Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.

[Spool]

The spark plugs are below my exhaust manifold.
Currently, only a few cables (3) sit near a header that are individually heat wrapped.

Attached is a picture of the Passenger Side.

[bd]

All of the spark plug boots on the 9608U are 90° whereas the 9608N has a couple of straight boots.  Running headers can change the fit requirements, so you will have to choose by trial and error.  I suspect 90° spark plug boots will provide the best fit.  All of the HEI distributor cap ends are 90°.

[Spool]

Thank you.

I see the 9608U are 8mm wide. Is this an appropriate width for a spark plug cable in my scenario?
What is the difference of having a wider cable than a thinner one?

[bd]

The thicker the insulation the more durable the wire and the greater the dielectric capacity (the lower its susceptibility to insulation breakdown and arc perforation).  Too thick and the wires won't fit the wire guides.

[Spool]

Very interesting. I was unaware of dielectric.
So this to say, the spark wire cable itself has no conductor within it and the electricity travels from the distributor to the spark plug merely by force?

I'll go ahead and grab these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-9608U-Professional-Spark-Plug/dp/B000S2VWGQ

[bd]

So this to say, the spark wire cable itself has no conductor within it and the electricity travels from the distributor to the spark plug merely by force?

lol  - If this were the case, the wire insulation would have to be two feet thick.

No, there is a conductive core centered within the wires, typically either a carbon impregnated fiberglass or Kevlar cord (factory style wires) or a fine alloy wire filament spiral-wound around a Kevlar core (many higher-performance aftermarket wires).  The fiberglass/Kevlar core imparts strength to the core while remaining flexible.  "Dielectric" refers to the effectiveness of the insulation or its voltage tolerance.

[bd]

When the new wires arrive, be aware that the boots are not the same from end-to-end.  They are manufactured from different materials.  The spark plug boots are more tolerant of high temperature due to their proximity to the exhaust.  Look at them closely and you will see a subtle difference in their shapes.

[Spool]

Living and learning... Thank you though.
(I'm excited for the Physics classes coming up in the fall. More math in the spring first, Trigonometry starts next week.)

I found this video in my search which led to my question:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-542IYGBbpg&app=desktop

Speaking of which, should I be applying dielectric grease to my new boots when they arrive as shown in that video?

Also, should I be applying anti-seize grease on my new spark plugs?

I'll be sure to examine the boots of the cables when they arrive and/or take pictures if I become confused. Should be here Saturday.
(Cap and Rotor arrived today. 14 hours after I hit the purchase button, they arrived on my doorstep. What a world we live in...)

[Spool]

Some photos to show the replacement of the rotor and cap; she started right up.

[bd]

The things you 'learn' on the Internet....   

Although it is loosely referred to as "grease" because of its consistency, dielectric compound is not grease.

Yes, a dielectric compound is an insulator.  Too often, dielectric 'grease' is promoted by countermen as a superior coating for low voltage applications such as the sockets and bases of miniature bulbs and wire connections.  The only benefit it provides is that it rejects moisture.  But, because it's an insulator, it's a poor choice!  Always use an antioxidant paste for electrical connections.  Antioxidants reject moisture and dissolved salts, but also help minimize galvanic reactions and sink heat.  In a pinch, you can substitute a medium lithium grease.

Yes, a dielectric compound will help seal the boot against the spark plug porcelain and control arcing down the outside of the porcelain to ground.

No, a dielectric compound will not prevent arcing through the boots, but it will improve the service life of the boots by preventing the boots from adhering to the porcelain of the plugs so that the boots aren't strained or torn during subsequent removal.

Yes, use dielectric grease sparingly in the boots at both ends of the wires, but not for the reason given in the video.  Too much compound will seal the boot so well that it will prevent the escape of gases that collect inside the boot, causing the boot and wire to literally blow off and separate from the spark plug, resulting in a misfire.  Ignore the commentary regarding "no compound" on the terminals, too.  Instead, coat the terminals of the spark plug wires at both ends to help control corrosion and erosion.  The female terminals of the spark plug wires engage the male terminals of the spark plugs and HEI distributor cap towers with a positive snap and direct metal-to-metal contact, scraping away compound at the points of contact.  In addition, put a dab of dielectric compound on the end of the rotor and on each tower terminal inside the cap.  Dielectric compound in the arc path burns to a white fluffy ash that is conductive, yet adds a small amount of resistance to help control RFI.

Generally, do not apply anti-seize to spark plug threads in iron heads.  Anti-seize introduces a thermal barrier between the spark plug and head, which can lead to an increase in spark plug temperature.  Instead, use a few drops of SAE 30 motor oil.  The only exception is aluminum heads, with which you can use a sparing amount of copper anti-seize.

The natural sciences can be a lot of fun, not to mention useful on a regular basis.  If you're targeting a natural science degree, learn trig well. 

[bd]

Since you are giving it a tune-up, don't neglect the fuel filter and air filter.   

[Spool]

The air filter is fairly new, but how do I locate/replace the fuel filter?

[bd]

The factory fuel filter is located inside the carburetor behind the fuel inlet nut.  You will need a 1" angle head open end wrench and 5/8" 6-point flare nut wrench to remove the fuel line and the inlet nut.

[Spool]

Please excuse my late response, I had two 16 hour days back to back.

Once again, thank you.
The things I learn from you are greatly appreciated. I just spent time familiarizing myself with galvanic corrosion; it's exciting.

So, despite the pros, cons, and common beliefs of dielectric compound being used as a grease, it would be beneficial to use some sparingly on the inside of my boots as a mild lubricant?
Perhaps I'll use a q-tip to carefully do so.

I'll also use it on the terminals as you said, but I would like to ask why?
I think a good question may be, what is RFI?




In regards to my spark plugs.
I have copper spark plugs. So it would be best to coat the threads just a little bit with SAE 30?
My new torque wrench arrived today! So I'll be removing them all and torquing them correctly at 22.5lbs tomorrow.
(All except 1. The spark plug closest to the firewall on the driverside is too close to the header for me to get the spark plug socket on. I had to go underneath so that I could reach between the headers with a vise grip to carefully replace the one there now.)

My cables and new dust cover for my distributor arrive tomorrow.
I'll take care of this and then familiarize myself with the fuel filter.

Thanks again BD!

[bd]

RFI = Radio Frequency Interference  ---  Bookmark Common Automotive (& Shorthand) Acronyms

A film of dielectric compound coating the spark plug wire terminals helps shield the terminals from ozone and retards corrosion.  Don't misconstrue the advice.  Applying dielectric compound imparts subtle benefits, the greatest of which is to help prevent the boots from adhering to the plugs.  It isn't a necessary step and won't perform miracles.

Use a little motor oil on the spark plug threads.  "Copper" spark plugs simply means the conductive cores of the plugs are constructed using a copper alloy, which is an excellent thermal conductor.  Copper core plugs effectively provide a broader working heat range.

Once you gain the sense of 22 ft-lbs of torque you can dispense with the torque wrench and tighten the plugs by feel.  For spark plugs that are shrouded by headers and have limited access try a close quarters socket (imaged below).