Squeaky Drum Brakes & A Terrible Mechanic.

[JohnnyPopper]

ft/lb 

[Spool]

Well, that works out well considered my torque wrench maxes out at 80!

I’ll buy a larger one down the road. (Pun intended?)

[Spool]

Hey guys.
Is there a right/wrong way to place the drum back, or do you just push/tap it on and then the wheel holds it in place?

[JohnnyPopper]

Usually not, unless there is a screw holding it.

[Spool]

Okay. To say I'm not intimidated would be a lie... Ha, but good to stretch my comfort zone.
I went very slow and shook the truck quite a bit to ensure it was stable.

However, I got stuck at the axel bolts. Perhaps, I need to put the tires back, drop the truck and loosen them as well?

Pictures attached of everything.

**Edit** I forgot to add... I placed one extra piece of wood (which are all screwed together as one piece) on the driver's side and the jack is also one notch higher than the passenger's side.
I did this to get the truck level as best I could by using the leveler seen in one of the photos. Silly or okay?

[Spool]

Also, it's worth noting... I really hope this problem didn't transfer to my differential and then my driveshaft.
I drove to the food store today to stock up before pulling the truck apart and on one occasion, the truck shook so badly when coming to a stop that I felt a knocking beneath my feet.

[frotosride]

Way better to be safe than injured or dead especially when you new to this.
I see you went with the 6ton big red's. I've used them for years without a problem. One thing to remember is to bend the small tab on the side of the red base. It's up towards the top and keeps the post from coming out if you use them as a handle or turn it upside down. I think it even shows this on the directions.

Highly recommend putting the tires back on and lowering the truck to break those bolts.. I think that was mentioned earlier.

[Spool]

Thanks Froto.

The hammering of the pin was indeed in the instructions, I just held back on that step for now and only carry them from the base for now.

I must have misunderstood the prior instruction- I didn’t think I had to remove the Axel bolts.

In the morning, I’ll redo it and then remove the drum again.

Thanks Froto.

[frotosride]

Don't be intimidated by what you're about to do. Just take pics every step of the way,keep them and post them. Unfortunately, you have one of the best axles ever produced and this process is a little more involved than say on a 10 or 12bolt. But I have faith you can get it done!

The axle and hub has to come off the spindle to get the drum off.
I know there's a great write-up on this forum that'll help you. I'll try and find it and post it here.

[Spool]

Thanks a lot man.
Just new terrain for me is all, but I’ll keep it slow and steady as I’m dealing with all this weight.

I’ll post pictures tomorrow around noon PST showing the inside of the drum before I proceed further.

One of the best axels ever produced? I hope it’s not damaged! Is the backing plate separate from this Axel if the backing plate needs to be replaced?

Also, is there a ‘housing unit’ in any of this, or did my terrible mechanic just make that up?

[frotosride]

The backing plate does separate from the axle when you get to that point.
It is a highly sought after axle especially in the offroading community. It's tough so severe damage isn't likely. I wouldn't be surprised if it just has the shoes improperly adjusted.

Housing unit... Well depends how old he is. He may be referring to the differential housing, which has the carrier,ring and pinion in side or he could be referring to the axle hub housing on the spindles, which you will see soon.


I did read back through the thread and Vile did state that you don't have to remove the axle shaft bolts so you didn't miss read that. I also have no idea how to get the drum off without doing so.

Thanks Froto.

The hammering of the pin was indeed in the instructions, I just held back on that step for now and only carry them from the base for now.

I must have misunderstood the prior instruction- I didn’t think I had to remove the Axel bolts.

In the morning, I’ll redo it and then remove the drum again.

Thanks Froto.

[Spool]

Cool. We will find out...
His words were that he had to machine the drums and press the housing unit into them.

I’m very close to walking back over there to collect a full refund if I find he was making stuff up or did absolute garbage work.

My neighbor took her old 90 something Toyota pick up there after me for a brake job... he fixed the brakes but then the car wouldn’t start.

[frotosride]

He may have had to remove some casting flash from the center to get the drum to slide over the axle hub. But when you say the same thing like this " I had to machine the drum to fit the hub', it surely sounds more sophisticated and worthy of an extra charge! Just saying.

[Spool]

Boy, am I ever so grateful you guys and this forum exists.

[VileZambonie]

I did read back through the thread and Vile did state that you don't have to remove the axle shaft bolts so you didn't miss read that. I also have no idea how to get the drum off without doing so.

That is not what I said. I said that you do not have to remove the axle bolts before removing the wheel. Removing the axle before you remove the wheel is a good way to get get gear oil all over your wheel and make a nice mess before you even get started. If you don't have an impact, just break them loose first, but you shouldn't remove the axle bolts until you have your catch pan under the hub and are ready to get started.

You do not need to remove the axle bolts before you remove the wheel. Since you are investing in tools, some recommended items are:

Cordless impact, (I prefer Milwaukee Fuel) or an air impact if you have a compressor.
Torque Wrench - 250lb-ft
Brake Spring Tools
Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Socket
Gasket Scraper

Here are basic steps:

1. Remove wheel.
2. Remove axle shaft and axle shaft gasket (if used) or clean off RTV sealer.
3. Bend tang of lock washer away from the outer lock nut and remove the outer lock nut, lock washer and inner lock nut.
4. Remove outer wheel bearing.
5. Pull hub and drum straight off axle housing. If brake lining is dragging on brake drum, back off brake adjustment by rotating adjustment screw.

REAR WHEEL BEARINGS ADJUSTMENT

Before checking wheel bearing adjustment, make sure brakes are fully released and do not drag. Check bearing play by grasping tire at top and pulling back and forth or by using a pry bar under tire. If bearings are properly adjusted, movement of brake drum in relation to brake flange plate will be barely noticeable and wheel will turn freely. If movement is excessive, adjust bearings as follows:
1.  Raise vehicle until wheel is free to rotate, then remove axle shaft.
2.  Disengage retainer tang and remove retainer from axle housing tube.
3.  Torque adjusting nut to 50 lb ft while rotating hub assembly. Ensure bearing cones are seated and in contact with spindle shoulder.
4.  Back off adjusting nut until just loose.
5.  Insert key into adjusting nut slot, if equipped. Install snap ring to retain key in position.
6.  Lower vehicle, then install axle shaft.

Axle bolt torque: 90 lb/ft
Wheel nut torque: 120 lb/ft