81 K10 Build

[Mike81K10]

Bought one just like your pick VZ and it would not fill the firewall hole. The hole is about 2" or 2.25" in my fire wall and the boot shown is smaller. I will soon try the one from the salvage yard and believe it will work. It was worth a try and as always I do appreciate your assistance VZ. Will attach some pick to show what I mean soon.

I am back and have some picks. I also worked on my hood hinges and Springs, as well as my dash speaker mounts. I previously had painted them all in black and decided to paint them to match the rest of the truck. I my redo my wheel wells from the black to red as well, have not decided for sure yet on those. As you can see from the picks, the online purchase of the Brake Booster Rod boot did not work out so well, had I used it my cab would have been flooded out. The boot from the salvage yard was a perfect fit, nice and water tight.

[Mike81K10]

Installed some small things and did some parts painting. The OEM factory screws that holds the accelerator to the firewall was loose. They have a course thread and did not hold well. I removed them and used 3/16" stainless bolts and used a washer and a lock nut on them. Solid now!

Has anyone else thought the accelerator cable is a little too long by about 3 to 4 inches (cable just over 15"). It works, just does not look right. Have a picture of it and the nuts on the three bolts from the peddle assembly.

[bd]

The smaller bolts should work since there are three.  An alternative is to install steel nut-serts seated in red Loctite and use the original diameter bolts.

Some of the original throttle cables seemed a little long.  But, better to be slightly long than to be too short such that engine movement tugs the cable and forces runaway RPM and loss of vehicle control or a collision.  The real problem is that aftermarket cables are one-size-fits-all so that fewer cables service a greater number of vehicles; not-to-mention inferior materials used during manufacture.  Runaway capitalism!   

Your truck is coming along nicely.

[Mike81K10]

The three bolts were the same size as the screws. Weather was nice today and I managed to bench bleed the Master Brake Cylinder (actual BBQ Grill Bled it - Clamp on the handle) using a Philips screw driver with a rubber block off cap on the tip then installed it. Will try to get the lines hooked up tomorrow. However, will need to get some more brake fluid first. Don't want to run out while bleeding the brakes. Trying to get as much done as possible prior to installing my fenders and hood so I will have more room to work and to prevent scratching it up.

Also cleaned up the passenger fuel tank metal lines. Soaked them for a few days in denatured alcohol and ran a cleaning line threw them. Appears I got them clean inside. I also installed a few minor parts today.

[Mike81K10]

Got the last of the brake lines hooked up to the master cylinder and proportioning valve. Decided to use Dot 3&4 by Valvoline for my new brake system. Got the brakes bled today. However, it was not without problems. The lines to the proportioning valve and the barrel nut that is close to the fuel tank selector valve was leaking and had to be tightened up. Thought they were tight and discovered you have to get them torqued pretty good to keep them from leaking. Made a couple of brake bleeder bottles and started with both rear and then worked front.

[frotosride]

Looking good! Brakes are always fun. One lesson I've learned and has served me well is tightening down flaired fittings, backing them off and repeating 2-3 times especially when any new component is added. Gotta let them get to know each other really well!

Curious about the proportioning valve you used. What brand is it? Does it have a small hole with a star washer pressed in on the rear proportioning fitting?

[Mike81K10]

I will attach the information on the valve. It was exactly the same as my original OEM that came with the truck when originally sold. I removed the brake warning light connector and put in a bleeder screw in plug that I purchased when I bought the valve. My old one actually worked. I just decided to replace it since every other brake part was changed in my system.

[frotosride]

That looks the same as the CPP and POL one, may be the same manufacturers. Either way pay close attention to the machined hole in one of the flats for the rear outlet. If there isn't some sort of seal then you're probably good. If there is one then it is a tale-tale with a high failure rate. Your first few test drives will likely give you the go-no-go. If it is the same style and starts leaking it will not stop even if you never touch the brakes again.

Truly hope this doesn't happen to you but I'd hate to see paint ruined when it could have been prevented.

[Mike81K10]

Do you think the proportioning valve I have may fail? If so is there one that is of better quality and more reliable out there?

[frotosride]

I cannot tell exactly by that pic you posted. Does it have a small hole with a star washer pressed in on the rear proportioning fitting? If it does then there's a very good chance that weep hole will start leaking. Just keep an eye on it. When it happened to me my warranty was up because it sat in a parts pile for too long waiting to be put on. I tried everything to stop it. I even peened over the small nipple in there just to get by till I replaced it. I'll look and what I replaced mine with. If the brakes are good and you have a vacuum pump of some sort then go outside and give some emergency breaking stops. May not be a bad one. Keep in mind I'm basing this off of one thing.
*Does it have a small hole with a star washer pressed in on the rear proportioning fitting?

[Mike81K10]

*Does it have a small hole with a star washer pressed in on the rear proportioning fitting?

Don't think it has the star washer pressed in and I got a better picture. Had some problems today when I took off the bleeder plug to put the one that is supposed to go on with the wire connector. Had to remove the Master Cylinder #1 line to get the plug unscrewed. Lost some fluid out the line and it was hard to push the connector on. Was thinking my lines may have been a little difficult to tighten because they are stainless steel. May have to bleed the brakes again later to ensure there is no air in the lines. However, I may be good, since it was the Master cylinder line. Then I had to wash everything up with soap to get all the fluid cleaned up. Glad I have not installed my fenders yet.

I organized and fastened down the lines and can finally go on to other tasks. Did start putting in switches today as well.

[DanMcG]

The truck is looking good! Where did you get your brake lines? and how did they fit?

[Shifty]

Shame on you Mike, re-building your truck to perfection, and not steel-wooling your power steering lines....

[Mike81K10]

Thanks Shifty! I tried to clean them but did not think about steel wool. I will try to do that!

[Mike81K10]

Prep'd and painted the kick panels, ran some wiring, Speedo cable, and some other things. I had to fabricate a seal for the fuse panel at the firewall, where they connect together. It took awhile, had to fab the pattern and then the rubber seal. Wish these parts were available.