81 K10 Build

[Mike81K10]

Did a front and rear brake job, There was a dirt dobber nest in the PS rear brake. Had to get rid of the rust and painted the brake parts in brake caliper paint Black n Red. Installed new brake cylinders, brake calipers, brake hoses, Proportioning Valve, and stainless steel brake lines from inline tubing. Have a new brake booster and master cylinder (not yet installed).

[Mike81K10]

Did a front and rear brake job, There was a dirt dobber nest in the PS rear brake. Had to get rid of the rust and painted the brake parts in brake caliper paint Black n Red. Installed new brake cylinders, brake calipers, brake hoses, Proportioning Valve, and stainless steel brake lines from inline tubing. Have a new brake booster and master cylinder (not yet installed).

[Mike81K10]

Installed new tie rod ends and a new (complete) drag link. Also installed a new Moog steering damper. The tie rod ends I purchased were made by Rare Earth. I had ordered moog and those that came in were defective (probably just coincidence), that is when I ordered Rare Earth parts. The tie rod end on the drivers side needed quite abit of encouragement to get out and I had to buy a puller (press) to get it out.

I counted the threads of the old ends and used the pictures to remind myself of the number of threads. I also took about 3 different measurements of the tie rod and ends. Measurements were also taken of the new Moog drag link (no defects- good part). I also had the old one (original with the truck) intact to compare. The new parts went in fairly easy and I torque the nuts down to the required ft lbs, it was about 45 or 50, can't recall off hand.

[Shifty]

Odd, I just did a complete Moog front end, and had no issues. 

[Mike81K10]

Stripped and refinished the radiator support for my truck to include the headlight mounts. Have also been working on my rear window area that had rust through in various spots around the channel. Strange how my front windshield channel was fine with no rust throughs. Will get pictures of that later.

[Mike81K10]

Worked on my rear window that had been rusted out in places, appear to have came from water sitting in the seal area. I cut out the whole window channel and removed the sheet metal rear window channel from a junk yard donor truck. The metal from the donor truck was not rusted much. Was going to do just the needed spots, then I thought the metal was so clean - I would do the whole window. I used zinc weld thru primer on the inside. While I had the are cut out I cleaned, prepped, and used KBS rust seal - not much rust inside. I used internal frame coating in areas that are hard to reach. The new metal fits tight into the area that was cut out and so far I spot welded it on the inside area where it goes on the lip. Ran out of daylight and I still have to weld around the outside edge. Will give an update when more progress is made. Starting this project have given me skills I previously did not know I had. Bought a welder and learned how to weld on my truck. The first was when I fabricated and welded in the Firewall and cowl patch panels.

[VileZambonie]

Looks good. A lot of extra work but will be worth it in the end.

[Mike81K10]

Looks good. A lot of extra work but will be worth it in the end.

Thanks, Your right - it is alot of extra work and it will take awhile for me to complete the welding and grind it smooth. Did not feel I had much of a choice or perhaps I am too picky. After the rear window is done, I can prep and paint the cab and start getting the truck put back together.

[VileZambonie]

A mini-belt sander is a great tool for fast grinding welds in those tight spots

[Mike81K10]

VileZambonie, You have a nice truck and I liked the videos.

Thanks for the advice and thats a great idea and I will look into it, next time I get to Home Depot, Lows, or Harbor Freight. One of the few tools I don't have and have never used one. About three and a half hours ago I started spot welding around the outside edge of the rear window sheet metal (so big - I don't if I should call it a patch panel). I then started to stitch it together and got tired, taking a break with a cold lemonade in the A/C. It is coming together, seems like an eternity though. I really don't have that much patience, so it is a task.

[chazlee]

It does look like you are doing a heck of a re-do..im looking at an 83 4.1L 6cyl swap any info would be appreciated

[Mike81K10]

Hey chazlee! You should look at VileZambonie's truck!

You have to ask yourself what you going to use your truck for? Street rod or daily driver! For a daily driver you can drop in a 350 crate engine or go to a salvage yard and buy an engine and wire harness for a late model fuel injected engine (then you have to redo the fuel system). I am trying to keep my truck some what close to original. I have found a set of OEM Rally Wheels with Caps and beauty rings I am buying.

My truck started as just trying to fix heavy rusted duel saddle 16 gallon fuel tanks and rusted fuel lines and some rust spots in the cowl and firewall. Now, I tore my whole truck apart and have been replacing and repairing everything. So watch out, you might end up doing a great deal more when you get started. Sometimes you come across problems you never knew you had. It would have been easier on me if I have thought out everything before I started. I have had to redo some things because I fixed a few things and then decided to tear apart what I fixed to do a full restoration job.

[Mike81K10]

I completed welding in my rear window frame. Still need to grind down the weld and as VileZambonie said, I will look into a mini belt sander. Was looking online at Home Depot at a Mikita and it looks good. Don't know if I will get it since it is about $250. Might just use my angle grinder since I have plenty of grinding disk. These may be the last pictures until I get more progress on the Cab completed.

[Shifty]

Looking good!

[Mike81K10]

Thanks Shifty!