Fuel Pump? Truck died... Can't diagnose.

[Spool]

Thanks Henry.

You certainly settled my nerves with the timing light.
An employer of mine, owner of 59' Ford F150, may be able to assist me in the timing light procedure. I've already reached out to him.


I haven't tested the Coil yet.
Irish, had posted instructions to do so,
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=29995.0
I didn't quite understand the process but believe mine is a Married Ignition Coil and upon visual inspection it doesn't show any signs of corrosion, cracks or oil leakage.


BD, had helped rewire the ignition around the coil using jumper leads and a test light which showed either the PUC, ICM, or Terminal Block was bad as I couldn't get the test light to illuminate; which is what led to the discussion of getting a new distributor.

As per the purchasing a Distributor, I've selected a different one just now for shipping concerns.
This one could arrive this weekend. Would this suffice? Correct voltage, size, etc?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VLF11CO/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00VLF11CO&pd_rd_wg=PhoL3&pd_rd_r=407YA4P5X7Z5WYFA9X33&pd_rd_w=UZDdC

BD, per your last post, in testing the PUC, if the PUC fails, what would you recommend?

[bd]

Either of the distributors you linked should suffice.  If the PUC fails its tests, replace the distributor.  If it passes, you have the option of replacing the ICM, which may resolve the issue without any guarantees.

[Spool]

Thanks BD.
I'm gonna go ahead and order the second distributor I shared.

I can't thank you enough for helping me, but I'm gonna bypass the PUC test to just get a guarantee in place to get my wheels working.
Asides from school, I work production and post production. Post production, editing, is done from home.
However, my production work is hurting from not having reliable transportation as some jobs are 30+ miles away.

With that, I'll order the distributor to fix/rule out ignition.
I'll see if I can grab assistance from the employer I mentioned as for the timing and experience.

Henry offered a helpful list on needed tools.
I began pricing timing lights, but it seems a sufficient one is $100. Is this about right?

[bd]

They vary in price over a broad range.  A basic timing light is not horribly expensive...

Harbor Freight

Innova

Sears Craftsman

Generally, the higher the cost, the more durable and reliable.  Yet, most should work fine and provide decent service if you take care of them.

[Henry]

Hi Spool:
The test for the coil that BD sent you is to be done with the cap of the distributor off with the coil still mounted in the cap. Position the cap upside down so you can see the spade terminals in the cap projected shroud. Test one is to check the resistance between the outermost two terminals which should be the same ones shown on BDs illustration. Resistance should be very close to 0 (on 1X scale) or as he has specified. If it doesnt pass this test, the coil is bad. If it passes this test, a second test must be performed: connect the ohm meter leads between the TACH terminal and the center terminal in the cap and take note of the reading on the highest scale.Take both ohm meter leads off. Then connect both ohm meter leads on the center terminal (of the group of 3 spade terminals) and the center terminal in the cap and take note of the reading. If both readings are infinite resistance, the coil is bad. This should be the second test in BDs illustration. If either reading is between 6K to 30K ohms, the coil is OK and the problem may be somewhere else like the ICM or PUC.

The distributor looks fine to me and I would expect when you get it the instructions may discuss the setting for the adjustable vac advance...hopefully it will be at a default setting that you dont have to adjust.

$100 for a timing light is a lot more than I would pay as a shade tree mechanic. I have a cheapie with a positive and negative lead and a spark plug wire clamp. I would also make sure it has a Xenon lamp as you need the brightness...nothing else required. I use mine about once every 5 years and so it doesnt get a lot of use and doesnt need to be high quality. Maybe the guy that will help you can loan you his...?

Let us know when the installation of the new distributor is imminent and we can send you detailed instructions.

Regards,
Henry

[Spool]

Thank you, Henry.
However, with testing aside, I purchased the distributor that I shared earlier which arrived on Sunday and looks sharp.

I'm back from my 4 day hiatus of work deadlines and week 1 of school.
In between that, I've been attempting to familiarize myself with the process of replacing the distributor and the process of timing; all of which I'll take at internet face-value as I would much rather prefer to ask the forum, but it did shed some of the green off from behind my ears I suppose.

