Throttle cable rubbing?

[travisr1988]

Good morning guys,

A few months back my throttle cable frayed and my throttle got stuck half way open. I ended up using speaker wire to get to work and buying a universal throttle cable to fix it, which worked great until recently. I noticed about a month ago the pedal felt stiff, like it gets stuck and if I push harder it eventually gives but then it tries to go to the floor which makes for fast starts, spinning tires, angry cops, and poor gas mileage, not to mention real difficult in the rain. Upon investigating the issue I found that the cable rubs on the top of the guide that passes through the firewall. The throttle works perfect by hand at the carb, the pedal works fine without the cable hooked up. I tried to reposition the guide to no avail. Has anyone here had the same issue and fixed it? If so, how did you fix it?

[Irish_Alley]

why did you get a universal one? why not a direct replacement?

[travisr1988]

Because there wasn't any one local that had a direct replacement. Even now I have to order and my choices are Pioneer 23.75" and ATP 24". My issue is the new and the original both mount in the same location and no matter how much I push the guide up while tightening it the cable still rubs on the top of the guide, looking at the pedal in relation to the guide it looks like the pedal mounting for the cable us higher than the hole in the firewall for the guide. Yet the original didn't rub and was mounted in the same hole with no angle.

[bd]

Can you post a pic?

[VileZambonie]

If you used an aftermarket cut to length cable, you need to make sure it is the correct length and a clean cut sleeve free of burs.

why did you get a universal one? why not a direct replacement?

Unless you are running a factory setup, you will usually need to modify the factory cable too. The jacket may need to be cut down etc.

[travisr1988]

I'm running 350 with vortec heads with an Edelbrock intake and 1406 carb. The truck had a 250 inline 6 in it before and the throttle cable always seemed to have 2 sharp bends in it making an S shape going to the carb. We had a clean cut and made sure we had no burrs when we installed the new cable, but I noticed last night the plastic behind the bracket was split, so I'll likely buy a new cable, but don't want to run into the same issue.

[travisr1988]

Here's a pic of what I'm referring to.

[Irish_Alley]

im learning on this but does that one have a rubber jacket or some sort of jacket?

[travisr1988]

It has a braided line up to the firewall, then a hollow bolt(?) That goes through the firewall.

[VileZambonie]

You need to replace it. The cable needs to be inside of a sleeve. That is definitely installed incorrectly

[travisr1988]

It is exactly how it is sold in a new sealed package. It's possible there's a sleeve inside the braided line but I'm not positive. It was a universal most parts stores carry.

[VileZambonie]

Okay I looked closer on my PC. That is the interior view. On the engine compartment side it should be inside of the sleeve right up to the cable bracket.

[travisr1988]

In the engine bay it has braided steel over it. I would think there is a plastic sleeve inside of that, but I really can't tell just by looking at it. It was the universal cable you can find at any parts store and I believe the brand was Mr. Gasket. I tried to pick up an ATP factory replacement cable last night, only advance had it nearby and they closed early of course...so if it's fraying again then I'll have to either order one from summit or get another universal to replace it.

[Irish_Alley]

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/accelerator-cable/pioneer-accelerator-cable/23648_778614_0
is the pioneer replacement for the 77 c10 with a 350

[Stewart G Griffin]

Please stay away from pioneer;  They tried, but they just didn't cut the mustard.   

Try to get an OEM GM from a salvage yard or someone may have one.