Squeaky Drum Brakes & A Terrible Mechanic.

[frotosride]

I did read back through the thread and Vile did state that you don't have to remove the axle shaft bolts so you didn't miss read that. I also have no idea how to get the drum off without doing so.

That is not what I said. I said that you do not have to remove the axle bolts before removing the wheel. Removing the axle before you remove the wheel is a good way to get get gear oil all over your wheel and make a nice mess before you even get started. If you don't have an impact, just break them loose first, but you shouldn't remove the axle bolts until you have your catch pan under the hub and are ready to get started.

Vile, I gotta regrettably say thank you for proving my wife right... Now even I know all the words go in to this lump above my shoulders.. that doesn't necessarily mean all of any of them get processed...

[JohnnyPopper]

Oh, man... This is both comforting and painful to read, Jon.
Nice to know I'm not the only and also, I feel your pain.
You've basically described my issue to a T... the intermittent issues, the heat, the smell... It's a mess.

I will also say, I'm a bit intimidated. As much as I look forward to this job, I really need to keep it under the $775 I've been refunded.
Your description of replacing Axels or brazing the landing is also intimidating at the moment.

However, I did start this thread by saying I'll do my best to keep my emotion out of it...
Yet, while watching only less than an hour of drum brake material I've learned there is no 'housing unit' to be 'pressed into the drum.'
Thus, my mechanic was just talking to talk... I'm pretty upset. If this project ends up costing me more than $775, I may walk back over there
and try my hand and getting the full refund with a remainder of $900 for the other 'work' he did while mentioned the better business bureau.
I'm not the type of guy to cause a fuss, but I feel completely had and spending $1,600 doesn't come easy for me.

1st, what is the landing? Are we talking about the backing plate shown here in the picture attached?
(And if so, how much we talking to be replaced if needed?)

I thought this was the axle he was talking about

[Spool]

Okay. Now I’m here...

I’ve bent back these tabs and some appear to be missing, but how do I get this outer ring off?

I don’t need to buy this socket tool do I?

[JohnnyPopper]

It's good to have that tool, hope you have access to one.

I bought one at NAPA for my front end, they have a variety.

[Spool]

I don’t.
Edit*** Johnny, are you saying I need this tool to proceed? If so, what is it called and are there different sizes?

[Spool]

Ah... I see it now. Vile posted it earlier... Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Socket.

Sorry, Vile - this is kind of a new language for me.

Does anyone know what size socket is needed?

[Spool]

Alright. I’ve called Autozone, Oreillys and Pepboys but I can’t confirm what size I need.
It measures at 2.5” and has six notches. I think I found it here?

The service manual doesn’t specify the size of the socket that I can see, but it does beg the question if I have 10-1/2” or 12-1/4” axels.
This is my daily, so I'm trying my best to get this done as soon as possible- if anyone wouldn't mind giving me a little bit extra help, I can be texted at 213.604.5436

I’m gonna continue to search the web for now.

[Spool]

Found it?
https://www.amazon.com/27046-Bearing-Locknut-Socket-Trucks/dp/B08R17PZHG/ref=sr_1_23?dchild=1&keywords=wheel+bearing+lock+nut+socket&qid=1617391891&s=automotive&sr=1-23

[VileZambonie]

Any auto parts store should have it sitting on the shelf.

[VileZambonie]

I did read back through the thread and Vile did state that you don't have to remove the axle shaft bolts so you didn't miss read that. I also have no idea how to get the drum off without doing so.

That is not what I said. I said that you do not have to remove the axle bolts before removing the wheel. Removing the axle before you remove the wheel is a good way to get get gear oil all over your wheel and make a nice mess before you even get started. If you don't have an impact, just break them loose first, but you shouldn't remove the axle bolts until you have your catch pan under the hub and are ready to get started.

Vile, I gotta regrettably say thank you for proving my wife right... Now even I know all the words go in to this lump above my shoulders.. that doesn't necessarily mean all of any of them get processed...

I think we all just have a switch that changes channels when the women start talking 

[Spool]

Any auto parts store should have it sitting on the shelf.

You would think, but I called NAPA, Autozone, Oreillys, PepBoys and Harbor Freight. Half don't know what a Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Socket is and NAPA/PepBoys didn't have any in stock.

I just bought the one on Amazon and it should be here tomorrow.
So, I lost a day, but at least I didn't Uber all around LA in the heat racking up taxi costs with a face mask on... 

While we're at it-
I'll proactively buy a strong torque wrench.
What else should I proactively start eyeballing? Diff fluid?

[Spool]

Took the drivers side apart while I wait for the new tool to let the diff fluid spill out.

Should I be concerned about the health of these tabs? Or rather, can I continue to use them in the condition they’re in? This is the drivers side.

This is the passengers side

[JohnnyPopper]

As long as they have usable tabs that can lock the nut down when you reach your desired torque.

They're pretty soft, so some break off after years of servicing.

If many are broken, look for replacements.

[Spool]

What is considered useable and how many should be in tact? The ability to bend them into place after I torque it into place without them breaking?

[JohnnyPopper]

Yeah, so they are keyed around the locking nut to give you flexibility on where you tie/lock the nut down.

You get the torque you want on the nut, and move it more  or less to the nearest tab/indent and bend the tab so it locks the nut to keep it from getting loose.

Over the years mechanics will not be careful when lifting the tabs to service the (fill in the blank) and they BREAK.

You will see jagged edges and notice that the tab will not reach it's desired indent.

If you have a few good ones you're pry good to go. If not, find replacements.