However, I do think this video is worth mentioning as it was one of the most straight-forward videos I was able to come across.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wwp9rtTPPJc&feature=youtu.be
Think I can take his advice?

Other videos and websites weren't as informative but they did point to the process of finding Top Dead Center, aligning the rotor to 1, and some vocabulary.

I've attached some photos.
I like the top cap of the distributor.
Other two photos are of my timing tab & distributor bolt which are both very dirty.

My original help has been waiting for his first born; I'll have to grab a nearby neighbor or co-worker.
(Friends don't come as good as they did when I was 17.)

I went ahead and ordered the Innova Timing light BD shared, along with distributor wrench (1/2'' & 9/16'')
Which only really leaves the distributor grease for my purchase order; is it specific like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Distributor-Grease-Gram/dp/B01JKGVEHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518589732&sr=8-1&keywords=distributor+grease
I'll most likely go to AutoZone for this, but wanted to clarify if it was specific to the distributor.

Once again and as always, thank you.
I hope to do this project on Thursday/Friday or this weekend.

With that, what's the first step?
Other than removing the distributor, I'd assume I would need distributor grease to place the new one and a process of finding TDC?

[Henry]

Hi Spool:
The grease you found on Amazon is really for applying on the cam inside the distributor of old points type of distributors. The grease (or heavy oil) you need for the distributor helical gear is the same grease they use on camshafts or engine assembly grease. Tell the guys at Autozone you want the "cam and lifter lubricant" which they should sell in 1 fluid oz packages or smaller. I remember Comp Cams used to be a brand that sold this. If they dont have it, ask for "motor assembly grease" which they may sell in 10 fluid oz tubes. I remember Lubriplate used to be a brand that sold this.

As far as the video is concerned, it is all correct but I quit watching it because the guy was just talking about setting the timing and not the actual replacement of the distributor which I believe is what is critical. If you believe your timing is already correct or close enough for the engine to run, you do not need to find TDC on your engine when you swap out your distributor if you follow the procedure I have outlined below. Read this procedure a day or two before you do it and go to the store. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Since it is long, I have also attached it as a Word file to print out.

Replacing Distributor on small block Chevy V8

1. Clean of the grease and grime from the timing pointer on the engine block. You need to be able to read the numbers and the hash marks next to the numbers. Clean off the grease and grime from the groove mark on the crankshaft flywheel…this is a slot that needs to be clean so you can paint a white or silver line inside the groove. Feel around the entire diameter of the flywheel as there may be a second groove 180 degrees out. Paint a line in both grooves to be sure you have the right groove marked.
 
2. If the engine will start and run, do a timing check to see what the timing is before the old distributor is removed…if it is hard to start or will not start reliably, skip this step.

3. Once the engine is cool, mark all the spark plug wires as to which cylinder they plug into. If you have the original intake manifold, you should see the cylinder numbers cast into the manifold. You should have a pad and paper so make a diagram of the engine and where the cylinders are so you will know how to replace the wires. Use the silver or white pen to mark them all…you can make the marks on the distributor cap.

4. Pull all the spark plug wires off the plugs and release the wires from any wire clips and  making notes of where the clips mount and which wire goes to which clip.

5. Using a long phillips or flat blade screwdriver, push and turn the levers that hold the distributor cap on the distributor and remove it with all the wires attached. The rear lever is hard to get to so you will have to lay on the engine and remove this one by feel. You can look at your new distributor and see how they work. Take a note on your pad about which cylinder the rotor is pointing to (or close to pointing to).

6. Clean off all the grease and grime at the base of the distributor and intake manifold where it mounts. Clean it so that you can access the distributor bolt and so that grit and grime will not fall into the hole once the distributor is removed. It also needs to be clean enough such that you can make marks on the distributor base and intake with your marking pen or white-out.

7. Before removal of the old distributor, mark where the base of the distributor is with respect to (wrt) the intake manifold…you can make a line across both parts on the drivers side opposite the distributor bolt. Make note of where the vacuum advance diaphragm port is located with some other feature on the engine. Also, note where the distributor rotor is pointing…you want to make a mark on the engine somewhere to show this…this is very important…I call this the “installed position”.

