimensions and features. Typically, the basic measurements are for the core (excluding the tank dims). Look inside the filler to see how many rows you have (you probably have a 2 or 3 row). Note the sizes of the heater connections, and if you need the trans cooler connections. Can you re-use your old upper and lower support cushions? If not, measure the tank thickness at the braze seams as this is probably where the upper and lower cushions rest...the cushions also have to be bought on size. There are different upper radiator supports as well...do you not already have one that fits your radiator and cushions? Can you re-use your V8 fan shroud?...if not, this could be a fit problem. My thoughts are that  radiator for a 305 V8 is perfectly adequate for a 262 V6 cooling requirement unless you are dealing with a high performance engine to be used on a circle track or off road racing.
Good Luck,
Henry