8. Pull the vacuum hose off the old distributor vacuum diaphragm and plug the hose. I usually use a golf tee to plug it.

9. Removal of old distributor: the distributor is engaged to the camshaft with a helical gear…so as you pull the distributor out, you will see the rotor turn a bit before the gears are disengaged. You will want to make a mark on the engine where the rotor stops turning when pulling it out…I call this the “removed position”. Also, the bottom of the helical gear on the distributor has a blade that engages with the oil pump driveshaft below the camshaft gear in the engine that you need to be aware of…when you install the new distributor the engagement of this blade and slot in the driveshaft must be made or the distributor will not seat down on the intake manifold. OK, go ahead and remove the distributor bolt and clamp and clean them from grease and grime and set them aside. Pull the distributor out…it may take a little bit of wiggling but once it starts to come out make note of the rotor position of where it has turned to in order to get it disengaged from the cam gear. You can go up and down a few times to see how it rotates…this is the same rotation your new distributor will have to make when installing. Once the distributor is out of the engine, you do not want to crank, start, or rotate the engine for any reason…doing this will lose the orientation of the distributor wrt the crank firing and make it very difficult to time the engine.

10. Take the cap off your new distributor and using the pen mark all the cylinders as on your old distributor cap. Transcribe the mark on the base of the old distributor to the same place on the new distributor. Transfer all the old spark plug wires to the new cap and set the assembly aside for now.

11. Take your old distributor and new distributor and holding them in the same orientation of rotor wrt body of distibutor, flip them upside down and make note of the orientation of the oil pump blade in the helical gear in both…they most likely will be of different orientation…if they are of different orientation, you will need to be prepared to use a long flat blade screwdriver to rotate the oil pump driveshaft by a certain amount to make sure it engages properly….this is in the next step.

12. Install the gasket on the new distributor driveshaft…you can use some scotch tape to temporarily hold it in place on the distributor mating surface. There is not any sealant or grease that goes on the distributor to intake manifold mating surfaces…it is a dry fit with this gasket. Apply some of the camshaft gear or engine building lube to the helical gear of the distributor. Before installation, hold the distributor above the hole and rotate the rotor to the final engaged position….then look under the distributor helical gear and see where the oil pump blade is oriented. Then get a flashlight and look down the distributor hole and see where the oil pump driveshaft slot is located…if it is not oriented such that it will engage with the distributor gear blade, then you must use a long flat blade screwdriver to rotate the oil pump driveshaft to the correct position. You must be careful during this operation so as not to pull the oil pump driveshaft out of the oil pump…just turn it carefully and do not attempt to pull it up or out. A serious problem can occur if you pull the shaft out and drop it into the engine because it cannot be retrieved without removing the oil pan from the engine. OK, once you have the oil pump shaft oriented with the distributor gear blade, go ahead and start to install the distributor with the mark on the base of the distributor in alignment with the mark on the intake manifold it is supposed to line up with. Note that the vacuum advance diaphragm port should be fairly close to the orientation as the old one. As you lower it, hold the rotor in the removal position as noted earlier such that when the gears engage, the rotor will turn to approximately the same position as the old rotor in installed position. You probably will have to spend a few minutes gently jiggling it all around a bit to get everything to line up. You may have to go in and out a few times…be patient. When it finally goes down into place, look down at where the distributor base seats to the intake manifold…if there is a small air gap, that means the oil pump driveshaft slot has not engaged the distributor gear blade. You must pull the distributor back out and slightly rotate the oil pump driveshaft one direction or the other for engagement and then try installing the distributor again. Once the distributor is properly seated and the marks on the distributor base and intake manifold are lined up, the rotor should be pointing approximately in the same position as the old one…if it is way off (say 45 degrees) that means you are off one gear tooth on the helical gears. Remember, you marked what cylinder the old rotor was pointing to, and you can take your old cap and place it on the new distributor to make sure it is close to the same cylinder. Pull the distributor back out and rotate the rotor a little further to one direction or the other in the “removed position” and re-install the distributor as before. Once you are satisfied that the distributor is oriented correctly, pull it back out just a bit to removed the tape on the gasket and then reseat the distributor and install the distributor bolt and clamp. Look carefully to make sure the clamp actually engages the flange on the distributor base as the clamp is slotted and you can tighten it without actually engaging the distributor flange. Tighten just snug for now.

13. Install your new distributor cap (notice it is keyed and will only seat in one position) and wires onto the engine. Engage the distributor cap clamps and route the wires and plug wires into the spark plugs.

14. Timing the engine: Climb on the engine and loosen the distributor bolt just enough such that the distributor can be rotated by hand but is not just loose. Leave the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor unplugged, but verify the hose that goes to it from the carburetor is still plugged. Hook up your timing light per the instructions that came with the light. On old fashioned timing lights, the positive and negative connections simply go to the appropriate battery terminals and the spark plug wire clamp goes loosely over cylinder #1 spark plug wire. At this point you need an assistant to operate the timing light while you rotate the distributor as the engine is idling. You all need to be careful during this operation as the timing light can get smacked by the fan or the wires from the timing light can get snagged in the belts…you need to be careful how you have routed all the wires of the timing light on the engine and the operator of the timing light needs to be careful he does not get his hands or timing light hit by the fan when trying to look at the timing marks. Also, the guy turning the distributor needs to be careful he does not burn himself on any hot engine parts like the pass side exhaust manifold or radiator water lines. I usually have stable boxes to stand on for both people so that they can lean into the engine without having to place hands on the engine to support their weight during this adjustment…all for safety. OK, now set the parking brake and start the engine and leave the transmission in park. Once the engine has started and is idling, one person should turn on the timing light and see where the timing is on the engine. The other person should then slowly rotate the distributor one direction or the other and ask the timing person what is the response on the timing marks. The timing on my 76 truck is 8 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). If you still have the original air cleaner cover to your truck there should be a decal on it with your timing specs. If not, 8-10 degrees BTDC should be a good starting point for the engine to run properly…you can always reset it later when adjusting the carburetor idle. Once the timing pointer is at this setting, tighten down the distributor bolt and verify the timing has not changed. If it changes, loosen the distributor and repeat the process of setting it and tightening the distributor bolt. Once the timing is set and the distributor bolt is tightened, you are done and turn the engine off.

15. Reconnect the vacuum line to the distributor advance diaphragm. Disconnect the timing light and remove all blankets, rags, and tools from the engine bay and take the truck for a test drive. After the engine has cooled down, check the tightness of the distributor bolt (it has to be tight).

Regards,
Henry

[Spool]

Thanks Henry,
I have a handful of questions to start after reading the instructions.
I think I may be able to get to cleaning the necessary spots this afternoon or tonight.

-What would be the best way to clean my timing pointer and crank shaft wheel?
Could I use a wire brush with carb cleaner or grease removal?
(The grease removal product enforces the importance of rinsing the area with water when done; I'm not too crazy about introducing water around the engine. Any tips?)

-When removing my plug cables but keeping them on the distributor, I'll go about labeling them based on their cylinder numbers.
Is the picture attached the correct cylinder order for the block and distributor cap?
(Source for cylinder numbers: http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/how_to/firing_order.shtml)

-To clarify the gasket aspect in step 12; I'll use the same cam and lift lubricant for the helical gear on the distributor around the gasket once it's aligned and seated?

-When adjusting the oil pump blade in the distributor, will I be adjusting anything else that is in unison with it?
If I understand correctly, the rotor moves with the helical gear, but the oil pump blade is independent of any other moving parts on the distributor?

-In regards to cleaning around the distributor prior to removal, would I also be able to use the products in the photos attached with a wire brush? Any tips or other products that would work well or better?

Thank you.

[bd]

Use either one of the products you pictured to clean the timing plate and around the base of the distributor.  Use a small stiff bristle brush and scraper if needed to remove stubborn caking.  No need for concern, hosing off the loose residue left by the motor shampoo.  Just don't direct a stream of water into the distributor or carburetor.

If you have a smartphone, snap plenty of pictures before taking anything apart, so you have references during reassembly.

The process of changing out a distributor sounds more complicated than it is in practice.  So relax and be methodical adhering closely to Henry's write-up.

Referring to Henry's write up, since you have never stabbed a distributor into an engine I recommend rotating the engine to top dead center compression (TDCC) on cylinder #1 and setting the timing mark on the balancer to 0° before loosening the distributor clamp.  This ensures that you begin the job at a known starting point in case of difficulty.  To find TDCC, rotate the engine until the distributor rotor points to the #1 cylinder spark plug wire then align the timing marks to 0°.

An alternative to completely removing the distributor cap and all of the spark plug wires is to just lay the old cap forward with all of the wires still attached at both ends.  Then transfer the wires to the new cap once the new distributor is installed in the engine, one wire at a time.

The oil pump driveshaft is locked onto the oil pump via a stiff nylon collar.  The likelihood of it pulling loose and dropping into the oil pan while removing the distributor or turning the oil pump driveshaft with a screwdriver is very low. 

The distributor gasket should be installed dry, without any sealer.  However, lubricant won't harm the gasket or defeat its sealing function.

The engine firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and is accurately diagrammed in the image you posted.

Lubricate the thrust bearing between the distributor gear and the base of the shaft housing with a few drops of engine oil before stabbing the distributor.

The oil pump driveshaft simply needs to be aligned with the drive key up inside the distributor gear at the base of the distributor shaft.  If you are lucky the new distributor will drop into place without having to turn the driveshaft.  Otherwise, the driveshaft may need to be rotated ever so slightly to engage the distributor.  The distributor should drop into place with little effort once the oil pump driveshaft and distributor shaft are correctly aligned and engaged.  Make sure the collar of the distributor shaft is seated against the intake manifold before sliding the distributor clamp into place around the collar.  Under no circumstances use the clamp and bolt to force the distributor to seat against the manifold!  After the distributor is seated and the clamp is in place, tighten the bolt sufficiently that the distributor will still rotate with light-to-moderate effort.  This will allow you to set and retain the timing until the bolt is fully tightened after adjustment.

[Spool]

Thanks BD,

I returned from AutoZone with no luck on acquiring Cam & Lift Lube or Engine Assembly Grease; they suggested Home Depot.
Would this suffice?
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81950-Ultra-Engine-Assembly/dp/B000HBNVSK

I'm hoping I can get to at least cleaning the the timing tab and around the distributor tonight.
With the current distributor in-place, it would be safe to rinse the area directly with a garden hose? (I'm just skeptical, please excuse my need for double clarification)

After cleaning, my next step is finding TDCC on cylinder 1.
How do I rotate the engine?
Clockwise with a wrench or ratchet from the center of my flywheel? If so, do you happen to know the size of the nut?
 

[Henry]

Hi Spool:
I did leave out one electrical connection that in the step by step process. In step 4, add:
-Disconnect two wire connector plugging into bottom of distributor cap on drivers side of distributor cap.
In step 12, add:
-Connect two wire connector plugging into bottom of distributor cap on drivers side of distributor cap.

I concur with everything BD said.

OK, the assembly lube for the distributor helical gear is not a big deal...you can coat it with 10W-30 engine oil instead.

You can use the cleaners discussed...pick up a roll of those blue shop rags and some Goop hand cleaner. I usually clean off all the discussed engine parts with Simple Green spray solvent and a old toothbrush then give it a quick squirt of water and let it all dry out....you may need to use  the shop towels to dry out the pockets and recesses in the intake manifold. Like BD says dont direct the water directly at the carburetor intake or the distributor....should all dry in a couple of hours or overnight.

Yes, the Impala picture you show is the correct numbers of the cylinders and the firing sequence BD gave you is correct.

Yes, the distributor rotor, helical gear, and oil pump blade are all fixed to the same shaft of the distributor and cannot move independently of each other.

As far as rotating the engine to TDC for #1, I usually mark where cylinder #1 is on the body of the distributor (where #1 wire goes into the cap), then take the distributor cap off (dont forget to disconnect the two wire connector at cap) and "bump" the engine over with the starter until the distributor rotor lines up with this mark...you need to make sure the timing pointer on the crank flywheel comes to the tag with numbers on the engine at the same time...sometimes it misses and you need to do it a couple of times till it comes close. I recall it being pretty difficult to rotate the crank by hand if you dont have a complete tool set...I recall you need a big socket, extension, and long socket handle...a wrench cannot get to the nut as it is recessed in the pulley...sorry I do not recall the size off hand.

Some more notes:
-Distributor rotor rotates clockwise when viewed from top of engine.
-Engine rotates clockwise when viewed from front of engine.
-Dont forget: do not rotate engine when distributor is out!

Regards,
Henry

[bd]

Reiterating...

Specialized lubricant to coat the distributor gear is not crucial to your circumstances.  Just dip the end of the distributor shaft in some clean motor oil right before you install it. 

Think about hosing off the back and front of the engine like this:  If oil isn't leaking out, water won't leak in.  It doesn't require a tremendous flow of water to wash the solvent and surfactants away.  As long as the distributor is in the engine, rinse away.  Remove any puddled water with compressed air or a disposable rag before loosening the distributor clamp.

Professionals use a flywheel spanner to spin the engine using the flexplate...



But, if you remove the spark plugs, you should be able to rotate the engine with your bare hands.  Or, use a wrench/socket on the harmonic balancer center bolt, being careful to not torque the bolt any tighter.  Another method is to insert a large (~18") flat blade screwdriver or prybar between the fan clutch bolt heads and the thick shank of the clutch mounting flange to lever the engine over (assuming properly adjusted belt tension).  Any method you use that doesn't involve a flywheel spanner or 'bumping' the engine over with the starter, remove all of the spark plugs beforehand to relieve cylinder compression.  It makes turning the engine over much easier.

[Spool]

Thanks you both very much.

I'll scratch the whole hose idea and just stick scrubbing, light rinsing and wiping away with shop towels.
Furthermore, oil is leaking out (slowly) somewhere, which is why I was skeptical of rinsing it down.
I believe it's either leaking from the pan, valve covers or rear main seal, but that's an entirely different job and discussion.

BD, I was confusing the usage of oil around the base of the shaft housing (what I understood to be the opening in the block for the distributor) with using
engine assembly grease on the helical gear. I read it as two different things. I have 10/30 on hand and will use that instead on the helical gear and the base of the shaft housing.

I'll remove the spark plugs to allow the pressure from the compression to escape. I got that.

Is the harmonic balancer center bolt the center bolt shown in the photo I posted?
If it's threaded, then I can certainly see the possibility of over torquing or breaking it; so lets rule that out.

Are the fan clutch bolt heads the bolts around the center bolt in the same photo?

How do you use a flywheel spanner? Would I have to talk out the fan clutch bolt heads?

What's the best way to turn by hand?
I found this on the 67-72 forum; one person went under the truck and rotated the fly wheel by hand?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=471806

[bd]

Abandon the idea of using the center bolt to rotate the engine.  There is too much potential for something to go wrong. 

The upper image shows a typical fan clutch that attaches to the water pump at the front of the engine.  Do not remove the fan clutch from the engine.

Remove the spark plugs.  Insert a narrow prybar or large (18") standard blade screwdriver between the center axle (or pedestal) of the fan clutch and one of its four retaining bolts as shown in the lower image, then pull to bar the engine over.  If the belt slips while pulling, simply push against the belt with your free hand to increase tension.  (Note that the lower image is of a different engine and fan configuration than you have in your truck and the fan clutch is removed for clarity).

[Henry]

Hi Spool:
Just to clarify: the helical gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft needs to be lubricated with engine oil but do it just before you put it in or it will drip everywhere and make a mess.

The mating surfaces between the distributor and engine (and the gasket that goes between them) are supposed to be dry...no lubricant and no sealant. This interface will sometimes weep a little bit of oil over time but if your lube it you will definitely increase the amount of dirt and grit that will accumulate at the base of the distributor due to the location on the engine.

Also, if you take the spark plugs out to facilitate rotating the engine by hand, be aware that if you then try to bump it with the starter it will spin much faster.

Regards,
Henry